Sofirn SC21 Pro

LED Flashlights – General Info
4

i got an SC21pro about 2 months ago and the tint seems fine

i would notice blue or purple

it;s a good neutral white

i dunno what LH315D is, or what mine has

it was stock from amazon

5

> i dunno what LH315D is

that is the name of the LED used in the SC21 Pro
the Tint dot is above the curved black line, that is considered the green side of the line: (but there can be green and greener, the duv number quantifies the position of the dot)
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here it is after changing to a 519a LED
the Tint dot is below the curved black line, and also a slightly warmer color temperature
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The SC21 Pro is a great little light, and can be improved by changing the LED, but many people are not as obsessed with these details as I am… LOL

6

i don;t think that is worth it, your mileage obviously varies!

7

I never had any issues with ’351s.

Yeah, they get more green (relatively) at lower levels, but either I won the tint lottery time and again, or it doesn’t bug me that much.

At higher levels, I’d say they’re no more green than, say, 219Cs.

Also, some highly-lauded SSTs were hideously green to me.

8

I’ve been using my SC 21 for a few weeks now and really like it. I’m not yet quite used to the switch but overall I am glad it’s in my pocket as my EDC. Have thought about changing to anduril 2 but it does what I need and then some.

9

SC21 Pro is the light I gift to muggles, because of the built in charging.

However, I do not love sideswitches, even though the one on the SC21 Pro is better than most, as it easier to find, both by feel, or by sight, than unlit and smooth side switches. (really dislike the SP10 Pro switch)

My personal preference is for the TS10. I prefer tailswitches, do not need magnet. The TS10 is the same length but more slender than SC21, and the TS10 weighs 10 grams less correction, 8 grams less, which to me, matters.

here are some photos of the TS10 LEDs… imo they are quite nice:

I presently EDC a White MAO TS10 w the 5800K LEDs. If you decide to buy, avoid the black ones on Amazon, buy from Wurkkos.com because the latter have been updated to the latest firmware, that adds LVP to Aux…

10

How is your white anodizing holding on?

11

I love it. At first it had a slightly chalky feel, but it is now smooth. It does show dirt (I consider it patina), but it also comes perfectly clean again, by wiping with alcohol. Zero problems with the finish wearing off. I have been using it clipped to a pocket (with nothing else to touch it). I have not dropped it, nor scratched it.

Here it is after an alcohol cleaning:
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whats not to love?

I honestly do not understand why the MAO has a reputation for not being durable. My research indicates it is actually superior to Hard Anodising. MAO is twice as resistant to abrasion. Maybe Im mistaken and in a little while the MAO will wear off… but so far, Im really enjoying it.

12

Hmm, I didn’t realize the TS10 was lighter and smaller, I do like that. While I do like the magnet and side switches in general, I may have to give this a try. And thanks for the tip on the Wurkkos store, less expensive than the jungle and the latest FW. I’ll likely give the TS10 a try!

13

I rechecked the weights…, both w battery and clip as pictured (clip on TS10 is from Lumintop EDC05, for deeper carry):

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14

Looks like starting tomorrow they’re offering a brass version for $27.99. The next day’s my birthday, so I think I know what’s coming . . . .

I suppose the downside to brass may be the weight though . . .

15

It’s much nicer looking than the black. I really like the look only afraid that it will look bad in long term.

16

I do not think it is as thick or durable as anodising. I did a test with a piece of soft deerskin leather. I rubbed the whole MAO light, briskly, and intentionally rubbed the corners of the bezel on the leather, firmly. I can now see shiny aluminium just along the very corner edge of the bezel… The MAO wore off…

so yes, Wurkkos is right to say that the MAO coating is not durable.
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here is an enlargement from that pic:
You can see the machine lines on the MAO, whereas the anodising is thicker, and hides those lines.
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I do think the reason the light with MAO no longer feels chalky, and feels smooth instead, is because the coating is wearing off. I recommend buying one of the anodised colors, if durability is high priority.

17

Thanks for your test. Yes it seems very clear now that the MAO is really not that durable compared to normal anodising.

18

It was just a few months ago that I first heard of MAO/etc and did some research, then was able to see in hand a few different products that had that finishing process. It is remarkably more durable and “better” in many ways than either type II or type III anodizing.

IF……big IF

…it is done correctly. I don’t know about Simon’s or Hank’s finishes but clearly the MAO application in Wurkkos’ lights is just not being done right. Could be the factory they are using (don’t think they are doing it themselves in house), possible that it’s just not an experienced factory or there are cost saving choices that didn’t pan out. But it’s probably important that we collectively do not judge the technology itself by this failed example of poor process/application.

I think it’d be great to have this on lights and the items I had in hand were impressive in that regard. It’d be nice to have the darker colors as well, instead of the cream/white. I passed on buying the Wurkkos and will pass on buying the Convoy models until people report that it’s a good finish (the data Simon shared when asked sounded erroneous…could very well be the same factory or process that Wurkkos used). I’m willing to pay a premium for a better more durable finish, but only if it’s actually more durable. Right now we’re seeing a premium added for a finish that not only isn’t more durable but seems to be far less durable than standard type II anodizing. It can be done right, and when it is, it’ll be great to have.

I should note that my samples of this were from US processors…probably doesn’t make any difference there other than the fact that they did it correctly. The technology is good.

19

Well, the return period is nearing its end and my relationship with the switch hasn’t improved. Seems like I get lots of missed clicks or unintentional double clicks. I’m returning to try another SC21 to see if its any better. The replacement SC21, and a Wurkkos TS10, are both expected in a few days . . .

Hope my perception of the SC21 improves, else I’ll have the TS10 to fall back on.

20

my switch is great, never a false activate

and i like the feel and the lighted button with 3 different modes

though i would like it to be a battery meter, that is impossible

21

I also like the lighted switch and the feel of the switch. I’m hoping that particular light just had a flaky switch.

22

What modes work in SC21 Pro? I just got one from sofirn store but nothing works except on/off, ramp switch, battery check and lockout. Is this how it’s supposed to work? It’s not in muggle, I’ve tried turning that on/off but nothing changes.

23

Your light probably has Anduril 2 and shipped in Simple mode, so use 10H to get to advanced…

Info based on an SC21 Pro I just received yesterday…
I made note of the factory default settings:

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SC21 Pro STOCK settings out of the box:

6C does nothing in Anduril 2,
there is no Muggle mode toggle because the light shipped w Anduril 2.

turns on in simple mode,
I can tell because batt check only reports one time, 3.7V out of the box

green button light is on low
memorized output is set to 170 lumens
smooth ramping
floor at 1.6 lumens
10 minute hybrid memory
double clic gives 900 lumens momentary maximum w the battery as shipped, at 3.7V (iow simple ceiling is set to 150/150)

advanced settings, do 10H from OFF to get there:
floor 0.3 lumens
smooth ramping
10 minute hybrid memory
memorized output set to 170 lumens
ceiling 860 lumens (120/150 at this voltage is about equal to “Turbo”)
turbo 890 lumens (batt at 3.7V)
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Suggested changes, done from Advanced mode:

  1. Change the memorized output (lower). (the light is on Hybrid memory, you have to wait for it to time out, after 10 minutes, to see the memorized output is working)

  2. Calibrate the thermal sensor
    (mine was reading 7 Celcius too high)

  3. suggest lower the simple mode ceilings (stepped and smooth ceilings are adjusted independently) to 120/150 (personal preference. I prevent fast draining the battery by not using Turbo in simple modes)