Sofirn SC31 PRO, New Anduril Flashlight

[Tom_E]

Whoada. That's some nice equipment!

[Nachtfeuerzeug]

@Tom E

Whoada. That's some nice equipment!

Haha! I was thinking the same.

[Nachtfeuerzeug]

Edit of #199: As many know, the A6 clip is great for clipping to a cap visor, too... I might be changing my clip preference!

Ok, this is a picture of all my favorite clips & EDCs with an SC31 in there somewhere. (L-R, Emisar, EagleTac, Convoy, A6 & Nitnumen)

[Sivy]

Here is my clip solution , It is a silver clip I had in the parts bin , it is exactly the same as the standard black clip but in plain stainless steel , Not sure where it came from? Maybe off another light or Banggood??.
Cut it down and reformed the end for a reasonable shape ,I quite like it ,would prefer a deeper pocket fit I guess , What do you think?

[Nachtfeuerzeug]

That looks good! It looks like it may have been a Sofirn clip.

[TimMc]

@Tom E

You could though leave it like I have it to re-program. You can get access to the MCU this way. The FET is somewhat buried behinf the USB-C connector.

Is it possible to pull the driver down and attach a SOIC8 clip to update Anduril without removing the bezel for the reflector or desoldering?

I managed to remove the rubber switch cover with my fingers and then used circlip pliers to remove the switch bezel.

[TimMc]

@amishbill

Now it’s time for the scary part. Blindly jamming bits of metal into its brain.
…

SP36 head disassembly / reflash -- non-destructive? (ReFlashed! Didn't Break! - much-)

I’ve had some success and a tiny bit of failure, so here I am. I managed to get the switch and driver out. In the process I lost the tip off a dental pick. All in all, a fair trade I think. The tools I used: A pair of weird, long needlenose with rounded tips, a dental pick, and a medium-stout S hook. [image] A little bit of careful convincing with the needlenose and the switch ring came right out. Holding them square and keeping outward pressure on the jaws made it fairly easy. Tip - try rot…

Notes for flashing the SP36:

SP36 head disassembly / reflash -- non-destructive? (ReFlashed! Didn't Break! - much-)

GENERAL NOTES:: This is not a ‘For Dummies’ step by step. You’ll have to follow some links and understand a few things. I hope these details help you get over some of the rough patches and uncertainties I ran into. If you can get something attached to the battery ring to pull the driver, consider it. Getting the switch out is annoying. Getting it back in properly (and straight!) is also quite annoying If you have access to a vice, consider rounding a nail and bending it like you see in some o…

Could the same be done with the SC31 Pro? :student:

I.e. Press down on the positive wire?

[SammysHP]

@TimMc

Is it possible to pull the driver down and attach a SOIC8 clip to update Anduril without removing the bezel for the reflector or desoldering?

I managed to remove the rubber switch cover with my fingers and then used circlip pliers to remove the switch bezel.

You know, the usual way is the other way around: First unscrew the bezel, then remove the switch cover.

Yes, it should be possible. I will try it with a pogo pin adapter when I have time.

[Ryzbor]

Does this light have a fet reduction in the firmware like the Emisar D4 with Nichia leds which has the fet limited to 80% if I recall it correctly?

Full fet for the SST40 seems a bit like overkill.

[darosk]

Does anyone know where else can I get the 18350 tube? Sofirn shops seem to be out of stock.I messaged their CS and they said maybe 2 weeks before they restock.

I could just buy an sp40 I guess, but that seems excessive. Even if it is a good deal of a light.

[SammysHP]

@Ryzbor

Does this light have a fet reduction in the firmware like the Emisar D4 with Nichia leds which has the fet limited to 80% if I recall it correctly?

Full fet for the SST40 seems a bit like overkill.

Full FET is OK if the resistance of the circuit is high enough.

It uses the firmware of the SP36 so it should have full FET. I just checked it with the scope and it is indeed fully enabled.

[Ryzbor]

@SammysHP

Full FET is OK if the resistance of the circuit is high enough.

Good to know. But I guess it’s not very efficient then.

[Tom_E]

I'm not clear on exactly what the questions are above, but the stock wires appear to be ~24 AWG and are too short to pull the driver out and get a SOIC-8 clip on the MCU. My plan would be to replace them with longer 22 AWG's - think it should fit and allow the re-programming without de-soldering the LED wires. The switch wires appear to be just long enough to allow this, as shown below:

[TimMc]

@SammysHP

You know, the usual way is the other way around: First unscrew the bezel, then remove the switch cover.

lol

I tried to remove the bezel with circlip pliers first but I slipped and scratched the bezel. I then just tried to rip the cover out with my fingers and it worked. :innocent:

[TimMc]

@darosk

Does anyone know where else can I get the 18350 tube? Sofirn shops seem to be out of stock. I messaged their CS and they said maybe 2 weeks before they restock.

Wait 2 weeks and buy from their official website?

If you want an SP40… it’s a nice way of getting an extra 18350 tube.

[TimMc]

@Tom E

the stock wires appear to be ~24 AWG and are too short to pull the driver out and get a SOIC-8 clip on the MCU.

Thanks! I was thinking of trying to push a SOIC8 clip through the switch hole to reach the MCU as a backup plan to avoid soldering. I’ll probably end up swapping the emitter anyway… but it would be useful for those who just want to update/change Anduril.

To be able to pull the board down to reach the MCU, would you need to do the following?

• Remove the bezel with some straps, a vice and heat
• Desolder the 24awg wires from the PCB with the LED
• Pull the board down by pulling on the spring

[Tom_E]

@TimMc

@Tom E

the stock wires appear to be ~24 AWG and are too short to pull the driver out and get a SOIC-8 clip on the MCU.

Thanks! I was thinking of trying to push a SOIC8 clip through the switch hole to reach the MCU as a backup plan to avoid soldering. I’ll probably end up swapping the emitter anyway… but it would be useful for those who just want to update/change Anduril. To be able to pull the board down to reach the MCU, would you need to do the following?

• Remove the bezel with some straps, a vice and heat
• Desolder the 24awg wires from the PCB with the LED
• Pull the board down by pulling on the spring

This is close to what I did, but:

• removed the bezel by clamping the head in a vise, cushioned by pine boards (no damage)
• either I used my sticky blue gloves, or used a strap wrench - seem to recall it came off fairly easy, no heat used (sorry, I mod a lot of lights and lose track of details, and had no notes)
• de-soldered the LED wires form the MCPCB
• using a solder pick, pocked it thru the Batt+ LED wire hole in the shelf, try to feel I'm not sitting on a chip, applied steady pressure til breaking the glue bond holding the driver in
• then pulled the driver down by the spring

You really can't fit the clip thru the switch hole, plus the MCU isn't right there to access.

Finished my mod today:

• replaced the 24 AWG with longer 22 AWG wires (so I can re-flash without de-soldering)
• replaced the stock 6500K SST-40LED and 17 mm MCPCB at 1.5 mm thickness, with a 5000K SST-40 on a 16 mm Noctigon (slightly thicker at ~1.6 mm)
• sanded the shelf MCPCB contact surface out to 2500 GRIT, applied fresh MX-4
• tossed the set screw used to keep the stock MCPCB from turning (Noctigon didn't have the cutout to support it)
• re-flashed with Anduril2
• 22 AWG bypasses on the tail and driver spring

It now measured 8.1 amps on a 35E cell at 4.20V. Max lumens and throw is about the same as the stock light did on a VTC5D cell. For the heck of it, tried a 25S at 4.17V and read 9.0 amps, only about 75 lumens higher.

The lumens on the 35E initially is 2310 (Tom E), 2040 calibrated. It drops pretty quick. It really is more amps and heat then the SC31 Pro can handle.

The 5000K tint is an improvement, least from what I recall...

[TimMc]

Thanks for the detailed write-up!

[TimMc]

Would it be fair to say that the SC31 Pro isn’t easy to reflash with a newer version of Anduril unless you remove the bezel with force and desolder some wires to get access to the MCU?

@Sofirn: Please add pogo pads near the spring

[Tom_E]

Yep! At least though you don't have to replace the driver and lose charging, like I've done on many other lights .

Totally agree - if Sofirn goes with an open source driver, they really should make the effort to make it flash-able, now that we have a method to do so with the pogo pins.