Thank you for your help, I’m more or less clear about Anduril versions, I thought you were talking about versions of the SP10 Pro flashlight. So to be clear, you only talk about Anduril versions, and not physical versions of SP10 Pro. Im I right?
hey guys, question.
Did anyone bought the magnetic tail for SP10 pro?
My magnetic tail doesn't work.
The spring is just a friction fit, no solder. The magnet is held by some weak glue/tape.
I tested tail with multimeter, and there's continuity between the spring and the tube contact place.
Then I tested the tail with the tube, and there's no continuity between the spring, and the tube end.
So it seems, that the SP10 pro tube, just doesn't make any contact with the tail.
I just looked at it one more time, and the original tail, when screwed, leave small gap between the tube lip, and it.
But the magnet tail, just screws till it hit that lip, and then it can't go any deeper.
So the problem is that the magnet tail is too long, on the thread side, and just hit the anodized tube lip, without making any electrical contact to the tail.
As in the pictures above, there is original, and magnetic. Orginal bottoms out on tail, and make contact. The magnetic bottoms out on the tube lip, and doesn't make a contact with the tail.
Does anyone have the same problem?
I have three with magnetic tail caps and all of them work well and none screw down all the way to the lip. I think you may have a defective cap
kokosnh, have you put the spring below the small flap under which is placed the magnet, or did you put the spring above that flap?
If it doesn’t sit below that flap the issue may be a very tall magnet!
@shirnask So I see I'm again unlucky, eh...
Ps. I have the no glued version of the sp10 pro.
@MascaratumB the spring is OK, it sits in it's place.
The problem is elsewhere, as the tail cup just hit the tube lip, and I can't screw it deaper, to make the contact with the tail...
I was looking for information on how the light operate. Not the flashlight itself.
If you’re looking for a comparison of the SP10V3 VS SP10 Pro, This may help.
Thank you for helping me. I thought there were two hardware versions.
Tried a quick search but couldn’t find the answer. Is there any nylon belt holster for the SP10 pro?
Update
I had to order through liionwholesale. Illumn only accepts PayPal.
Thanks for the links.
Hi Jackie or whoever else Sofirn employee is there. Any idea why you are not producing a 2700K version of the SP10 Pro? You could do a limited run and see how much demand there is for it, I am sure quite a few of us are waiting for such a version. A red SP10 Pro in 2700K with 90CRI, I am sure I would buy in a heartbeat!
A slightly shorter version with TIR and 1x 519a would be awesome.
Did a quick swap to 519a 4500K
Much nicer. Still considering a dedome, but it might be too pink for me at that point.
Just a smooth reflector would be fine too.
Short head, short tail, and it would make a good EDC. It’s too long to sit comfortably in my pocket. So yes, a TIR and a flat tailcap would be welcome.
Does the colors look like the pictures in person or slightly altered?
If you want to learn how to do the LED swap yourself, here is a photo album showing the process:
You can also hire someone to change the LED for you.
It is not very pink… here is the difference
Dome On:
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Dome Off
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Jon, I don’t share your experience
This was my result dedoming 4500k
Locked to 4500K but in person it was that pink. Entirely too rosy for me
Thanks for the photo. You might like 519a 5700K Dome On (on left) 
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Here is Opple comparison of the 519a 5700K compared to daylight where I am. You are located 30 degrees closer to the equator. That may be part of the reason we like different tints ;-):
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Sounds like you have a defective unit. Note that it might not be the tailcap. It could be the back of the tube is too short.
It might be a good idea to test to make sure that the tailcap contact is the problem.
- To test, take off the tailcap and insert the battery,
- bridge the edge of the body tube to the back of the battery with something conductive like long-nose pliers.
- Attempt to turn on the light. If it works, then tailcap contact is confirmed to be the problem.
Assuming the contact between the tailcap and tube is the problem, rather than returning it, there is a simple fix:
- Cut a small piece of something conductive, such as bare wire, copper solder braid, even part of a small paperclip.
- Bend your conductive material into a “C” ring and fit it into the bottom of the tailcap to act as a spacer between the tailcap and the tube.
- Alternative, you can cut sheet copper or brass into a washer shape to accomplish the same thing. I recommend cutting your spacer slightly large so it locks behind the tailcap threads and is less likely to fall out.
This fix should solve the problem and give you a working light.
Thank you Jon_Slider, great information there but looks quite daunting to me! I could pay someone I guess to make one for me, but including the astronomical postage from the USA, I think I will have to make do with my poor cousin version I have put together using Lee Zircon filters…