Great idea, I’ll try this. I have some scrap aluminium sheet about 3mm thick, I’ll put it in a vise with the candle underneath.
I’ve reflowed LEDs before, but only had a 70% success rate. Often the LED “floats” on the solder and I need to use tweezers to press it down and squeeze the solder out from underneath. Nobody else seems to have this problem, so maybe it’s just me :+1:
Unless you apply the perfect amount you will usually have to press to squeeze solder out. It requires WAY less than you think especially if you are leaving on the factory solder. Use leaded solder also.
The blink at the top doesn’t bother me. I would like a 5700K choice.
My thanks to all concerned,
SP10 Pro is a really great little torch. The fact it runs
very nicely with a Japanese Eneloop icing on the cake.
oops hogwash ;-)-Only thing I needed to get used to is not pressing the charge cover
in darkness and wondering why the torch does not switch on.
I pointed the clip to the charging port so now feel for the position
and find the switch more easily.-
sorry, too many new torches and foggy old head.
That is not a factory option, but you, or someone you hire, could change the LED.
Here is a photo tutorial showing the steps and products needed for an LED swap:
You must mean some other light, as the SP10 Pro does not have built in charging, so no charging cover.
watch this part of the video:
As contactcr said, use less solder/paste, also you can use a Qtip to press the led down, it’s a bit gentler than tweezers
I’ll post pics of the success/disaster when it’s done 
You really only need a tiny, tiny amount. I usually give mine a little ‘boop’ with a qtip and the excess will spill out the sides. You can then clean it off, but if the amount is miniscule (literally just dots) then its fine to leave it on.
I’ve never felt the need to add solder to the first, and often second, reflows for a stock MCPCB. i.e. there is enough solder leftover on the board for the new bare LED to mount without adding more solder.
If the LED is brand new I wouldn’t trust reusing only factory solder especially if the light has some direct drive mode(s). I’ve done it before where old solder was on both LED and PCB but I put some flux paste between it before reflowing and it seems to help mix solder without overheating the board.
[quote=contactcr]
agree that might be enought for the OP to rebond the broken solder joint to his LED… but… since the joint broke, I would use new solder paste to avoid a repeat of the broken bond.
The magnetic tail has arrived. Now he’s much better.
It is strange, why they do not immediately put it on this model …
Congrats on your new SP10 Pro w magnetic tail option.
fwiw, gchart sells a very nice reflashing tool for SP10 Pro, IF you want to get rid of the blinks at top of ramp.
The tool also works to reflash TS10, if you happen to get one of the first run with the older firmware.
Thank you.
Nothing flickers, everything suits me.
Thanks for the suggestion.
…
My question as well, Sofirn offers magnetic tailcaps as a separately purchased option for several of their lights. Offer it as part of a “kit” or “package” and charge appropriately.
It’s an odd thing. One might say it’s to sell more piecemeal items, but they’re so cheap… why not just put it in the original package and increase the price by the 50c or $1 or so that they’re asking?
I mean, I’m sure there are folks who specifically don’t want magnets in their lights, but I’m willing to bet that they’re a fairly small percentage of the flashlight enthusiast population.
I replied earlier saying I’d give this a shot with a piece of aluminium plate to ‘spread the heat’. Didn’t need the aluminium, just held the MPCB over a small candle with tweezers, worked an absolute treat! Thanks!
Congrats on a successful reflow.
I float and bop 
Floating is desirable, it means there’s enough solder.
Watch Vesture’s video from about 6:20 for a couple of minutes for a good demonstration. He ‘bops’ out the excess solder around 8:10, this works better with larger, heavier LEDs but is trickier with smaller, lighter LEDs.
(Obvs you can watch the whole thing, there’s good info in there showing different heating methods.)
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/39482
I use a cotton bud or a little piece of soft wood for bopping but fingers and tweezers obvs work too.
Not satisfied with the stock clip (it’s not ‘lippy’ enough to go over jeans easily), I had a rummage in my spare parts box… The Astrolux/BLF/ EagleEyes X5 Clip fits almost perfectly!
The X5 clip is less sleek than stock clip, due to the more aggressive bends- I also widened the top slightly to allow the clip to fully slide over the seam on the top of the pocket, and bent the clip towards the body more to ensure it holds firmly.
3C from lockout unlocks the light
Hi members, using and loving my SP10 Pro for quite a time now but just discovered this weird behavior (at least to me). 3C unlocks the flashlight. Unlike 4C that turns the light on, 3C flashes and takes the flashlight to off unlocked.
Is this how it’s supposed to work? Would you please try this?
After some reading I just discovered that this is now part of Toykeeper’s Anduril 2 User Manual, so answering myself yes, it’s normal. But haven’t seen this before. Not mentioned in the delivered printed manual, nor in the cool diagrams posted in this groups.
Detail from Toykeeper’s current definition:
