Just got mine - wow, great job Sofirn and everyone here who helped! I got a red one and it had a little glue. A heat gun and rubber gloves opened it right up. I put in an SST-20 3,000k.
I agree with everything that’s been said, e.g. bad clip, button could be better, etc. But aside from that, this seems like a winner.
One thing I haven’t seen mentioned - this would be a great bedside table light. With auto-lockout you get foolproof access to an incredibly low mode with no chance of blinding yourself or others. Granted, most any Anduril light would be great for this purpose but the moonlight here is lower than I’ve seen on most lights.
My quest for pieces to mod the SP10Pro when it arrives hasn’t stopped.
I am looking for an alternative bezel, as I think the SP10 could have been done shorter in that case and could have used a TIR.
I tried some of my lights and so far only the bezel from my Manker E11 fits.
Has anyone tried different bezels there that fit/lego?
Any hint would be nice.
I also inform that other AA flashlight hosts such as the Wuben E05 and the Manker E11 won’t be able to accomodate the SP10 driver without major mods (may not fit even after that). I have an old SP10A driver, that has the same overall structure and for one of another reason, it doesn’t fit well on those lights.
I believe it could be battery related. Unlike the larger battery sizes, we seldom call on a 14500 battery to deliver more than 3A so high-drain current hasn’t been an issue, until now.
I went through my cache of 14500 cells, there are probably more in some stored lights but these were handy.
Most were capable or 2.5-3A but only the two on the right went far above (5-7A). Even then neither would hold it very long before stepping down. I couldn’t tell you if it was the Anduril temperature, battery sag, protection circut, or some combination but I wouldn’t be comfortable running 5A through a tiny 14500 light anyway, I have larger batteries/lights for that purpose.
Unfortunately I don’t have meter to measure brightness, nor a V3 to compare.
Unfortunately it doesn’t :cry:
When I took that photo it was merely to indicate an ideal length (for me) for the SP10 (when the project was still being discussed), and comparing it with other AA lights.
The FWAA and FW1AA’s bezels only “sit” on the threads, they don’t screw/unscrew.
Nor does the one from the Eagtac D25C, as example.
OIC, my bad didn’t read the entire thread. Strange behaviour indeed. Variability with FET?
I don’t have a V3 but fwiw my SP10A w/Anduril (using gChart chip mod) on turbo draws comparable to the SP10 Pro over 3A using the same capable battery. I can’t read output though.
Got mine in today! It is the greenest LH351D I have ever seen! They also forgot the magnetic tailcap, really wanted that for work. Found it was loose in the bag and fell out when I opened it.
Overall, it is a really nice light. Button does not feel bad at all, ramping very smooth and so far the light does not seem to spike brightness at turnoff. Runs great on a lithium primary as well… but clip really sucks. Going to have to modify the tailcap for use with FWAA clip, or epoxy the stock clip in place.
Forgot to mention that mine is glued up very tight, still have not gotten it apart. Usual methods have failed, guess I will try some heat next.
Finally got into it! Added some 803 filter to it for the time being and looks pretty good now. Also, heat shrink on the body tube clip groove was to thick and scrunched around when putting the clip on, but heat shrink on the arms of the clip works pretty well.
No…would be folly to try. If the ears were maybe 3mm wider then you could alter the holes in the clip and just maybe have enough room to drill for screws, but it would be very, very little meat and I’d expect it would crack or tear out with use. You’d also have to grind down the circumference of the screws and poke them out from the inside of the ears, using the nuts on the outside (and trying to tap this thin soft metal would be a bad idea, too, considering the leverage on the clip).
I put a band of the more plasticky battery shrink wrap in the clip groove to see if that would reduce the ease with which the clip rotates - not much, but it looks neat (red wrap on a green light). Some regular rubbery electrical heat shrink would be great if you have some in 20mm or better (just the cheap 2:1 typical stuff…the 3:1 will likely be too thick after shrinking).
Has anyone swapped the magnet in their tailcap? Mine seems pretty weak for the size, 12mmX2.5mm. I just do not have anything in that size and was not sure if anyone had tried an N52 yet. My magnet was held in place by a drop of what appeared to be super glue, like an idiot… I took mine out, measured it and put it back in with good super glue. Not likely to get it back out now.
So I think I ordered the last red one on AE, they took my money so let’s see if they really still have that last red one.
As for clips, did someone tried a clip from another light? I was thinking X5 or Utorch UT01 or so, these 2 I have myself and actually never clipped to something and both having a decent clip so might see if I can swap these clips.
I tried swapping in the bezel from an FWAA onto my SP10 Pro. It fit perfectly. The threads seem to be identical in all respects. The bezel screwed all the way down securely. The top of the threads in the head did not hit the shorter bezel.
Someone had previously posted a picture showing an FWAA bezel on an SP10B and pointed out that the FWAA bezel sat on top, but the threads did not engage. However, the difference is that poster used the earlier model SP10B, which uses a slightly narrower bezel and different threads. This isn’t an issue with the SP10v3 and SP10 Pro which appear to use identical bezel threads to the FWAA.
I haven’t tested it yet, but I suspect the mod would also work the other direction. It’s probably not hard to swap the bezel, star and reflector of an SP10v3 or Pro into an FWAA to convert it to an FW1AA. The only permanent mod needed might be drilling some new driver wire holes in the shelf.
Patiently waiting for mine to arrive. Ordered from AE and AE decided to use Pitney Bowes as the US carrier to handoff to USPS. Pitney handed off to the wrong USPS office so now the package is going to bounce around for a few days before it’ll arrive at my local USPS for delivery.
Mine was ordered on the 14th but hasn’t been shipped yet.
I asked Barry if it can be related to shipping issues related to the Covid-19 restrictions, or something else, but I haven’t been answered yet.
