Might suspect that they’ve pulled them from sale so they can reflash the firmware with the latest correction mentioned here, or perhaps some other problem.
Could be they just sold out and never updated the “in stock” number.
I never got around to placing an order, but noticed the counter said “46 in stock” right from the very first day someone linked to it on this forum last week, and every day since.
the red version is sold out from sofirn website, is it coming back ?
I’ll bet within a month there’ll be totally debugged versions offered with a respectable selection of emitters.
I think I’ll just hold my fire for a bit.
I’ve got some numbers for you. Not sure if they make sense, but that’s what I’ve measured with my clamp meter. Would be great if someone can verify my results.
Current about 1s after turn on in turbo (relative brightness in percent).
| SP10 V3 | SP10 Pro
-------------+--------------+----------—--
Eneloop | 6.4 A (34%) | 7.4 A (34%)
Sofirn 14500 | 4.7 A (100%) | 3.0 A (78%)
Interesting that the Pro has lower current and output on Li-ion, but higher current and identical output with NiMH. This doesn’t feel right, but I’ve double checked all measurements. Both batteries were freshly charged.
The 14500 difference makes sense to me from a visual perspective. I returned both defective V3’s I had, so don’t have a direct comparison, but I remarked to myself the first time I fired up turbo outside that it seems like my Pro does not have the output the V3’s did.
What happens if you set the end of the channel 1 PWM values to 0? On some drivers, turbo output is higher when only the highest power channel is enabled. I’m not sure if the same thing happens with SP10 though.
The NiMh values are not at all what I would have expected to see…
Might not be much help, but I noticed a 219b in the V3 with fully charged 14500 seemed to make it look angry. Haven’t had time to follow up, but it seems to ‘roughly fit’ with your measurement of 4,7A (always thought 4A was the limit for a 219b).
Okay so my USBASP https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B06XYV162N has arrived and I’ve purchased some pogo pins to solder and hot glue into a usable tool to flashing my SP10 Pros. Anyone got a starter link for me please? I’m not sure which of the guides for other flashlights best relate to it and I specifically need to know what the 3 pins on the SP10 are so I can solder them to the right points on the USB adaptor. Then if there’s a guide to flashing from Windows that would be super appreciated.
I hate to break the news to you, but while that programmer is correct for the older MCUs like almost any Anduril or Narsil light to date, that is NOT what you need for the SP10 Pro.
You’ll want a USB to Serial TTL adapter like these (just one though). And you’ll need to merge the TX and RX pins using a Schottky Diode (preferred) or a ~4700 Ohm resistor as shown here
I feel like I’ve written about this a lot, I’m sorry if this is the first time you’re reading it.
As far as software goes, you’ll want to make sure you have Python installed with Pip (the python package installer). Pip is used to install the pymcuprog package which is what you’ll actually use to do the flashing.
Additional info here
1 Thank
Ahh thanks very much. I also have a couple SC31 pro that I’m looking to flash so I’ve been looking at guides for them mainly so that’s why I purchased the USBASP. I thought I’d start on the SP10 pro as the contact points are easier to access. I’ll buy the new adapter for the SP10 pro if I have to but I have PL2303HX USB to TTL RS232 COM UART Module Serial Cable Adapter for Arduino https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263864494229 that I used once to mod an ISP locked modem router for WRT firmware. Would that be suitable?
Yes, that should work. I believe SammysHP successfully used a PL2303.
The thing to watch out for is if there is an RX LED inside for some reason, you will likely need to disable that (cut it’s trace or remove the LED/resistor) as the LED interferes with the signal.
Thread ownership transferred temporarily to gchart. As soon as Lux-Perpetua is ready to take over again just let me know. Thanks a lot!
Does anyone have an Astrolux A03 to compare it with the SP10 Pro side by side, or give some info on (comparable) dimmensions etc?
Thanks in advance 
Before I purchase a 3rd sp10pro. Will sofirn release a bare aluminum or non ano version?
Not exactly but FWIW here’s a screen capture from one of The_Flasholic excellent videos. showing an SP10S against the A03. The A03 appears shorted but thicker.
1 Thank
Thanks pc_light I might have missed that video.
Seems, indeed, to be thicker, despite this perspective always change the look of the objects on each extreme.
I found this video in which they don’t seem much different, but there is always a margin for smaller differences.
Again, thank you for the reply :+1:
Anyone know of any TIRs for SP10Pro? Ones that don’t need to be shaved or cut down preferred.
Just tried it, no difference. I’m not able to get more than 3.0 A through this light.
-#define PWM1_LEVELS _PWM1_LEVELS_,_PWM2_TOPS_
+#define PWM1_LEVELS 1,2,4,6,9,12,15,19,23,28,34,41,48,55,64,3072,1960,2372,1476,2097,1572,1920,1570,1777,1524,1646,1454,1286,1369,1234,1115,1011,918,837,894,823,759,702,650,603,560,522,487,455,425,398,374,351,330,310,292,275,259,280,265,251,266,253,240,252,240,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,0
yes
https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/u3fjgc/nednmd_sp10_pro_sst20_with_convoy_20_tir_manker/
> that don’t need to be shaved or cut
no, that link describes modification
there is also this link
https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/u52w10/nmd_sp10_pro_with_tir/
that describes a much easier modification