Sofirn SP10 Pro (AA/14500/Andúril 2) - now available!

[jon_slider]

@ToyKeeper

@jon_slider

if I use 1H from off, to minimum, and then turn off w 1C. I wish the light could come on at minimum when turned on again, using 1C from off.

I think what you’re looking for is this part of ramp-mode.c:

uint8_t steady_state(Event event, uint16_t arg) {
    ...
    // turn LED on when we first enter the mode
    if ((event = = EV_enter_state) || (event = = EV_reenter_state)) {
        ...
        // remember this level, unless it's moon or turbo
        if ((arg > mode_min) && (arg < mode_max))
            memorized_level = arg;

By changing one line, you could make it work as you described.

(FWIW, BLF won’t let me insert a double-equal, so I put a space between)

thanks… care to coach me on how to find that file, modify it, and incorporate it into the hex file?

Im in the dark… lol

[ToyKeeper]

@jon_slider

thanks… care to coach me on how to find that file, modify it, and incorporate it into the hex file?

I’m not sure what platform you’re using. If you’re on Windows, I’d recommend setting up an instance of Debian under WSL. If you’re on MacOS, I’m not sure what works best, but IIRC it involves some brew installs.

Once the Debian-like environment is running, the setup is something like…

• sudo apt install build-essential gcc-avr avr-libc binutils-avr avrdude brz
• brz branch lp:~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/anduril2
• cd anduril2/ToyKeeper/spaghetti-monster/anduril
• ./build-all.sh sp10

However, on this particular light, since it uses the new attiny1616 and support hasn’t been merged into common avr-libc packages yet, it’s also necessary to grab some code from Atmel before compiling. The Atmel DFP is available here, and some extra details on the process are in the repository’s README file.

You’ll also need the hardware for reflashing… which is again a little tricky for this light because it isn’t well-supported yet. Flashing kits aren’t available from Sofirn yet, but gchart is working to fill the gap in the meantime.

The hard part is the bootstrapping, basically. Once you have things set up to build and flash firmware, making changes to the code is relatively easy.

[jon_slider]

Thanks! once I get the 3 pin DooHickey from gchart, I will have a Homebrew and use my iMac to catch 3Pythons with a Pip and a Dude, so I can Hex them with a Reflash…

Meanwhile, I made the change you suggested to 1H from off to only give minimum, which is now Ridiculously Low! Amazed I am…

proceeded to mod SP10 Pro to 519a… dedomed:
.
pic is a link to a modding album and previous LED output

@djozz

@jon_slider

How is the dedomed beam in your SP10 PRO… any shadow rings in the spill?

The beam is perfect

I agree, sort of. I ordered a Tir to try next.

the dedomed 519a has a dimmer spill and tighter hotspot, than the stock LED and the domed 519a

[undefeated]

Think sofirn will offer e21a after using up their lh351d stock? E21A 5700k seems to be better

[thefreeman]

Sofirn said in the past that they can’t source Nichia LEDs from their distributors, I don’t see why they couldn’t order directly from Nichia but whatever. In any case the E21A wouldn’t be suitable due to its lower current capabilities and pretty bad tint shift in a reflector.

[Deluminator]

Hi everyone, Just opened up sp10pro. I can’t seem to figure out how to activate manual memory?

Was there a revision to the A2 manual memory

[Unheard]

@Deluminator

Hi everyone, Just opened up sp10pro. I can’t seem to figure out how to activate manual memory?

10H, wait for the two flashes, release the button, then wait for the rapid flashings. After that, turn the light off.

While rapidly flashing, you can enter the minutes for an additional mode memory. E.g., three clicks mean the light will keep the last mode in memory for 3 minutes, and after that it will use the manual memory (called hybrid memory).

I had to try it a couple of times until it worked.

[jon_slider]

@Deluminator

I can’t seem to figure out how to activate manual memory?

It is 10C from On in Advanced.

The reason I thought it was not working when I set Manual Memory, is because the light comes with Hybrid Memory enabled. I had to wait 10 minutes without using the light, to see it turn on at my preset Manual Memory.

Waiting 10 minutes to use my light bugged me, lol

So I turned off the option for Hybrid Memory time.

I also turned off Manual Memory because I use the light on the nightstand, and I want it to turn on at the last used mode when I went to bed. Hybrid memory wont let me do that, and Manual memory wont either, unless I want to remember to do 10C (I resist multiclicking unless I have the manual in front of me). Plus during the day I dont want the light to come on at my bedside brightness… so I just use Automatic Memory. Fortunately A2 has a gazillion options, to suit almost any use case scenario…

[Unheard]

@jon_slider

@Deluminator

I can’t seem to figure out how to activate manual memory?

It is 10C from On in Advanced.

10C sets the level for manual memory. Does it automagically also activate it?

[jon_slider]

yes, from On in advanced, 10C sets the manual memory, and it is active. BUT, so is the default 10 minute hybrid memory timer.

so if you do 10C from on, and then change levels and turn the light off. It will NOT come on at the Manual Memory unless you wait 10 minutes. Its a feature, that bugs me… because I cannot verify the Manual Memory is enabled, unless I stop using my light for 10 minutes! LOL!

I got tired of using my phone to set a 10 minute alarm, when I want to confirm if my Manual Memory is working…

the issue is caused by the default 10 minute Hybrid Memory setting, that the SP10 Pro comes with. It arrives with an 8 lumen Manual Memory plus the 10 minute Last Mode Memory. Changing the Manual Memory, does not change the 10 minute delay.

[Unheard]

Aha!

I had some strange problems deselecting hybrid memory. Tried again and again until it eventually worked. Maybe the counter was still active despite having it set to zero.

Alternative explanation: I made a mistake. Not sure.

[jon_slider]

the easiest way to turn off the Hybrid memory timer, is to turn off Manual Memory… works for me… LOL!

true confession
I experience FOMO when I change the default settings…
but I know I have to overcome the peer pressure and learn to stand on my own principles…

[Deluminator]

Thanks Unheard & jon_slider, got it!

10c to Default hybrid manual memory, threw me off. thanks for the advise to get from hybrid to standard manual memory.

I can see hybrid manual memory as a nice feature. For me in the future

[ToyKeeper]

@Deluminator

Hi everyone, Just opened up sp10pro. I can’t seem to figure out how to activate manual memory?

Yeah, as people mentioned… the default config is:

• Manual memory level: ~8 lm
• Memory timer: 10 minutes

So it uses automatic memory during use, but after being off for 10 minutes, it resets to the saved level of ~8 lm. This gives it the benefit of automatic memory, without requiring the user to remember between sessions. It uses a predictable brightness at the beginning of each session.

When you change the level, it doesn’t change the timer. This has confused a lot of people, because they didn’t realize the timer was enabled, because no other Anduril light has used this type of default config.

With other Anduril lights, the default was 0 and 0 (manual memory level 0, timer 0), which makes it use automatic memory only. Saving a non-zero level would then make it use manual memory with a timer of zero, meaning it resets to the saved level immediately on each power-off.

TL;DR: If anyone wants the SP10 to always turn on at a manually-saved level, set the memory timer to zero. Otherwise, it won’t return to the saved level until it has been off for 10 minutes.

[CRC2]

I dont know if this is needed, but maybe it will help someone.

Using Anduril 2 on My Wurkkos TS21. (Only Anduril 2 light I have atm)

In Advanced Mode

Set Manual Memory - With the light on the brightness you want to save, Click 10x

Turn Off Manual Memory - With the light ON, Click 10x holding the 10th (10H) and release when it “buzzes” (looks kind of like a low lumen “strobe”) Then click once more. The light should flicker to indicate success, and return to its last ON state.

Turn Off Manual Memory Timer / Hybrid Mode - With the light ON, Click 10x holding the 10th (10H) and release on the second “buzz”. Then do nothing until the light flickers and returns to its last on state.

Set Manual Memory Timer - With the light ON, Click 10x holding the 10th (10H) and release on the second “buzz”. At this time, each click of the button sets a timer for one minute.
(Clicking the button once would be a 1min timer. Clicking the button 10x will set a 10min timer.) After youre done clicking however many times you want, stop, the light will flicker and return to it last ON state.

[djozz]

I measured some light and currents at the lowest modes, the light ran on an Eneloop.

Lowest mode at the simple UI: 11mA, 0.13 lumen
Lowest firefly, measured by clicking at lockout: 4mA, 0.004 lumen

So that low mode is already not very efficient at 9 lm/W (at high modes this light should be about 60lm/W but I did not measure it), and that is because most current goes to running the driver chip and only some to the led. The firefly is lower even: 0.8 lm/W.
So as with all flashlights the lowest modes are inefficient because the driver chip current makes out so much of the total current. Btw, the parasitic driver current of Anduril lights is relatively low (only 2 or so mA) because some attention went into it by Toykeeper minimising it, many other lights are much worse.

What is interesting, is the runtime at these low modes on Eneloops, that should be 7 days for the low mode, and 20 days on firefly.

In theory, if the light would have no parasitic current and would run at 0.004 lumen firefly (you could arrange that by replacing the driver by a simple current-limiting resistor and using a 14500 li-ion cell that has no self-discharge at all ), the battery would run for 2000 years before empty.

[SammysHP]

I did some measurements of the standby current today. On average it’s about 40-60 µA, depending on the battery voltage. It looks like the voltage is boosted for the ATtiny if the input is below ~3.7 V.

Everything was measured with a ~100 Ω shunt resistor.

Li-ion above 3.7 V: More or less flat line.

Li-ion 3.65 V:

Li-ion 3.55 V:

NiMH (different scale!):

Btw. I’ve noticed that I got a different 14500 cell with the SP10 Pro compared to the V3. The button of the new one is bigger and has slots from the folding while the old one has a smooth button.

[ToyKeeper]

@djozz

What is interesting, is the runtime at these low modes on Eneloops, that should be 7 days for the low mode, and 20 days on firefly.

In theory, if the light would have no parasitic current and would run at 0.004 lumen firefly (you could arrange that by replacing the driver by a simple current-limiting resistor and using a 14500 li-ion cell that has no self-discharge at all :innocent: ), the battery would run for 2000 years before empty.

Yeah, the firefly mode is nowhere near as efficient as, for example, the button LED on a Q8. Part of that is because it needs a boost converter to step up the voltage, and part is because it needs to have the MCU running to generate a PWM signal.

So the firefly mode only lasts a few weeks on the SP10 Pro. It doesn’t have the usual long runtime of Anduril’s aux LEDs or button LEDs, which typically last several years per charge.

[jon_slider]

@ToyKeeper

So the firefly mode only lasts a few weeks on the SP10 Pro.

Sounds excellent to me!

random clip lego,
FWAA clip… no light

needs a wire ring in the tailcap,
to make contact w the body tube

.
ring is a bit oversize but secure

[Verodin]

Makes no sense… 46 in stock and sold out at the same time.