It really is. This alone would be reason enough the replace the original driver in the v3. If the pro driver ever becomes available separately, could use a few.
I think what you’re looking for is this part of ramp-mode.c:
uint8_t steady_state(Event event, uint16_t arg) {
...
// turn LED on when we first enter the mode
if ((event = = EV_enter_state) || (event = = EV_reenter_state)) {
...
// remember this level, unless it's moon or turbo
if ((arg > mode_min) && (arg < mode_max))
memorized_level = arg;
By changing one line, you could make it work as you described.
(FWIW, BLF won’t let me insert a double-equal, so I put a space between)
Interesting, mainly from a more shallow reflector perspective (compared to the SP31). Too bad they didn’t use the opportunity to add LVP. No CRI specified, so probably same low CRI as the non-pro version (according to a reddit comment). And available in black, red, green and blue. Just not all the same store grmbl…
Only 1 way to find out for sure and that’s order one. So that’s what I just did. Red and extra 15% off is good enough for me. That’s a 67% discount (which should be taken with a MASSIVE grain of salt).
It does state ship within 15 days, so they’re probably not actually produced just yet.
If there is a LDO then yes, a voltage divider connected to an ADC pin is needed, if not then the MCU just read the voltage on its VCC pin, a single cell FET+7135 driver (e.g. SC21pro) doesn’t have a LDO so there no hardware requirements.
This showcases how hard it is to create the perfect UI, as this is definitely an individual preference. I actually really like that it doesn’t remember shortcut to low, as it gives me more flexibility in my shortcuts.
For example, if I’m camping and have my light at maybe 10 lumens while doing things outside, then switch off to use the shortcut to moonlight for putting the kids to bed in the tent, when I come outside again, my lights goes right back to my previous level with a single click.
It’s probably worth trying though, so you can customize things further and each person can have things exactly how they want. That’s kinda the point of making it open. One of the UI’s main features is the ability to change things at a deep level and completely customize it.
Because, when this stuff was getting worked out like 5 years ago, that’s what people wanted. Shortcuts to min, max, and mem… with min/max not interfering with mem. So that’s how it works. To reach the lowest level from off, hold the button for half a second. There’s even an option to not ramp up afterward, to make the timing easier.
Same thing for the mid-ramp blink. People wanted to know when a meaningful change happened in the underlying power circuitry, like when it goes from an amc7135 chip to a DD FET. So it has an indicator for that. But it’s only used on lights where it’s relevant… and on the SP10 there is no meaningful boundary like that, so it has no blink.
Received my green version today. Looks beautiful, matches the green C8F anodizing that I bought many months ago except that the SP10Pro looks a hair lighter in some lighting because of its smoother surface finish.
Had to clean this up a little more than I’m used to with Sofirn. Some grease on the driver ground ring, fair amount of machining dust and swarf in the threads of the head/tube and head/bezel, but soldering looks good from what can be seen without removing the driver. Lots of tiny nicks in threads and a couple outside the light…maybe they got in a hurry to push these out (the nicks aren’t super noticeable unless you’re inspecting the light up close). Beam looks great. Temperature was off by three degrees (I never count this as a fault for Anduril lights, though). I’m not a big clip user but I have to say that this clip borders on junk and will probably disappoint most. It rotates extremely easily and will pull off the light without a lot of persuasion, so even if you like the bend design you may be searching for a different clip to install. Not really digging this button choice but it’s not terrible…if for no other reason than good looks, I do plan to craft a square washer like djozz did. For those worried about pocket activation, taking advantage of lockout with the double option of moon or low momentary modes is a very nice and practical feature…and four clicks is fast & easy to remember.
So far after playing with two 14500 (H10 and Vapcell gold), and a Eneloop Pro and a Powermax Pro NiMH, I have to say that I’m really impressed with this light, and having Anduril on it is wonderful. I do not see the blink thing when turning it off thus far, in any way that I have tried to make that happen, using any of the cells. Unless this was happening behind the scenes before it was mentioned by users on this thread, I don’t think that Sofirn would have been able to flash a corrected version before shipping….so what gives? If it shows up then I’ll figure out how to flash…and big thanks to you guys for putting your noggins together to work out a fix that’s working for others! I’m curious why it doesn’t seem to be happening for some lights, though.
And another big hats off to gchart for making this little beauty happen! I think this really is a notable and unique light in the market.
Also, if anyone wants to add a magnet to the regular tail cap, it can be done with one of the T2 rings from Simon or the ones I tried from a different vendor before coaxing Simon into sourcing the ones he sells now. Those are 12x16x4 magnets. They sit just a little proud of the ears on the tailcap, and they are a tiny bit loose around the center post - that may leave the magnet more prone to breakage if you are careless with it (but the space does leave room for thicker glues or epoxy for a little more grip and cushion). The ones I previously bought were thinner at 2mm and sit a bit too low in this tailcap but could perhaps be shimmed with a homemade spacer (or you can glue two of them together as I did at first…they are a bit easier to break than the 4mm however).
probably true if you speak command line, or Linux…, its geek to me…
Im up for the challenge though, so, I will Embrace the Bytes
Ive spent the day downloading things Ive ever heard of, using an app I never use, to install some kind of snake, and his friend Pip, to have some homebrew with a dude… along with a firehose of new ingredients for an Alphabet Soup :student:
I got all of that loaded into terminal, no idea how it all works, or even how to find it again, yet…
I did manage to get the no ramp 1H option enabled, along with several other options… its been an entertaining day reading manuals
I just keep coming up with more options I wish I could control, to make the UI more like the D10… which ramps up then down with 1H… I like that… its predictable… I like predictable… lol
My SP10 PRO is working great… Loving it… thanks to all who made it possible.
fwiw, the D10 predictably always ramps UP from first turning On, but it always reverses to ramp down on the next 1H… the same as Anduril, except Anduril forgets to reverse the ramp direction after less than 1 second. That is inconsistent.
I will try to learn to Flash my SP10,
right now this link to Anduril 2 is not working:
See, I like this feature. My other Anduril lights do this as well and I like it. Basically gives you three immediate aaccess modes. Click for medium, hold for low and double click for high on top of the anduril functionality.
well… glad you like it… I dont… if there was an Option to do either one, that would be good.
fwiw, I do understand that the shortcuts create 3 modes from off, however, 1H is not consistent, when ON there is no 1H shortcut to minimum. So there are really only 2 modes from ON… memorized mode, and ceiling.
On the basis of some early adapter feedback I can report that my copy -
Runs smoothly and correctly reports voltages for Alkaline (1.5V), NiMH (1.4V), primary Lithium (1.7) and rechargeable Lithium (4V). If fact its something of a battery vampire because it still ran on the levels 1&2 of 7 using a 0.9V alkaline.
Turns Off immediately with no ramping down or flashes.
Lower range is buttery smooth compared to my modded SP10 Andruril version. Switch button is more firm and less prone to accidental activation in my pocket compared to earlier SP10 models but will still need some form of surround to truly minimize unintended activation.
However, I lost on the emitter tint lottery, it might be LH351D 5000K 90 CRI (Right side in photo) but is not as neutral as my DA0GF4RTS6 (Left side in photo).
A little minus green applied to the SP10 Pro (on the right) will do until I can get my hands on one of those Nichia 519A.
All in all still a winner and worth the long wait. Adding my thanks to the team (i.e., Lux-Perpetua, gChart, Toykeeper, Sofirn…) who made it happen.