Does sofirn sp10 pro have the 5+3 mode like in sp10 ver 3?
I want double click to turbo and trible click to strobe :D. Does sp10 pro have those feature?
I have not used an SP10 V3, and do not know what 5+3 means
with the Anduril UI in the SP10 Pro, there is no triple clic to strobe. To get Strobe you would use 3H from off, that is clic, clic, clic-hold, not clic, clic, clic. And you cannot access strobe from ON, only from OFF
Yes Anduril can be set up to go to Turbo with 2 clics, both from Off and from ON. Anduril lets you choose the Ceiling level, so you can control how bright the double clic mode is.
And yes, Anduril can be set up to have 5 stepped modes if you like steps. Or it can ramp smoothly up and down, without steps.
Buy the SP10 Pro IF you want Anduril. Stay with your SP10 V3, if you dont care about learning Anduril.
Anduril is a GREAT UI, I highly recommend it. You will need to learn some new commands, and you will need to read the manual when you want to make programming changes. It is very feature rich, but also simple to use when it is programmed the way you like it.
1 Thank
Or, more briefly:
Fortunately not.
I think you guys are overthinking it; the lighted switch wouldn’t work with AA batteries installed without its own boost circuit. You could probably rig up a “dumb” one that works with only 3.7V but that defeats the purpose of this dual fuel light.
The MCU gets boosted all the time.
Thank your for details information. I will try to read the andruil UI first 
I get that but standby power to the MCU and what is necessary to power a LED are pretty far apart from what I understand. Just random numbers but would you accept 1-2 month on AA with switch LED vs 2 years standby on AA with no switch LED?
Received a new Red SP10 Pro w battery.
the light works great on both Eneloop and LiIon 
the firmware has been updated
version check shows: 202204180631
there is now a blink at top of ramp (there was no blink in the first run)
I have not seen the dim flash bug from the prior version
Hybrid 10 minute, Manual memory is now set to 20 lumens, prior version was 8 lumens.
The Longer thinner SP10 Pro w 14500 weighs the same as the shorter wider SC21 Pro w 16340.
An AA Eneloop weighs 6 grams more than the 14500. SC21 Pro has tailmagnet, lighted switch button, built in charging, and uses Anduril 1. SP10 Pro uses Anduril 2.
The lowest mode on SP10 Pro is 0.01 lumens
The lowest mode on SC21 Pro is 0.1 lumens
That’s a modded SC21 Pro, i noticed that my version originally had the text HOT on the bezel exactly above the switch, now i must have tightened it different, since it does not line-out anymore.
Yours (jon) seems to have the same issue
Are you sure it’s not 0631? Because 0613 is the wrong firmware for this light!
Thanks, fixed, I transposed
correct, Here is a modding album for an SC21 Pro
if I want the Hot to line up over the switch, I have to unscrew more, and add loctite.
in this Black, modded SC21 Pro, the Hot only went a little past the switch when I screwed the bezel down…
I just unscrewed slightly, no loctite used, it is still tight enough not to unscrew by mistake. I use wrenches to screw it down more than hand tight. I dont add loctite.
Here is a modding album for an SP10 Pro
Thanks for sharing those albums!
Yup, my first one came apart with a couple of good mouse pads… the second one looked like yours above. Loaded with glue, I used a dental pick to walk all of the glue out of the threads before I put it back together.
On a side note, the 519a sm503 is the first 5000k emitter that looks right to me. The E21A’s seem to cause more glare and really make my eyes hurt and most other 5000k emitters are way to green. Across the board the 519A’s are almost to neutral with the domes on. I do really like the sm573 with the dome off, hits my sweet spot. Thinking of converting an FW3A to 2x sm573 de-domes and one sm453 dome on to stay around 4000-4500k with a slight -Duv.
I put this one on my hotplate at 100C for 5 minutes… I could not get it open otherwise
XP-E2 660nm
.
I made a point of lining up the Hot symbol… LOL
The first thing I change in the UI is to Eliminate Hybrid Memory and Eliminate Manual Memory.
Then I lowered the ceiling to 100/150 on all modes, and lowered to floor to 1/150 on all modes.
I then put the light in Simple ramping mode. To eliminate access to turbo, which causes overheating.
fwiw, the two hosts produce Very different sized beams:
Nice job with the red LED.
I think a red LED might work well in a triple, combined with 2 of another LED. Maybe 1 red XPE plus two 4000K XPL-Hi. The red XPE is there to lower the duv and fill in the missing R9 the lower CRI while LEDs lack.
Main problem would be a red XPE can’t take that much current. Trying to modify a triple star with a resistor for just one of its LEDs would be a pain.
Thank you for the kind words.
It turned out to be a very satisfying mod for indoor distances at sublumen levels.
I also like that this version of Anduril has a slower ramping option, I set it to level 2, so it is easier to fine tune in small increments.
other program changes in advanced ramp config mode: (10H from On in advanced)
Manual memory Off
Hybrid memory Off
Don’t ramp up, just stay at the floor level.
No turbo, only ceiling.
FWIW, on my meter, 100/150 is about 90 lumens, this is a sustainable output that will not trigger thermal step down. Turbo was about 320 lumens (this was too high and would trip thermal step down immediately)
Hi jon_slider,
I always have problems getting results with the strap wrench I bought. The tool you are using in the picture you posted, what is the name for it? I would like to purchase one, it looks like it would be able to apply enough force to get results with my glued Sofirn flashlights!
Thank you
I also get no results with strap wrenches.
That shiny plier type tool is called a Vise Grip, I use two of them… be careful, I have damaged some lights at the head tube where it meets the body. Squeezing too tight I crushed the threaded part of the head, so it is not a perfect circle anymore. I avoid that by keeping the body tube screwed into the head, when using high pressure to grip the parts for unscrewing.
I recently started using heat. I put the head of the light on my reflow hotplate, but set to just 100C. I leave the head on the hotplate for 5 minutes. I use a stopwatch on my phone. This is making it easier to unscrew the glued heads.
There is still risk that the tool will slip, and the soft leather wrap will spin against the anodizing. I need a better system… Vise Grips are a Brute Force, tool. Be careful. The ones I used were less than $10 each, not high quality. Sometimes the lock lever gets a bit out of alignment, and it can be a bit difficult to unlock the tool.
Maybe others can share info on what tools they use to open glued lights.
Thank you very much for your post and all the great information!
I must invest in a small temperature controlled hotplate and definitely in a couple of vise grips. My existing tools, two low end strap wrenches only ever succeeded the one time, by managing to get the head off an sp10, but it took ages and my hands were in agony!
My wrist hurt yesterday… I did not know why… I think youre right, it was from struggling with tools to open lights…
fwiw, this is the hotplate I use and recommend https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2251832836157044.html… though you can accomplish similar results using an electric fry pan and an IR thermometer… for less money.
I look forward to your success modding… do share photos if you can 