I’m using a medium sized pipe wrench and thick leather. Gives good control over the force.
Yes it is, very much so…
Me too, easier to keep the pressure on than with mull (vise) grips.
I received my Sp10 Pro today, China to Uk in 9 days, not bad!
Had a quick play and was suprised by how bright it is on an NiMH, it seems a whole mode brighter than anything else i have.
And the 4000K LH351D seems really nice, very natural when seeing it during daylight.
And, of course, Anduril (2) on an AA light. That alone is making me grin.
I played with ramping it up and down a bit, just cos it’s fun, and a couple of times while ramping it reached mid-brightness somewhere and reversed direction. This happened both while ramping up from low, and ramping down from high, as if the switch blipped mid-ramp.
The last two times it did it i was paying attention and it wasn’t me changing the pressure on the switch.
Any one else experiencing this? I don’t think it’ll be a major problem but i’d like to know what’s going on.
Mine both did that from time to time until I updated the firmware to the latest build of Anduril 2. It is one heck of a nice light!
It is an autolock feature in Anduril.
works like this
Hold the button down and it ramps up, keep holding and it ramps down, keep holding and it flashes once, takes about 8 seconds. The light is now locked out. Must 4c to unlock
This is to protect against the light coming on in pocket and burning holes in stuff if the button is being held down, for a long time.
Its a feature, not a bug… lol
Try a SMALLRIG Super Crab Clamp for unscrewing small bezels like on an SP10 Pro:
Smaller bezels on a C01S may require hemostat forceps and some electrical tape on the threads. Squeeze the threads while using your fingers to twist the head:
Vice Grip Locking Pliers, rubber and a spanner work for an SC31 Pro and SC21.
1 Thank
> SMALLRIG Super Crab Clamp
thanks for the ideas, very helpful
Heat gun and rubber coated gloves usually works for me. I also use a heat gun for reflows. Very useful tool for other things from time to time as well.
New Arrival 
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swapped in 519a:
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The light arrived with Hybrid memory set to 15 Lumens. I changed the memory to the lowest mode. Keeping the 10 minute Hybrid Last Mode Memory.
My black SP10 Pro came today. No amount of vice grips, rubber, and leather can get the bezel off this thing. I haven’t tried heat yet, I might just decide to leave the LH31D in it.
Heat is the key.
Options include, put the light in the sun for an hour.
Or, put the light in a waterproof bag, and dip in boiling water for 2 minutes….
Or, what worked for me, was to put the head on my reflow plate at 100C for 5 minutes.
Good Luck!.. You can do it 
My trick is to put the flashlight to freezer. After it’s cold dip the bezel to boiling water. Idea is tobheat the bezel only. That way flashlight is contracted and bezel expanses because of heat.
Here’s my first swap with a 519A and a MiniWare MHP30 hot plate. I usually use my UYUE 946-1010 hot plate.
I tried removing the bezel with my hands but I ended up using the SmallRig Crab Clamp to get better grip on the bezel. It unscrewed easily after that.
519A sm353 (domed) swapped into a Sofirn SP10 Pro:
Some videos of the reflow and beam are here:
Good overview but shouldn’t step 8 say toward cathode? Triangle corner toward negative.
Ah, thanks! I’ll update it. I oriented the mark in the corner toward the negative side of the MCPCB and tested it with a digital multimeter rather than checking the data sheet. :innocent:
You never had a lense bursted?
Never.
Has anyone measured how much the light pulls with Vapcell H10 vs the included Sofirn battery?
Mine seems to be brighter with the H10
Data point that may or may not help. I have lots of H10 cells but they’re all flat top, and of course they won’t work in this light. The smallest magnet I have is too large to work and contacts the polarity protection bars on the driver. And I don’t have any of the Sofirn 14500 cells.
I have some button top H10 on the way, but I’ve been using button top L10 cells in this light. One of those with a resting voltage of 4.18V draws about 1.86A at the top of the ramp (advanced mode/highest step/turbo)…somewhere around 1.4mA at the bottom. Parasitic drain stays very close to 62uA over a period of time of a couple minutes. That same cell at 3.9V tops out at about 1.74A.
That’s well within the max current and also “comfort level” of the L10 cells, so while the H10 is capable of a lot more I don’t know if it’ll really make a difference here. But I’ll measure with the H10 cells later this week, be interesting to see. I’ve got some of the Vapcell gold 1000mAh cells at the office, so I’ll check those too…think those are pretty much on par with the L10, though.
I get about 3 A with the Sofirn 14500, so there should be some noticeable difference.