Not in an SP10 Pro.
I compared a Flat Top Vapcel H10 (10A) to Flat Top Vapcel L10 (3A), in a FWAA, the 10A cell was 22% brighter, for a couple of seconds.
I cannot test those batteries in my SP10 Pro for you, because it only works with button tops.
both batteries sustain the same outputs
below Turbo,
when thermal step down is not being triggered.
I think the 3A battery has slightly more runtime capacity.
1050mah vs 1000mah. Not sure how much of a difference 50mah would make in using the L10 vs H10.
agree, the difference is only 5%.
the other factor is that the 10A cell was 22% brighter, which suggests to me it is emptying itself 22% faster. iow, 22% less runtime, for a few seconds of extra output… 
With this light, you can set the ceiling lower to increase runtime if needed. I always purchased the H10 since the price difference is negligible between the L10 and H10. I only own 14500/AA lights and I doubt many can even maximize all 10A of the H10. For example, Nitecore, ThruNite, Skilhunt, Convoy, Lumintop.
I don’t have a way to measure tailcap amps but was curious since I noticed this light was brighter than the Skilhunt, Convoy, and Lumintop 14500/AA lights I own.
Supreme, do you have a multimeter? Most of them have a DC 10A range these days. That’s all ya need for simple stuff like this.
If it helps any, here’s HKJ’s test results for both purple Vapcell models. The L10 starts to fall on its face a little with voltage sag approaching 2amps, but at lower currents it maintains well enough and may last a tad longer capacitywise. H10 handles the beans better. The gold cell is an ICR and basically the L10 is an improvement across the board. These tests were in 2020 so who knows if Vapcell has been able to keep the same cell quality here (I’ve bought them three times since they were first available and so far they’ve all been fine….this week’s batch is hopefully the same. Nice cells.).
Can’t direct link or copy images from his graphs for whatever reason, so had to stitch up some screenshots (and trying to scale up with this forum software isn’t working so well…):
You can’t measure the current with a multimeter. It adds resistance and the current will be much lower than without. If you measure 1.5 A with your multimeter, it might be 2.5 A or more without it. Always use a clamp meter and thick wire to get realistic results.
True, burden inside and quality of leads, but depends on the meter. At low amps the meter I’ve got seems to do just fine. Usually over 2A or so I will switch to the clamp but thus far they have been very close to each other at lower amps. I don’t know about cheaper meters on the market in that regard. I don’t write this stuff down but I don’t think I was ever close to an entire full amp off between instruments when compared…seems like it was a couple tenths or less depending. I’ll do both when I get the H10s just for kicks.
I have the Manfrotto equivalent of the SMALLRIG Super Crab Clamp, it did not work well for me as the fit was just not right. I may have to order th SMALLRIG Super Crab Clamp.
Well my H10 cells are going to be delayed, so I compared measurements with my meter and the Uni-T 210E clamp on an L10 cell. Had to look up my burden voltage on the meter and it’s not bad, but I was pleased to discover that I can force the range (instead of auto-ranging) and drop the burden to an almost negligible level (which is only one part of the equation of course). Theoretically it should give me about .04V per amp, so we’re looking at about a tenth of a volt loss, perhaps less since this is at the bottom of that range/shunt. On turbo/top of ramp on that cell I got about 2.1A with the meter (using auto-range where the burden is higher it gave me about 1.94A this time, different cell than before). With the clamp and solid 12ga copper I got about 2.3A, sometimes 2.4A if I could press harder against the tube for better contact. Using 10ga and 8ga fine stranded wire didn’t improve anything, plus those were difficult to apply in such a small area with a very thin tube wall. So…not a huge difference, but not insignificant either…but this is still tail cap measuring anyway. I’m good with it. Looking forward to see what the H10 delivers and if it’s appreciably more. This does make me want to revisit some lights and remeasure them…and compare at the emitter, too. And doing the math, it’s clear that the burden voltage is a bigger problem than I first realized when it comes to finer work with lower voltage power supplies (not flashlights so much). Thanks for the check and inspiration to experiment more.
Just giving some feedback on my SP10 Pro.
I received mine last week, along with 2 drivers, and a magnetic tailcap.
One driver went immediately to a SP10B hots that was laying around. I needed to mod it a little bit to reduce the diameter and to remove the flaps . So far it has a Luxeon V2 3000K on the original aluminium PCB. I am using it with a soon to be drained AA alkaline battery and it sits on my bedside, most of the time, given it has that warm tint. I may replace it with a warm Samsung LED, but I have to order it first 
As for the SP10 Pro, it slightly larger than the SP10A/B versions, and sligtly heavier . I hope that it translates into better resistance to drops.
Althought it works well, I wish the switch was black, like the host. I like the low levels it reaches on both types of batteries (Alkaline / Ni-MH/14500 Li-Ion), it gets a bit hot when using a 14500 on turbo.
Yesterday, I modded it into a triple . 
(more photos will be added later)
On the right it is the modded SP10B, with AA inside. Both on the lowest mode.
This modded version is still much taller than the FWAA and than other AA lights I have, but at least it is shorter than the original version. 
After the mod, I noticed that the driver makes some kind of noise when ramping up or using turbo, specially on 14500s. On AA it also does it but on max output it stops.
Has anyone else noticed this?
Yes.
Congrats on your Triple AAA MascaratumB, another first…
No but I have only had Three SP10, and none make any sound. Neither do either of my two SC21…
they are on sale btw… info and codes here
Ahhh, nice! I noticed the post some time ago, but didn’t relate it to this noise! Looking at the “levels” I guess mine is more or less similar.
The driver that came on the SP10, because the other, so far, I didn’t notice any sound!!
Thanks for the reference
Thanks jon_slider
I guess I wasn’t the first one, because I’ve seen reference to a triple SP10 before in this thread. Still, it is a nice piece
I will probably surrender to some High CRI warm leds soon, this light is asking for that
I also thought about the red led, as you did with yours, but I realized I wouldn’t have so much use for it.
Thanks again and enjoy your lights too
> I also thought about the red led, as you did with yours, but I realized I wouldn’t have so much use for it.
yes, red has limited use. I use it for red light therapy, not for illumination. I mainly mention it because Anduril does not care about the lower vF of Red LEDs, and ramping works perfectly. In fixed mode lights, swapping in red results in messed up mode spacing, and no low modes.
Thanks for that, good to know it can be resolved through firmware.
Thanks for teaching me about this lock sequence, i have yet to properly explore Anduril 2.
I have now used this lock sequence and it’s not the same as the bug, the bug happens in both directions well before it reaches the floor or the ceiling. And a couple of times now when ramping up, instead of reversing direction it’s simply jumped back to the floor and started ramping again.
I have just been playing with the light like a toy though so i don’t know how much this will actually happen in proper use. I was also swapping the battery in and out so there’s also the slim possibility it’s down to a capacitor not being allowed to charge up fully.
I have now set the floor to “1” and it is a great moonlight level, noticeably lower (on NiMH) than my L3 Illuminations L10 and Eagtac D25A.
I also need to post a photo of the significant gouge i put in the bezel when trying to unscrew it… :person_facepalming:
Sound as if this would happen frequently to your light. I cannot reproduce it and would think it’s a flakey switch. If a more recent FW solved this, maybe the debouncing parameters have changed? Anyway, good it can be solved.
Edit: Now I remember having read mixed reports about the switch. Maybe there are quality issues.
Agree with Unheard on the flakey switch being the likely culprit. I have a (different) light that exhibits similar symptoms, and it’s definitely the e-switch.
Did you end up making these and have any left? I’m interested [UK]. Thanks
I’m just finishing up my review and noticed the mention of the Attiny1616, does this chip mean that the thermal sensor doesn’t require calibration?
> does this chip mean that the thermal sensor doesn’t require calibration?
I would suggest you verify if your light has correct thermal calibration. I have found my SP10 Pro is accurate, and does not need the thermal sensor calibrated. It is accurate from factory. Also true for my SC21 Pro, FWAA and my Wurkkos TS10… they do all have Attiny1616, but I did not know that guarantees accurate thermal calibration.
I always verify, using an IR thermometer aimed at the light, compared to the temperature check function of the light.