That is every thing!
We believe in you Sofirn you can make a direct drive for this light easy!
Is the 5000 lumens from a buck driver? That would be around 8-9amps i think?
Buck driver sounds good also id love to have a constant current output.
No, I don’t think any kind of buck driver can make that much output. I was told the FX30 driver in the L6 was a buck design and it was less than 3300 lumen. I’m not sure what driver design the S70 had. It was different looking do for sure.
Just for my own understanding, if anyone is familiar with these two drivers I would like to know more about their design and their limitations. I also would like to know more about the K70’s preposed driver. From what I remember, not many details were given.
L6
S70
Due to using a 70.2 emitter, maybe there is a bigger difference in the voltages (more overhead) compared to the older xhp70? IDK, I’m just wondering out loud. If any driver gurus know, it would be very interesting.
BTW, the Eagle Eye X9 was another light in this style, but I don’t think it sold well. It’s not mentioned much. Just thought I’d mention that.
Save that for another build. We are pretty locked in on this design.
I like that as well. Some grooves do add a nice touch. No grooves at all might make it pretty plain looking.
As far as logos, I think this SP33 is a nice example. Just put “Sofirn SP70” in the same location. Maybe leave off the “Hot” warning.
Now that look at it, I think it has the kind of bezel people were talking about. A shallow crenulation just so you know the light is on when you set it face down. The shiny looks good against the black.
Here is the X9, it also has a nice bezel. The rest of the styling is not too nice (in my opinion).
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Yea but you can mod the FX30 to do about 7.5-8amps without issues apparently?
My old original S70 driver does 6amps at the tail cap. After the first run they changed the output a bit apparently?. My S70 was from the very first run.
They could make it buck for lower levels then switch it to direct drive for Turbo mode.
I have a modified HX-1175b1 doing over 9amps @ the emitter 3S 32650,26700/26650 6v XHP-70.2 P2-1C in a T90-2 for 5500lm
Here is an old thread… Driver Info: HX-1175b & HX-1175B1 (Pic Heavy)
On the FX-30, if you changed the sense resistors from 0.041 to 0.029 (adding an R100) I think it was still buck, but just briefly. Any lower or with a wire across the resistors would make it direct drive (and possibly smoke).
Texas_Ace or someone could probably explain it more accurately. Assuming it was still running as a buck driver, it would fall out of regulation after a few minutes (assuming good high drain cells are used). What good is that? If you wanted a decent amount of regulated turbo time you’d need to lower the lumen levels.
Texas Ace was actually working on a buck driver for the xhp70.2 version of the GT, but gave up on it. That had more powerful batteries, 4 or 8 x 18650. With only 2 x 26650, the voltage sag is much greater on our light making a buck driver less effective at high output. I barely know the basics of buck driver design, so maybe someone can else explain it better.
That is using 3 batteries, while we are using 2. There is not much voltage overhead.
Kawi, you deleted?
Yea bridging the FX30 with solder would get like 9-10amps but then it may burn out after some time. It really depends on the components how long it last.
The issue is that when you increase current you need to increase voltage you can not do just one. So by increasing current to much say by bridging the resistors the voltage becomes unregulated thus making it a direct drive which is why it burns out. A buck driver regulates voltage.
A direct drive is easier and cheaper to make compared to a regulated driver.
You can buy regulated drivers that do high do high voltage and current but they are bigger then flashlight drivers but a company with resources may be able to shrink that design down or make one from scratch. If it worth it is another thing. If you can just make a regulated Fet driver cheaper and easier why would you bother?
9 Amps sound good for this kind of light to balance of heat, runtime and brightness …DD is too much IMO.
I think this name is great.
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People like either one of these for tube knurling it seems. The Q8 version or the SP33 version.
Most don’t care for the ‘flats’ it appears & most would like some type groove if possible.
Keep it simple
Not really. A better balance of heat, runtime and brightness is about 3500 lumen (5.3A)
I daily use my DD L6 at work. I just go to turbo and ramp down just a tiny bit. Like 1/2 a second. This gives me much less amperage, but it’s still plenty bright.
I just measured it and it’s at 3500 lumen (5.3A). So that is what I use nightly at work. On rare occasions I need more, so I hit the dbl clk. Bam, now I can see even farther.
So turbo is really just a burst mode. Temporary use for when you need it. (16+A)
High mode (5A or so) is what I’d like to see as the more practical use upper setting.
At 9A I was measuring 4500 lumen. 17A was 6000 lumen on my light. It may be possible to somehow limit the direct drive current on Turbo to around 9 amps, but I don’t really see the point in it. I’d rather it be 6000 or more. It would be the king of this style light. Skylumens L6 was 6500 lumen, but I think his lumen measurements are a bit exaggerated compared to mine.
If the SP70 came without bypassed springs, a less efficient FET and small led wires you might very well see 9A at most.
Shouldn’t you get more lumens at 17amps like 7500 lumens?
What is your tint?
4-5 Amp in Hi for practically use is fine but 9-10 Amp in Turbo for fun will be great without burning hot of DD 
It’s a P2 1A.
I’m sure some people might measure my light at 7500, but I measure 6000. I may need some fresh batteries. I’ve used mine a lot. They maybe be sagging in voltage more than normal.
Running the protected KeepPower 5200mAh will keep you limited to about 10 amp. It does on my light.
Kawiboy, i like your light with the head in the middle (S70s), with the smooth SS bezel (without crenelations, preferably Foybezeled ™), and the tube of the L6 on the Left, (and the sleeker tailcap) but it should not have the cutouts on the finning, (just round fins)
The tube in the middle with the rings are nice as well, but it should not have the ‘flats’
And and extra smooth ring, so you can choose whether to use the tactical ring or not.
just my humble opinion
EDIT
It needs to be heavy duty and classy as well
For the price/performance point of view :weary: no thanks.
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This is why my KeepPowers are tucked away in a drawer. Lol
We will see how many amps are pulled on the prototype. It might be 10, just like you want.
It also depends on the bin and tint which we have no clue of yet.