Just to think outside the box, a 2s/3s buck driver that will switch to direct drive when it falls out of regulation in the highest mode?
That way you have high power and still regulated low modes. And capable of using 2 cells and 3 cells.
My vote is for a FET. Like Jason said, I just use the modes/ramping if I don’t need high at the moment. But I can still reach out with incredible output with a simple click.
Almost all buck drivers switch to DD when they fall out of regulation, they just have a lot more voltage drop / resistance then a normal FET driver so they can not make the same peak numbers.
The buck driver is a bit more efficient at low modes though allowing for longer battery life in low modes.
I meant direct drive like get drivers so low resistance. Maybe something like a fet besides the buck circuit so when it falls out of regulation the get is activated for low resistance/high performance.
3 or even 4 battery tube would be pretty neat so we can put this in the car and use for self defense. Will be like a Maglite but with a bigger head and way brighter!
I like it too. Even if it is not an option for ‘this’ time. We should look at this real soon!! At least a 3S & and maybe even a 4S or an option to extend a 3S.
I agree with KB… Carrying a 3S would be little different from a 2S. Not enough to even notice really.
He can make a fet driver but limit the turbo on fet not allowing DD. So he can set up a safe level about 10-12A and not allowing 18-20A.
One more thing.
This light is a must to have factory spring bypasses at least with 22AWG wires or double springs both on tailcap and driver.
Yea sorry i wrote about tint in another reply. What is on the plate? Are you aiming for one model only? Or more options like a neutral white (5000k) and warm white (3500K)? Maybe give us 2 choices of tints? Did the engineers say what size the LED board will be? (MCPCB) Or if the LED board is direct thermal path? Same technology in your C8? Any idea on the binning on the LED? Is it a P2 bin LED?
We have had all tint options thrown our way in this thread. Any where from 3000k-6500k. If you only want to chose one tint we will have to have a poll on it. If you give us a few option to chose from that would be great.
As far as i know there is no option for cold white with the XHP70.2 but i would like to be corrected by some one?
The 70.2 seems to look a bit warmer than the color temp would suggest. I would like a 7500K so that it will appear 6000K-6500K, but I might be in the minority.
Having 2 color temps would be nice. Like a 5000K NW and a 6500K CW. Or of you have to choose one, maybe a middle ground 5700K.
It is mandatory to use 20mm or bigger copper DTP mcpcb in order to handle the heat.
As for spring bypasses, are those needed? Maybe a double spring on each end is enough? Especially if the power is turned down (I hope it isn’t). I really dont think you would see 20A from a pair of 26650. 16 to 17 amp seems to be the norm with about 18A at turn on. If it maxes out at 15 to 16 amp, that is still not too bad.
I just looked on Cree website no cold whites in the XHP70.2? I have never seen a cold white XHP70.2? Do they make them? I would have also liked 2 options like 5000k and 6500k.
Edit I double checked there is a cold white variant but i have not seen it for sale i would like to see one tested. I think the NW and WW where the first XHP70.2 to be released.
I think most people uses 4000K XHP70.2 leds that is why you seeing more warm pics. I have a 4000K and an 5000K and I like something between the two. I also like 6500K SST40 leds but my 5000K XHP70.2 looks like a 6500K SST40. So I think 7500K is way too cool white.
Sofirn can do spring bypasses. The stock C8F has them both springs and the SP32A has it on the driver.
U Talking crazy…. :person_facepalming:
