Your basically just creating more surface area. So it’s like folding some paper to the shape of the fins then stretching it out. The increased surface area gives you more contact to the surrounding air which means more heat exchange.
I don’t think the extremely thin grooves around the L6 switch do much. They mainly are for looks, I think. I guess every little bit helps, though.
Another slight increase in the size of 1) allows the third groove from the front to be a bit deepened. Even if they don’t have capability to machine deep grooves like djozz speculates, the grooves in the middle section are a bit deeper than the front ones so that should be possible.
Yea but for every groove cut out you are taking away material in the hope that air will flow in and cool the light and or release heat out. So i guess there would need to be a certain size minimum fin to actually see the benefits?
So with the L6 it may have worked better to just leave the material in place. Also the argument of more but thinner fins vs less thicker fins with more separation.
Sounds to math heavy for me lol
BTW, what’s the part in the red circle and what purpose does it serve?
A second o-ring?
For cushion? Probably no, looks like bezel touches the lens.
For waterproofing? There’s a way for water to go around it. Though through the threads.
The problem with #10 is that they still need to cut the lanyard loop. This might be too big of a change. Even though I like it.
Number 9 might be doable, unless they have an issue with cutting grooves in a slope. IDK.
I can send them this most recent picture, explain it and see if they think it’s possible or not.
Are you talking about the red line by the lens? That is just a measurement line showing reflector depth. It is not physical.
The o-ring behind the glass seals against 3 surfaces. It doesn’t matter if water gets past the threads. The water can’t get past the O-ring and into the light.
They could move the sling attachment to the top around where 9 is. I wonder if they will sell the sling included in the price.
You would be surprised how much even small fins can help.
For example we all know how fast an FET powered S2+ heats up but it is surprising how much the fins on the Convoy S8 help, it still overheats of course but I have had 2 of the same builds side by side and the S8 stays noticeably cooler to the touch for the first ~90-120 seconds.
I can actually hold my S8 triple for about 90 second on turbo. I never would of guessed these tiny fins do anything if I had not seen it myself.
That said, this light is much more powerful so I doubt it would see the same gains. Just don’t underestimate the effectiveness of proper fin usage.
Sofirn seems to be willing to make design changes to accommodate our desires. That is AWESOME! Thank you!!
I love all this discussion and collective brainstorming.
But it seems like we are going about this backwards. We are taking a flawed heat path design and trying to tweak it to make it better.
If Sofirn is willing, wouldn’t it be better to start with the best heat sink design possible, then make changes to accommodate production costs/constraints?
I know this has already been suggested…
I have never seen a flashlight designed like that. It wouldn’t even look like a flashlight.
I think Sofirn is just trying to make an upgraded L6/S70 style light. Nothing too complicated, just better where it counts.
Maybe they can drill a hole sideways through 8 for a ring
It would look like a pineapple with a lens sunk into it, and a handle stuck in on a spike like an afterthought.
Make # 10 only 270° rather than 360°.Then do lanyard attachment point as originally planned.
And of course taper each end of the 270° smoothly back into the body.
Is that a stepped pineapple or plunger-shaped one? Ananas comosus stepticus or Ananas comosus plungodon?
I was thinking some type of copper ball with 200 little spikes attached plus a handle. Like a medieval mace. Lol.
I will see what Sofirn says later today when they are back at work.
Repost of pics:
Latest ideas Aug 16:
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+1
Definitely will look better.
Maybe increase the diameter, so it will have the same diameter as the middle of the head
I like that…. it could double as a weapon light.
Add an optional heavy duty chain to swing it with & would really ’shine’ in a street brawl…… 
Another idea:
What can we do to reduce the resistance between the parts of the head?
Deep square threads have larger contact area than shallow triangular ones.
Non-anodized are probably slightly better than anodized.
Some kind or thermal interface is a big deal. But what kind?
Is there a method of joining those parts other than threads that would perform better? Nothing feasible comes to my mind, but maybe someone else has better idea?
Just bow terrible are threads in blocking heat flow & transfer??
Both the BLF GT & GT70 have a threaded two piece head and they both just screw together with nothing on the threads.
Why the worry about this light??
This is an honest question too. 
I don’t think it is as important as is the thickness and fins near the hottest point, which is the LED ofcourse