No the SR90 was not perfect, just an visual idea of what could be close, go with the (heat) flow, get it to those fins, tighten up the air gaps inside, one piece billet aluminum with the thickest shelf you can go with to get that heat to those fins, you got a winner I think. It had a massive Brass sink, thick copper bar type ncpcb. I made a copy of it out of copper and put a XHP70 32mm mcpcb with a FETDD driver in it. I think originally was a SST90 making 2700-3000lm? IIRC?
In all the drawings, the part of the head that houses the LED has threads that overlap (screws on outside) the forward part of the head which has the fins. So heat needs to travel across these threads to reach these fins. That’s the problem area right?
What if that was reversed? The 2nd tier of fins could be part of the head piece that generates all the heat… the threads would be machined inside of these fins and the forward part of the head would screw in INSIDE of that.
So the main part of the head would have ID threads and an extra set of fins, and the forward part of the head would have OD threads and no fins.
Okay, I’ve heard back from Tracy. They are going to do ideas #7 and #8. They are not able to do or maybe don’t want to do #9 and #10. Those two were a bit of a long shot anyway.
Here are their latest images.
They don’t show the grooves going all the way around the switch area, but Tracy assured me they do. I’ve added it to the above image.
So they are wanting this to be the final design and are ready to move on to making a prototype. :+1:
I’m not sure how deep the grooves are around the switch. They might be deeper than I drew them in the cutaway image. Looking at that white image, they could be pretty deep indeed. Maybe they will give us an updated image showing these grooves.
Thanks for the update mate. Its looking good so far although not perfect its gotten much better. No one will know how efficient it is at removing heat till we have a sample or they do testing.
We really never discussed what we wanted from the light in the first place. Are we after 5500-6000 lumens for 10 mins at a time? How long can two 26650 sustain 10amps without dropping output? 10amps at 10mins would mean the cells would be almost half drained or about 65%. Output would be substantially less at this point meaning less heat.
I think realistically we want a few mins at max output at a time?
I’m not sure how many amps it will pull. A TA driver can do 17A to 18A on a pair of 26650 Liitokala. So your over 100 watts. You can only run that maybe 1.5 to 3 minutes. I believe 10 minutes would be impossible.
If the power were reduced to 5A, then maybe 10 minutes or more would be possible. This is what the stock L6 can do. It can actually keep going continously, but it gets blistering hot, which is not good.
At 10A? I don’t know. 4 minutes? We will have to find out.
Of course there are a lot of other factors. Is it sitting on a table or held in a hand? Is there air circulation around it? What is the ambient temperature? These can effect it a lot.
I’m not sure about your battery questions. There are several batteries to chose from. Maybe someone can chime in on that.
I personally use my L6 at a reduced level of turbo for short bursts of 5 to 15 seconds. Heat has never been an issue for me. If I need to run it for several minutes, I reduce the output so it doesn’t get too hot.