SOLD-Micro mags for sale (triple nichia + Guppydrv)-SOLD

Hi all,

Through circumstances nearly beyond my control I came into possession of three Atiny 13a chips flashed with Guppydrv firmware. The most logical thing to do next was to cut a bunch of mini mags in half. This batch of micromags feature a combination of the nichia 219 emitter on triple noctigon and RMM’s single sided FET +7135 driver. The black and gray micros have 90 plus CRI Nichia 219b emitters for the tint snobs while the blue unit features 219c emitters for you lumen freaks out there.

These lights use direct drive off a high drain 14500 cell to drive a triple 219c to 9 amps or a triple 219B to over 7 amps on turbo at start up. The 219c will quickly drop to around 7.6 amps at 30 seconds while the 219b will drop to 6.6 amps in the same time period. After the initial quick amp drop there is around four to five minutes of run time before the light gives a low voltage warning when the battery reaches 3 volts. The battery is only providing about an amp to the emitters by time the low voltage protection kicks in.

These triples also feature the advantage of a dual channel driver to create a true firefly mode of about half a lumen (estimated in comparison to a D25A on firefly mode). Additional features include the highly user-adaptable Guppydrv firmware, a tailcap spring bypass mod to reduce resistance, and carclo narrow spot frosted optics. My micro mags are all built as described here excepting that I use aluminum heatsinks instead of copper. I estimate around 2000 lumens at start up and around 1700 at 30 seconds for the 219c and around 1000 lumens for the 219b(based on testing by Djozz). Turbo should still be giving a couple hundred lumens when the low voltage warning flashes. A description of the Guppydrv firmware can be seen on the Mountain Electronics website here. Scroll to the bottom of the page for the FET+7135 clicky description.

Beamshot of 219c triple is 60 yards to the sugar house. The 219b has the same beam profile but trades the extra lumens of the 219c for high CRI goodness and a slightly longer run time.

Price includeing CONUS shipping is $63 each. All lights are sold. International buyers pay additional shipping.

First reply followed by PM gets the light of their choice.

My paypal address is

Thanks for looking,


Hi Brian.

I will take the Blue and Silver mini mags.

PayPal Sent.


You got it!

Congrats ‘slow2go’!!
This is a prime example of the old saying…. “when you snooze you loose”. :-(( Me being the “snoozer & looser”. lol

I saw these about 00:45 this morning and by the time I got thru reading about them a couple of times [as well as a few other threads also :wink: ] I went back to get them and lo & behold… too late.

I was gonna get the same two you did too…… Blue & Gray.

Enjoy… lesson learned by me also. :smiley:

Oh yeah, just so I’ll now for future reference [when I do get one… or two… off these] what type of 14500 battery do these take?

I don’t have any modded lights…. yet, and Protected Li-Ion’s [ 26650, 18650, 14500, & 10440] are pretty much all I use & am familiar with.
But I see by the amp draw these require… the “protected” 14500’s would not work. What would?

Thanks in advance for the answer.

Edit to fix typo.

Efest or Windyfire imr’s. Protected cells are better used for single led or series cells. In a triple the pcb protection might trip.

Right on Duck! I really like the Windyfires and you can’t beat the price.

A good lesson learned, Slow is anything but slow when he sees something he’s just gotta have! PM sent.

KY, I assume you still use the OL “human lathe” method for chopping these down? My preference is to chop them at the tail and use a alum or brass pressed in plug for the tail. I could possibly be persuaded in to turning up a small batch if you or anyone else that does minis might be interested.

robo819 has a group buy going on this week at 20% off which makes the Efest Purple 14500 flat top under $4, like $3.20 each.

Edit: The group buy officially starts Wednesday for those not signed up with robo819’s group buy. :wink:

I use the human lathe method because I much prefer the look of the knurling in the middle of the light rather than at the end. I do occasionally use tail plugs when someone requests “as short as possible” so I’ll give it some thought.

I’ve even cut the tail cap off and put a clicky in it, but that was a booger! :slight_smile: That’s on my TRUE micro mag, a 14250 cell. (Macro micro?)

Yep, you got that right…… :slight_smile: PM answered.

I like the knurling in the middle look as well but I use a brass sleeve to string the parts back together. It allows for more intermediate options with relative ease. Mag lights are great, with as many options as you can imagine. I’d like to work up a side switch module like those for the larger mags.

Actually Scott, that should be pretty doable, well, with a lathe. I think I’ll give it a go with this little black AA incan sitting here… pretty sure how to work it, I think I have a couple of momentary’s, this might be pretty neat! :slight_smile:

Wonder if I’ll remember this in the morning? :stuck_out_tongue:

Really making me want to try another go at a triple mini-mag. I tried twice and just completely ruined both tubes trying to cut and rethread. Just couldn’t seem to get it right.

I do have a few old incan mini-mags left….

The threads on MagLite’s are 4 way start. Without expensive tools you just can’t “rethread”.
This is a fast thread that literally is 4 spirals, each quarter turn brings up a new start point. Makes it nice for the user, a major pita for the modder. Unless the tube can have the top threads completely removed and the threads in the head bored out for a fresh start, cutting new threads is not an easy option.

This is why we normally cut and re-join with a male/female connection. Not the best, but by far the easiest considering.

He may have been referring to the tail cap threading. OL did a gb before there were GB’s on the tap for that a few years ago. The key to rethreading is one, start with the correct id and two, stay on axis. And lube.

Yeah Scott, I know, but without doing something on both ends you end up with the knurling disappearing into the head with no smooth stretch. I like to see knurling between smooth areas like the stock configuration but it isn’t easy to make that happen. Double cuts, double fitments with the male/female press fit.

Chicago X used to flip the tube, chop it from the other end and re-thread it to make it work out right. This on the larger D and C sized lights, no press fit section this way and it had a nice look to it. Wish I’d gotten one of those from him, he also fitted a clicky switch in the tail cap and eliminated the side switch to make a much shorter 1D configuration. Looked awesome!

Devil’s in the details, you know it, Justin knows it, pretty sure kyfishguy knows it by now as well.

I’m wondering how these lights have the pill made, are there any shots showing this? I got my first chopped MiniMags from TexasLumens and built them up the human lathe way, several triples done that way and I’m wondering if these are done in a similar fashion. (cutting an aluminum or copper spacer/light engine) It can be illuminating to see how someone else goes about doing something sometimes. :wink:

Come on Dale, there’s a link right in the OP! :stuck_out_tongue: Here, I’ll make it easy on you.

Geesh! You expect my bifocals to pick up on that little “here”?
I DID look, but missed that Sorry, and thanks for the prod…. :stuck_out_tongue: