thanks, don’t want to derail this thread any further as i only wished to get feedback for the idea from a milling master 
but even pm’ing the pic would be great! just as a final note adapting the p60 wrapping method was what i’ve had in mind: adhesive copper tape around a cut-off p60 reflector base to allow the p60 pill to be re-swappable. my thought is the copper wrap being quite soft might almost be threadable with careful rotation into the c8 body. and copper tape is relatively disposable in any case. i actually don’t own a c8 host yet, but will look into it when one arrives…
would not serve much contact area, but still might not be worse than a stock p60 setup
thank you for the kind words and pleased that you are happy. you do give me more credit than deserved. i merely had an extra uf-t20 laying here and was the first to respond to VoB’s request. the copper pill was all his idea and design. i also wish i could find the time to build a light with damn thing just staring at me on the bench.
don’t give up on the mods….everyone has winners and losers. i’m not sure 25k is bad either if OTF lumens are high? i’m not one to ask either, as i have done very little work with the xm-l emitter.
If accurate, 25k lux is very good for a C8 (measure again at 5meters and calculate back to 1meter to be sure).
[quote=apt323This seems to make the body warm up a lot faster versus the brass or aluminum pills. [/quote]
This is the key - while you might get measurements nearly as high w/ brass or aluminum, they will sag due to heat sooner, and probably worse, than the copper.
apt23 - what battery? Did you check/reduce other resistances like tailcap spring, + spring, wires, etc.? 3 amps will be the best you can do on typical batts with typical springs, etc. Pana PD's, Samsung 20R, maybe that new 30A Sony batt (1600 mAh) are the only way to go on single cell, non-boost driver setup, and you must be sure no + spring resistance, must use heavier gauge wires, etc.
My last C8 build got 51 kcd with the dome, 45-51 kcd range with good C8 reflector, 3.85A Nanjg, XM-L2 U2/SinkPAD.
** Also got 92 kcd on a C8 w/de-domed XM-L2 T6 0D.
Tom E: do you measure at 1 meter?
that’s quite a C8 (30 mm reflector) 45-51kcd - besting a 7g5v2 and giving a Fandyfire STL-V6 (57mm? reflector) a run for its money…
this is a pretty good thread, Anyone have lux readings on these single cell XM-L throwers?
I measure at 4.31 meters, give or take a mm 
. I measured a stock TN31 accurately (matched others who published results, 715 meter throw calculated) yesterday on the same 4.31m setup, so pretty confident in the setup. Also these C8's are doing in the 1,200's for lumens with a UCL lens, and they got the "better" SMO reflector for C8's. If you looks at C8 reflectors at FT for example, there are 2 types - I seem to get better results with the type that is shaped stepped down (outside view) as opposed to tapered or rounded. The LightMalls C8 (U2 version I bought) seems to do real well, there are others doing good as well. The XinTD (mod'ed) is slightly behind, but very close.
Here's my post from the OP thread here https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/15778:
LightMalls UF C8 before: KD V2 3.8A, U3 1C emitter, UCL lens:
- 1013 lumens start, 982 lumens @30 secs, throw: 38 kcd (fresh Pana 2900)
LightMalls UF C8 after: custom programmed Nanjg - 3.85A, brass C8 pill (FastTech) w/copper discs, XM-L2 U2 1C on 20mm SinkPAD:
- 1203 lumens @start, 1173 lumens @30 secs, 48 kcd (measured at 4.31 meters, fresh Pana 3400)
** I got higher numbers on a Pana PD and even higher on a Samsung 20R.
good stuff!
so, i wonder which reflector apt323 has, and I wonder what one of the good reflectors does w/ xml (not xml2) and 3 amps
sounds like he needs better cells 
Well, good on a fresh charge, but I know these single cell XM-L2/SinkPAD's w/amp regulated drivers (no boost) don't sustain those numbers. I really (if no one else has) have to do some time trail tests - 5 mins on, 10 mins cool, 5 mins on, etc., then measure at each 5 mins. Did one experiment where an XM-L2 U2/SinkPAD was a 100 or so lumens over a U3/SinkPAD at start (approx. 1200 vs 1100), then at the 15 min mark on the batteries, they measured about the same, then dropped below after that. But it wasn't apples to apples, and I lost track of time so didn't compare battery time to battery time precisely.
but if C8 slugs can be made to fit a ~20mm buck driver (such as this or this), one could use 18350 cells (such as these or these) to make a compact powerhouse. I imagine such a setup would handily out-lumen the venerable Malkoff Wildcat V4. Decisions, decisions.
Thanks for the comments guys - Lets see if I can answer some questions.
The light puts out a lot of light but I just guess not in the throw department! It has great tint. I would guess that the only other 3C tint light I have is the BLF A8 it is more brown then this. I guess this is why I was not a fan of the 3C tint.
I measured from 3 and 6 meters and they are both close to the same. Also it does seem to hold brightness longer then other light at the same amps.
I tried 3 batteries they were CGR18650EA, Callies Customs, and a Sanyo UR18650F. I have not done any resistance mods, tried to do the solder braid on the positive spring but it was not very successful. Definitely need better batteries.
I put in a coated lens in the light tonight and I am getting 28-29k either from better focus or better lens or maybe it was both…. 
Here is a pic of the reflector that is in the light.
Edited
They look very nice to me.
:heart_eyes:
I get higher lux and no corona if I don’t use the led spacer, just rest the reflector on the pad.
Most of mine are de domed though, which no doubt makes a difference.
My best is 70k lux de domed on alu star and pill, cant wait for these to arrive
Chris
Ok everyone, I have finished the batch.
All the orders I have received are packaged up and will ship tomorrow.
What NOT to expect:
Please bear in mind that I dont have a mill. All of the wire holes have to be angled and were drilled by hand. The notches for threading the pill in were also cut by hand. So please understand they are NOT cosmetically perfect.
What you CAN expect:
I put a lot of time in these to ensure the best possible quality in the areas that I think matter most. Number one is threading.
As you can see the threads are very clean and uniform. I have tested each and every single one of these to make sure they thread in like butter and run all the way down. This also ensures a superb thermal path from the sink to the light, which you CAN FEEL!!
With the amps run high ( over 4) you will immediately FEEL the light body get warm and then hot.
The height of the lip on these is taller than a factory pill because it makes it easier to grip in the lathe. They still work with the C8 reflector exactly the same.
Also the surface where the MCPCB sits was fine tuned AFTER all the drilling was done. This will create yet another exceptional thermal junction with proper reflow or epoxy.
FOCUS:
The height where the LED sits is as close to factory as possible. I have tested these with both C8 and T20 lights and in the ones I have they work perfectly.
Conclusion: I have tried very hard to think of everything that could be an issue with wide scale use of these and spend many hours to try to make sure these will work for everyone. However if for ANY reason you are unable to make these work in your personal light please PM me and I will either re-cut, replace or refund if necessary.
I mean it if you are not absolutely 100% thrilled with your product dont hesitate to contact me!
The thread has been marked as SOLD OUT for now because I want to field this batch before I consider another one.
The following orders leave tomorrow. If a BLF handle was not given in the notes buyers will be identified by first name and last initial.
1. Oscar T x 2
2. Troisanh x 2
3. dthrckt x 4
4. Tom E x 2
5. Pulsar x 1 + Mag sink
5. Cateyes x 2
6. Mulie x 2
EDIT:
7. crnkin x 8
If you have paid for product and do not see your name here please contact me.
Thanks again everyone, looking forward to seeing what awesome things you create!
Wow!! Thanx Again!! A lot of detailed work there...
cant wait! should have got two, as i will probably end up with another c8 at some point, but only one for now. got hobby funds spread out too thin lately
lets play a little game
post what exactly these pills will be going in to, along with any and all mods
mine is going in a UniqueFire c108, ar lens, smooth reflector, xml2 t6 on a 20mm sinkpad, im thinking of the 4a ramping driver gords likes… and a blue boot ta boot
Pm’d as didnt see my name listed.
Good idea with the high pill sides - extra heat sinking so close to the source will be great
Chris
vestureofblood, if you’re considering another run would it be possible to have one with a driver cavity that fits ~20mm buck drivers like this (minus the larger contact board)?
crnkin,
PM replied I will get you taken care of as per PM.
Slim,
I actually made one to use that driver back when I made the prototypes for these. It does work. I removed the slave board from the bottom. It fits the T20 perfectly, but its a pretty tight fit to get this in the C8 along with the added length of the 18350s.
I will think on it a bit while we wait for the report on this batch.
Cool. I’m looking forward to hearing about people’s builds with ’em, too.
just got mine today!
not sure if i will get around to flowing the xml2 and sinkpad to it tonight though
edit: sinkpad no good. first attempt at reflow failed. used a butane torch to heat the under side of a piece of sheet metal with the star on top of it to get the pads tinned, and as i was tinning i was not paying attention to the torch underneath… peeled the dielectric layer up. DOH. now i smell like magic smoke and no sinkpads… at least i didnt cook my xml2 t6…