I am going to update my Emisar D4 to the Andúril UI (to match match my DS4, which I have already done). If I am successful I’ll probably get an Emisar D1 and flash that too.
I believe I need to unsolder two wires, flash the UI, and resolder. I don’t have a soldering iron, so I need to purchase something (preferably in the UK, with UK power plug). I doubt I’ll do much more soldering after that — but you never know
I’ve read posts on BLF, but I’m not going to get a soldering station. I was thinking of getting something like an Antex XS25 with silicone cable ( Amazon.co.uk ), or the Aoyue 3211 LED Illuminated Soldering Iron - 70W ( Amazon.co.uk ) but these are not temperature adjustable.
At the cheap end of the scale are the 8W 5V USB powered ones ( Amazon.co.uk ), or the cheap generic kits that all look the same ( Amazon.co.uk ). Are these any good for a simple job?
I have a 60W iron that I’ve used for over 25 years, from electronics projects to building and repairing electric guitars. Just a cheap hardware store soldering iron (Weller I think?) I don’t think a USB powered one would get hot enough but I could be wrong…
Alchemi, I recommend the ksger T-12 soldering iron: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1486111 It can use real T12 tip and heat up very quickly, faster than most usual weller or hakko soldering iron which I have used before. The only better iron I have used is very expensive Metcal RF soldering iron.
I highly advise not to use cheap solder iron because it will make your job (even in small job) very difficult. The problem is usually soldering flash light parts can require soldering iron with proper heat capability, such as when solder pad is on a metal pcb like on the led.
It expensive at beginning, but you may save you your project which may be damage. Please consider.
In fact I do all my normal soldering with a Antex XS25 with a pointy tip. Since I know how to keep the tip clean it has been working perfectly for years, for all jobs except the ones requiring lots of heat, like soldering ledwires on DTP-boards in a flashlight head cavity, for which I use an Antex 80W monster with chisel tip.
The Antex replaced a Weller solder iron that worked considerably less well so I sticked to the brand, but I must admit that in the Weller days I wasn’t as good in soldering and maintaining the tip.
I started like you, a USB/pocket/smaller iron and NOT a soldering station. However, I also found out that soldering is a skill that grows over time. A decent soldering station would’ve been the right investment at the beginning. But there is also no problem in owning multiple irons after all (ie one for the garage/car, one station for flashlights and electronics and 1 mobile unit).
This is the one I eventually bought, good enough for about 20 bucks.
In my opinion, any that you have linked in the op will do simple jobs but the 8w usb iron would be extremely low on power and only good for very small stuff.
The more power the better but add in temp control or some type of power control and things start to get more precise and work way easier, turning you into a soldering master.
Good recommendations in this thread if you can afford to spend a little more.
I am into electric powered radio control cars. When I got back into the hobby I purchased this HobbiCo 60 watt iron and it works surprisingly well. I see that you’re across the pond, but I would think you could get it over there as well.
It isn’t about how hot it gets but rather it’s ability to put heat to where you need it. In fact you do not want a super hot iron but rather an iron with an effective feedback loop that pumps power at a reasonable temperature.
The more mass the more power it will take. Same reason we have different btu heaters.
The more space the more btu’s it takes to heat it.
I get what your saying though the more massive the heating element the more reserve it has when applying heat to something else but general that means it needs more power to heat the more massive element.
I’m going to order one from Amazon even though it’s more expensive there. Customer service is important if there’s a problem. The included tip looks like crap. I’ll order a 10 pack of varied tips. BTW, I already own Weller and Hakko soldering stations. For the price, this looks like a real winner. Amazon
You’ve got me wondering now, if one could buy and use an actual Hakko or clone wand with that control unit because their wands are just a bit more ergonomic. Also, what is the maximum input voltage on one of those boards. When I’m in the field, I almost always have either 24vdc batteries or 28vdc power supplies.
Have you seen any knock offs of the FM-2030 and T22 tips? I’d love to play with one but the FM-206 is crazy expensive.
