Somebody has tested a fixed knife from fasttech that worth the money?

EDC Gear for Flashlight Carriers
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Somebody has tested a fixed knife from fasttech that worth the money?

I don’t like the fake knives (but i like if is a clone for 1/3 of the price if has the same quality). I saw a strider copy without logo for example (fasttech and others webs) and a video that the guy can’t destroy it with a 5KG hammer…

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I have one of these on the way. Hopefully it’s decent. Overall I’ve had decent luck with cheap fixed blade knives, but the sheaths all suck. Someday soon I’m going to buy the stuff to start making my own Kydex sheaths, which will solve that problem.

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1215601

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There’s a review on this fixed knife

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I was speaking about the strider clone knife:

http://www.fasttech.com/products/1901/10002792/1208202-440-fixed-blade-nylon-sheath-hunting-survival-tact

That buck, well who knows, 8cr13mov and well tempered? I think it’s too good steel for that price.

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I wonder how it holds up to prying tasks. I have a feeling it will bend (and possibly snap). I don’t want to support fakes though, so maybe someone else can try… :stuck_out_tongue:

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I have some experience with these Chinese knives. Yes they are well made but the steel used is not as good as top end knives like Cold Steel.

If you want good edge retention then you need steel with high carbon content. If you want good rust resistance then you need high chromium content. Many Chinese knife makers will label their steel as 440 steel. While this may be true, there are different types of 440 steel:

1)440A (a.k.a. X65CrMo14, 1.4109, SUS440A, Z70CD14, 7Cr17, 65X13, S44002, XT-​70, AUS60, 12C27, 12C27M): C= 0.65 - 0.75, Cr= 16 - 18;

2)440B (a.k.a. X90CrMoV18, X91CrMoV18, 1.4112, SUS440B, X90CrMoV18, X90CrMoV18, 8Cr17, 17042, X90CrMoV18, S44003, 2RO189, N685 EXTRA, R17X, R17X, RF90, RS11, Coracid4112, RM189, LO-​R 4112, OCR6, RFSh2, Korronit-​C, PMCo189, REMANIT4112, X90CrMoC18, NIROSTA4112, K90L, ARGESTE 1.4112): C= 0.75 - 0.95, Cr= 16 - 18;

3)440C (a.k.a. X105CrMo17, X90CrMoV18, 1.4125, SUS440C, Z100CD17, Z100CD13, X102CrMo17KU, 11Cr17, 9Cr18, 9Cr18Mo, 9Cr18MoV, 17042, S44004, N695, T10MO, CTS-​40CP, XT-​80, LO-​R 4125, RFSh6, 95X18): C= 0.95 - 1.20, Cr= 16 - 18;

All of the 440 series have the same Cr content but 440C has the highest Carbon content hence the best. They, like all stainless steel, are however very hard to heat-treat so you’ll have to rely on their carbon content for edge retention.

Many knives & swords in my country are made from spring steel - the leaf springs taken from junk vehicles. This steel is a.k.a. 5160 steel. While this type of steel has a bad resistance to rust (Cr= 0.7 - 0.9) and lower carbon content (C= 0.56 - 0.64) than the 440 series, it can be heat treated and when done properly, it has a very good edge retention.

I hope this helps. :slight_smile:

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any metallurgy experience? I haven’t seen anything lime that since my metallurgy class in jr college avaition school

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I don’t have any formal training on metallurgy, I got these figures through research. I’ve been obsessed with blades in the past and I spend most of my time in the web reading about knives, swords, the types of metals used and the different steel treatment methods. :slight_smile:

I have updated my signature links (they weren’t functioning properly before) and you may click the “My Blades” if you like. :slight_smile:

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Most of my blades are made out of premium steel 440C, ATS-34, 154cm, D2, M2 and S30V that are heat treated to a minimum of 60 Rockwell hardness. The 440(A) steel used on the knife that you are interested in is softer with a rockwell of 57. It is fine for everyday use but will need sharpening more often than the premium steels. The advantage of a softer steel is that it is easier to sharpen while the harder steels will take longer to sharpen or use a diamond sharpener which makes it easier.

Here are couple of my favorites:

[Benchmade 420 and Custom Marzitelli](<a) href=“Photo Storage | Photobucket target=“_blank”>

More custom Marzitelli knives:

[Custom Marzitelli](<a) href=“Photo Storage | Photobucket target=“_blank”>

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I got the Buck 009 knock-off, though I don’t see that there is a such thing as a genuine 009.

The sheath sucked as expected, but the knife itself is solid. Mine had the staining on the blade from the pictures on Fasttech, but they rubbed right off. The blade is nice and thick and has a big belly. The handle feels solid, though if I bend the blade as hard as I can, I can get a tiny bit of play in the guard. The blade came dull however. Overall I think this is going to be a good beater knife for camping and those times I don’t want to damage any of my good knives. It’s no ESEE or Becker, but it’s definitely worth 8 bucks and some change.

I’ll take some pictures later.

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This was the test video of the fake strider from fasttech…

Not all the fakes are equals…

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I also have the Buck 009 knockoff and quite like it. I bought it not expecting an extremely high quality knife but because I wanted something I could mistreat without worry and use for prying and other such tasks not suited to a ‘nice’ knife. My blade came dull too but without any staining. The box actually looked quite authentic. The holster however is useless and the strap/snap that wraps around the handle fell off after the second use. I wasn’t sure which would happen first, the snap ripping out of the strap or the strap separating from the sheath.

The fasttech pictures don’t show the back end of the knife well, but it is very thick. The almost 1/2lb rating in the specifications almost seems too low. The metal also seems high quality and at least from my use of it, not brittle.

At the same time I also bought this and it’s fantastic, not only for the price.
Mine came in a Buck box and laser engraved on one side of the knife it says “B U C K USA”. The other side has the markings BOS S30V 860->
I’m inclined to believe it’s a fake from small clues like the real one has a different symbol than the arrow, the holster on the real one is textured plastic vs a soft touch on mine, and the snap that holds the knife in the holster is taller and not rounded on the real one. Mine also shows obvious machining marks around the snap nub. Still, I think it is a good deal even at several dollars more than the asking price.

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I like that Buck 009 so much that I’ve decided to buy the real thing, the Vanguard. The fancy $70 one with the wood handle and brass bolsters. Amazon sells the sheath separately for about $10 and I’ll probably buy that, too, for the knockoff. It deserves its own sheath.

If it wasn’t for the terrible sheath and having the wrong markings on the blade, it would be very hard to tell it’s a fake just from holding the knife itself in my hand. Well, and maybe the fact that it came dull. It took about an hour to get it razor sharp by dragging it across a coffee cup :slight_smile: