Sunwayman V11R on Ebay, $18.99. 2 left.

As for Modding the current, all I have every done is change the sense resistor. I think stock its a .150 ohms, I have replaced it with a .100 ohms.
I never checked the before and after so I don’t know what it gained. I have tried to figure this driver out but never have. This post gives no detail to what exactly he did to get to 2 amps but list the 3 components he changed.

I have seen post where Vinh modded these lights to 2.8 amps but no one has ever let the secret out on what needs to be done.

Another old school feature of this light that some of us find appealing is the mechanical forward clicky switch. These things do momentary blinks in a way most modern lights can’t match (since they generally use reverse clickys to do modes).

Boring a V10/11R out to use 18xxx batteries has been mentioned, but I wouldn’t count on being able to get away with it. The body/tube/adapter wall thickness underneath the O-ring groves is already only about 1mm on the ones I’ve measured, so a ~2mm bore job could make a mess of the light.

It’s the magnetic control ring. There are 2 types, one is mode, the other is infinitely variable. This is the infinitely variable type.

Very practical in real life, fast to use, and also it’d be a fun toy.

But the most important variable is that it’s cheap. :slight_smile:

The XM-L is not the latest/most efficient emitter out there, but driven at just approx 500 lumens, it doesn’t really matter much in terms of heat or battery consumption.

:person_facepalming:

:smiley: :smiley:

I have seen post where they successfully bored V10Rti and V11R. It has to be bored to perfection, the slightest bit off and oops, you now have a hole in your light with a very thin wall. I have never tried to bore either one because of the risk factory to such a expensive good light.
If Sunwayman would only make this light again maybe 2 mm wider to use a 18350 and a updated led on copper with more output, I think they’d have a good seller on their hands. Just my opinion.

You guys can easily make a nice triple.

If you have the right tools.....unlike me

This is what I did a while ago : https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/33424

Wow……can it take 14500?

Yes! 14500 and AA

Mine arrived today.

I don’t have a battery at the office so can’t check it yet, but it looks like the real thing. Complete with the alternate titanium button the early version V11Rs came with.

I’m impressed. For $19 this was an amazing deal.

Got mine too, everything is good! Glad I jumped in! Now to play around with it a little bit before maybe bumping up the current just a little…

I would love to hear more about how to do this

Ha, I just got it and already replaced the XM-L2 cool white for a XP-L Hi 3A tint, Love it! A good thing is that it came with absolutely no glue on any of the threads I opened it up using just my fingers…

… do you need my address? :wink:

:heart_eyes:

Wow. My simple question got quite a lot of responses! Nice to hear everyone’s perspective on why they like this light…. :slight_smile:

I ordered it oct. 14 and received it yesterday the 16, the fastest shipping I never had. The only glue on the thread is on each side of the magnetic ring. It won’t be easy when I will have to relube it
Robert

Two more available @ $16.xx, ships from Calif? Seller in China, no previous sales or feedback.

The V11r should easily crack right open at the fins and ring. I did it with a tight twist of my fingers with little effort. The V10r was locktite shut so needed encouragement to open.

The ring pulls right off then but be careful… the two tiny magnets on the ring fall out easily so can be lost. Do it on a table. The magnets in the V10r never seemed to fall out like on the V11r.

mine supposedly shipped yesterday, from New Jersey, even though the ad says product is in Calif? Tracking says delivery will be next Tuesday? Fedex. Takes a whole week?
Zzzzzzzzzzzzzz.

It will most likely come early. Mine did.