Tangsfire C8 XM-L2 U3 Review

[Tom_E]

I'd guess maybe a XM-L2 U2 1A, maybe a XM-L2 T6 1A for this light's output I and others tested -- and I do agree, still, it's a decent light for the money. I did recommend it to friends, though I'd prefer a more standard C8 host, but their hard to find lately...

[unknown00101]

@unknown00101

@noravanq

I recently bought an UltraFire WF-502B CREE XM-L T6 from the Greed Pays thread Greed Pays ... .

Could someone give me an idea how the beam profile of this C8 would compare to that of the 502B? Would the hot spot be wider or narrower and by how much? Which one would have more flood/spill?

This is the particular one I got:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221335988921?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&\_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Thank you.

I can tell you for certain in about a week or so. I have one on the way and have the same 502b.

I imagine the hotspot will be tighter/smaller and thus throw quite a bit further. Probably a bit wider spill with similar brightness. Overall output will be substantially more with the C8, the actual amount will vary quite a bit depending on battery used.

Got my Tangsfire C8 in today.

502b isn’t really comparable to the C8.

502b is 2.55A +/- .2ish on unprotected vs protected 18650.
C8 is 3.55A on 4.14v unprotected NCR18650B 3400 (A little disappointing compared to what others are getting).

C8 has a little bit (maybe 10) tighter spill. The hotspot is roughly 60 tighter. The C8 has 3 separate rings in the beam. Central hotspot, middle ring, and outer spill ring. The tint in the C8 is much more favorable (imo) compared side by side. The 502B has a rather blueish tint.

$4 502B vs $13 C8
C8 wins overall imo, but the 502b has a smaller form factor, is very comfortable to carry, and definitely has its uses.

[Muto]

unknown00101 wrote;
“Got my Tangsfire C8 in today.
502b is 2.55A +/- .2ish on unprotected vs protected 18650.
C8 is 3.55A on 4.14v unprotected NCR18650B 3400 (A little disappointing compared to what others are getting).”

[/quote]

Solder some braid on the driver spring and that amperage will come up well over 4 amps. Mine has approached 5 amps and some crap started to smoke up off the dome of the LED, Smoking seemed to stop after a short time so I really think it was just some dirt/etc. I have since used a battery with more resistance to lower the power a tad to be safe.
Eventually it will get a Copper Sinkpad and new emitter.
HTH

Keith

[BLightSam]

@Muto

… Solder some braid on the driver spring and that amperage will come up well over 4 amps.

What material is the braid? Pic of the driver spring w/ braid?

[relic38]

Solder braid is made of copper, here’s a how-to:

How-To: Add Copper Braid to Springs

I have been meaning to do this post for a while, so here it finally is. How to add copper braid to a tail (or driver) spring. [image] This mod reduces the resistance of the spring significantly, especially steel springs. This may not make a big improvement on a brass spring, unless you plan to push some real serious current. J) OK, Here's what you need: [image] Tailcap with a spring in it (driver springs need love and attention too). Side-cutters Tweezers Copper braid, the type with no …

I’ve ordered one of these, you know, because I do not have enough C8s already

[unknown00101]

@BLightSam

@Muto

… Solder some braid on the driver spring and that amperage will come up well over 4 amps.

What material is the braid? Pic of the driver spring w/ braid?

Copper,

How-To: Add Copper Braid to Springs

I have been meaning to do this post for a while, so here it finally is. How to add copper braid to a tail (or driver) spring. [image] This mod reduces the resistance of the spring significantly, especially steel springs. This may not make a big improvement on a brass spring, unless you plan to push some real serious current. J) OK, Here's what you need: [image] Tailcap with a spring in it (driver springs need love and attention too). Side-cutters Tweezers Copper braid, the type with no …

I just found it a bit disappointing because I was expecting 4A+ stock.

Edit: relic beat me by seconds!

[Muto]

@BLightSam

@Muto

… Solder some braid on the driver spring and that amperage will come up well over 4 amps.

What material is the braid? Pic of the driver spring w/ braid?

This is the stuff;
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062744#
Or here;
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1004/10002730/1202500

Sorry, I don’t have a picture of it installed.
Look here for details on spring braiding ;

How-To: Add Copper Braid to Springs

I have been meaning to do this post for a while, so here it finally is. How to add copper braid to a tail (or driver) spring. [image] This mod reduces the resistance of the spring significantly, especially steel springs. This may not make a big improvement on a brass spring, unless you plan to push some real serious current. J) OK, Here's what you need: [image] Tailcap with a spring in it (driver springs need love and attention too). Side-cutters Tweezers Copper braid, the type with no …

Thanks,
Keith

Edit, Damn you guys are quick!

[BLightSam]

As somebody said, “Damn you guys are quick!” Thanks for the responses.

Asked about the braiding thinking that no delicate soldering is required, thus even I can do it, my first ever modding. Cursory reading of the linked posts confirms that (even though tad more involved than I first visualized). Will order the braid first and mull over the soldering. Again, thanks for the ‘damn quick’ responses!

[DayLighter]

dang… that desoldering stuff from radio shack is mad expensive… you can get 2 of those for half price from fasttech.
but then again… you get it right away though

[noravanq]

I got my light today. It looks really bright.

I was surprised to see it has next mode memory. Others here were saying it always should start on high. IMHO, next mode memory is the worst kind of them all.

[unknown00101]

@noravanq

I got my light today. It looks really bright.

I was surprised to see it has next mode memory. Others here were saying it always should start on high. IMHO, next mode memory is the worst kind of them all.

I checked mine, and thought you performed some sort of bad juju curse upon it because it too was showing next mode memory.

But a few more tests later I found that the reset to high is approximately 8 seconds once turned off (Which is very slow compared to my other lights, normally it is around 2-4 seconds).

[jmpaul320]

i am impressed with mine

i had a spare ucl i installed too

a good light for the price

[noravanq]

@unknown00101

@noravanq

I got my light today. It looks really bright.

I was surprised to see it has next mode memory. Others here were saying it always should start on high. IMHO, next mode memory is the worst kind of them all.

I checked mine, and thought you performed some sort of bad juju curse upon it because it too was showing next mode memory.

But a few more tests later I found that the reset to high is approximately 8 seconds once turned off (Which is very slow compared to my other lights, normally it is around 2-4 seconds).

That’s great! I checked mine again after seeing your comment, and you are absolutely right. It acts like a next-mode memory when you don’t wait before switching it on again, but turns on high if you wait long enough.

I am really impressed with both the throw and very useful spill.

[noravanq]

Does this light have a low voltage cutoff or a low voltage warning? Doesn’t seem to be indicated anywhere.

Thanks.

[noravanq]

From green protected panasonic ncr18650b my light measures as follows
High: 2.6amps
Mid: 1.0amps
Lo: 0.18amps
using a $20 craftsman DMM.

The cables are 2-3 feet long, and 18awg.

[unknown00101]

@noravanq

From green protected panasonic ncr18650b my light measures as follows
High: 2.6amps
Mid: 1.0amps
Lo: 0.18amps
using a $20 craftsman DMM.

The cables are 2-3 feet long, and 18awg.

Mine pull somewhere around 3.2A on protected iirc which is still comparatively low to other’s readings. I believe your leads may be limiting your readings though. I’m using 10gauge a bit over a foot long.

[saypat]

@noravanq

From green protected panasonic ncr18650b my light measures as follows
High: 2.6amps
Mid: 1.0amps
Lo: 0.18amps
using a $20 craftsman DMM.

The cables are 2-3 feet long, and 18awg.

My readings are very similar! $5 meter off E-Bay, but replaced the leads. I am not into the ‘numbers’ but am very happy with this purchase and its’ performance. Hoo-yah!

[freeme (youtube.com/@1thedeals)]

Just received my Tangsfire pairs. Here are my rough results (stock).

Mode	Unit1 (A)	Unit2 (A)
H	3.24	2.62
M	1.3	0.97
L	0.23	0.14

Two of them yield rather different results using same NCR18650B unprotected 3400mAh@4.16V

Over-rated product?

[FlashPilot]

Damn! I hate the fact that they cant built a descent 92 driver any more! WHAT IS WRONG WITH THESE PEOPLE!!!??? |(

… thanks for posting your results.

[freeme (youtube.com/@1thedeals)]

Both of my units have dirty dome. Requires some cleaning.

@Muto

unknown00101 wrote;
“Got my Tangsfire C8 in today.
502b is 2.55A +/- .2ish on unprotected vs protected 18650.
C8 is 3.55A on 4.14v unprotected NCR18650B 3400 (A little disappointing compared to what others are getting).”

Solder some braid on the driver spring and that amperage will come up well over 4 amps. Mine has approached 5 amps and some crap started to smoke up off the dome of the LED, Smoking seemed to stop after a short time so I really think it was just some dirt/etc. I have since used a battery with more resistance to lower the power a tad to be safe.
Eventually it will get a Copper Sinkpad and new emitter.
HTH

Keith
[/quote]