Tear Down: Sofirn K03 (less nice now)

LED Flashlights – General Info CR123A Flashlights
1

Update:

Hi folks,

Just got a tiny light in, it was too cheap to not buy… :person_facepalming: :partying_face:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/K03-Mini-LED-Flashlight-EDC-Compact-Pocket-Light-3-Modes-Penlight-300LM-LED-Torcia-Light-with/32801331611.html

Looks nice, doesn’t it?
Okay, the picture is edited a little, which is basically misleading, but none the less, it’s a reasonable representation of the actual item.

So it has 3 modes, the obvious high - low - strobe with visible PWM on low.
Mine has NO next mode memory though.
A somewhat greenish tinted fake XP-E, but not too cold.
It came in a cardboard box with padding, 2 spare O-rings and a tiny keychain clasp thingy.

Anyway, it’s a tear down, so here are the parts:

Parts list, from top left to bottom right:

- aluminum switch retaining ring :+1: (no pressed in plastic nightmare)

- decent rubber switch boot

- switch (reverse clicky) it’s crap…[/EDIT]

- decent tail spring

- plastic switch and spring holder

- the battery tube (CR123A or 16340)

  • silicone wires (they’re quite thin, but they’re silicone. :stuck_out_tongue: )

- aluminum driver retaining ring :+1:

- 17 mm driver board (but it’s a crappy driver, should be replaced)

- head

- aluminum LED shelf (1mm thick but it’s obviously better than nothing)

- LED on thin (1 mm) 16 mm diameter aluminum board (crappy LED, should be replaced)

- LED / reflector gasket.

- Aluminum OP reflector :+1:

- O-ring

- Glass lens :+1: (not coated)

  • Stainless steel bezel [EDIT] Newer version have an anodized aluminum bezel… :frowning: [/EDIT]

So basically it’s all quite good.
The anodizing looks good too, so does the machining.
I was surprized by the SS bezel and the switch assembly with the black anodized alu retaining ring.
There’s a little too much room between switch boot and switch button so it’s a bit mushy feeling, but nothing that can’t be solved.

I paid less than $ 4 for this little light.
Yes, it has to be modified with a better LED and driver, but that’s the hobby i.m.o.
So i thought i’d share this with you.
(I’ll probably put in a 3x 7135 driver and 4000K 219C with a diffuser behind the lens.)

Thanks for reading. :slight_smile:

2

Nice teardown …. looks like it’s put together fairly decently. A couple upgrades and away you go.

3

Thanks for the review! The anodizing looks way above its price; is it like that in reality, not just in the pictures?

4

The top picture is from the seller.
It’s edited to look better / smoother than in real life.
But the real thing has proper anodizing too.
Time will tell if it wears down easily or not.

5

Like it! A cheap, small light with tail switch.
Thanks.

6

Thanks for the review. For four dollars you usually regret spending that much. :beer:

7

Yeah, i was looking for one of those twisty 123A lights, which are even cheaper, but they all look very cheaply made.
This K03 is quite a nice host for the money i.m.o.

8

Thanks for the sharing of this light. :+1:

9

pardon if this was covered, but - simple question:

does it cutoff when the cell voltage gets too low?

does it also let non-rechargeables go all the way to 0V?

(the old XTAR WK42 did this, when you put in a new cell, it looks at voltage and decides if this is rechargeable or not. if it is, then it cuts off at at 2V or so. otherwise it lets non-rechargeable go all the way to 0V)

wle

10

I don’t know, wle.
But it’s a linear driver, so the party is over before you discharge a 16340 too far.

11

good point, jerommel

this light [i got one] is good enough for the price

i was annoyed at myself though

i thought it had L M H for some reason

instead it is like all super cheap lithium-ion-capable lights - H L BlinkyUseless.$#$#$&%&

oh well
my bad
not sure why i thought it was H M L

(is it so expensive to do L M H?
if i am using a tiny battery, i don;t want to use H or M unless necessary
what about HML for AAA lights, they all seem to be one level except lumintop, who annoyingly does M L H)

—this is what i reviewed it, on aliexpress:
——
it is pretty good for the low price - LED color is cool white, nice whitish tint - no purple or green - always starts on HIGH, i would rather it start on LOW, - i don’t like strobe mode at all but the cheap ones always have it - light is well made, good quality, i think it is probably waterproof just not for diving - it does not produce 300 lumens with a CR123 battery - probably needs 16340 li- ion for that - pattern is ok, has a hot spot in center, with some usable spill - it COULD be shorter with a TIR optic, instead of reflector and glass- overall GOOD FOR THE PRICE….
—-

wle

12

Good host.
I changed LED to cree xm-l2 u3 1b. Driver from Convoy 4*7135 with new firmware. TIR lens 17 mm 20°.
Small bright thing :slight_smile:

13

TMW [ too much work :slight_smile: ]

14

5-10 minutes. And someone here is too lazy :wink:

15

I wish it didn’t need so much work. Poor driver and a non CREE kinda kills it for me. Although I would pay $10 for an XPG2 and a better driver.

Maybe they will listen.

16

I changed the second flashlight like this: LED cree xp-g2 r5 4c, driver from convoy.
$2 flashlight, $0.8 led, $1.5 driver. 5 minutes and lot of fun :slight_smile:

17

Nice looking, very cheap, and if you look closely
That is a geniue cree xpg, not a lattice bright !

18

It’s not a Cree. (at least, mine wasn’t).

19

Just wanted to say that the switch in this thing totally sucks.
It has to be replaced.
(ymmv)

20

:+1:
I put a 4000K Nichia E21AT sm403-D200-M1-R9080 in it with a 30° (i think) pebbled TIR on a single mode boost driver (for CR123A) at around 2.5 Watts (estimate) and it’s just lovely.
I replaced the switch though, because it was horrible…