Hi treellama.
Would like to thanks for your contribution to crescendo.
It’s useful to have blinks to sinalise when a channel top value is reached.
Now it is easy to visually set the power level from the driver.
Crescendo was already interesting, and with this adon it became my favorite firmware for clicky lights.
I hope I’m not bugging you all too much, but here is the latest issue I’m having. This happens with both a bistro flashed MCU and a guppydrv flashed MCU from MTN. Any ideas what’s going on?
Very strange, It seems like there is really high resistance or something. Almost seems like all the power is trying to go through a resistor or something, which is really odd.
Just wanted to give my long-term experience with this driver. A TA driver has been working relentlessly in my Convoy S2+ triple for 8 months:
the light had falls/drops, was hit by an alloy wheel once, was lost for 4 days in my car (during the summer), forgot to charge the light several times, and was really used…
… everything still works!
Quality driver! Thanks to everyone involved, especially TA!
This has happened on the last two I’ve built. I’m really not sure where to go from here. I found the stumble in shorts, and making sure I’m flashing right/ using a known good mcu… I really don’t want to give up! I’m using a 19.1k resistor on R1. Any chance a 22k could fix the issue? Or am i just totally lost. Should I switch C1 to an 0603 instead of 0805? I’m sure those are terrible ideas; any ideas for what kind of troubleshooting can I do to try to get this thing going?
This is a bigger issue then a minor change in components. It is like a component is in the wrong place or a diode is in the wrong direction.
I would try removing the bleeder resistor to start with, see if that makes any change.
I got rid of the BR on both these that I just tried today. Anything else I could do?
At this point the only real option is to get the multi-meter out and start probing.
It will take some basic understanding on the circuit to probe it properly though.
Start out by making sure the MCU is getting the correct voltage and then that it is putting out the correct voltage to the 7135’s and FET.
Thanks again, I’ll keep tinkering away and see what the multi-meter tells me!
I’m seeing 5+ volts on the power supply and no current flow, might be better to test with a protected cell instead.
Try using shorter and bigger wires and eliminate as many alligator clips as you can.
The diode test function on a multimeter can be used to drive the gate terminal on 7135’s and fet’s with the driver powered up. I prefer to put the positive lead on the outputs at the attiny, less risk of shorting things out if the probe slips. The negative lead can be connected to ground anywhere convenient. Keep an eye on the meter display. If a channel doesn’t light up and the voltage is close to zero there is a short somewhere. OL means the gate has lost connection somewhere.
If all the channels light up something is going on with the attiny.
It works with my convoy drivers. It says that when it turns on initially but it’s set at 4v. Would an protected cell still help you think? Thank you for the tips on the DMM. I was just gonna be doing a lot of trial and error with working and non working driver so that helps a lot!
I suspect the voltage spike is really fast and higher than what is displayed. It might be causing brain cramps in the attiny or possibly damaging components.
Also not sure how well the power supply can deal with the inductive spikes created when the fet turns off. It may create a lot of electrical noise.
I have a reylight 2.1 which came with a TA driver. I want to add auxillary lighting from Lexel. Anyone know if I can aux support?
It uses a 17mm TA driver as the base with a slight modification to the size to fit the light. So you should be able to do anything with it you could do with a normal 17mm TA driver.
Thanks! Does it have an optic nerve resistor? That’s how I tap into the fw3a driver to add aux support.
Optic nerve resistor? I have never heard of that.
It has a bleeder resistor pad, which is what we have used for adding tailcap lighting in the past.
I’ll see if I can use that then. Provides enough power like 3v and at least 1mah?
It is a direct connection to V+ and ground, so it will provide as much power as you want lol.
On the 18mm driver, which pad do I solder pos/neg leads to for the aux lighting? Or refer me to schematic orndiagram where I can visually see this awesomesauce?
I am not sure what pads people are using now days, it depends on the aux lighting you are using I assume.
The simplest option is the BR pads, the one closer to the center is V+ and the one next to the 7135 is ground. You will need to limit the current via a separate resistor of course.