Sorry, I meant something that I probably have… somewhere… but forgot about.
I was sure it was an older Sofirn/Wurkkos that was (maybe) a 21700 version of an even older 18650 light. Maybe an ‘S’ or “pro” version of the OG or something like that.
Just can’t jiggle my memory enough to shake it loose. I hear something rattling around in there, but not what I need.
Sofirn SP35, Wurkkos TS22 ?
Ah, maybe the SP35… I’ll have to goggle it and see if that’s on my list, tnx!
Will those on KD fit this [clone] with AL pill (Superhelle LED-Taschenlampe, 5 Beleuchtungsmodi, LED-Taschenlampe für nächtliche Camping, Wandern, Jagd und Indoor-Aktivitäten, ohne Batterie - AliExpress 39)?
What is stupid questions?
How do we know they don’t exist?
Look my eyes hurt, head hurts, I can’t read another listing. I just want the brightest/ frugal/ best torch I can’t seem to find in an endless maze of tech I don’t understand from a sea of sharps. !@#$, y’all, can this be simpler? Help is welcome.
Spend as long as it takes to look up everything on this list that got at least 2 votes. Or at a minimum read all of the posts after that page and most people explain what and why they like the lights listed. There is no shortcut when you don’t have a clue and you don’t know what you want.
Then come back and ask a real question.
A pretty good and inexpensive flashlight !
Wurkkos FC11C Nichia 519A Powerful 18650 Flashlight, USB C Rechargeable,Buck Circuit 1200Lumens with Magnetic Tail
7034 Sold
https://wurkkos.com/products/wurkkos-fc11c-nichia-519a-buck-circuit-flashlight
Thanks
Here’s my question. Back when the LED was becoming common the switches were in the tail cap and they stayed that way until I stopped buying lights about 5 years ago. Apparently that was the best place for them and if you didn’t like it you could buy something much dimmer. Now the switches are on the side in many lights, why did this change?
Tailswitches are typically mech switches.
Sideswitches are typically e-switches.
There are exceptions that tailswitches can also be e-switches, either with a driver in the tailcap itself, or an internal conductive sleeve between cell and body.
Definitely not a stupid question. I am not an expert on the subject but I think there are at least a couple of reasons for the change. First designing a light that has a driver that requires an “E” switch (which a majority of more recent drivers do) on the side and close to the driver is just easier. Less wire fewer complications. In some designs the switch is actually part of the driver assembly. As @Lightbringer bringer mentions, with a tail E-Switch a second path for the signal must be provided. More wiring, or a tube within a tube design results (or driver in the tail cap of course).
Second is that it seems that lots of people prefer side switches. As much as I like tail switches, a side switch generally allows easier one handed operation.
For me though, side switches have the downside of something being hard to find on the darn light. With lots of lights around, some don’t get used that much. I can pick on of those up in a low light situation and fumble around for quite a while finding the darn switch. as is sometimes said YMMV.
Well. This is actually a good question, where one can deep-dive into how flashlights work 
Back in the incandescent days flashlights usually only had one mode - either on or off. So they had a simple on/off clicky switch in the tailcap.
Then LEDs came, and things stayed that way for a while.
But people realized, since you need electronics to regulate the LEDs and keep them from frying anyway, why not make them controlled brightness. Also, LEDs marked a huge jump in brightness, so suddenly flashlights could be too bright for many occasions. They needed a way to control brightness with the button.
And suddenly the simple on-off switches were a problem. How do you control brightness with a switch that can do only on and off?
Companies found 2/3 solutions:
One: The light can discern between being turned off just for a split second, and being turned off for longer, and interpret the short ones as “he wants to change brightness”. Convoy mainly does this until today, with a single clicky switch in the tailcap. Very robust and simple concept, easy to understand and use, but limited in terms of features.
Two: Keep the electronics always powered on, and have a digital push button where the driver can discern short and long presses, multiple fast taps etc and turn them into whatever the software wants. This gives you a lot more freedom, but has a problem: The battery tube of the light is already needed to get the negative pole towards the front of the light. How do you also get the digital button signal to the front? So multiple solutions were born, mainly either putting the button in the front (where the driver is), or putting the driver in the back where the button is (bit of a pain from an engineering perspective), or use 2 battery tubes inside one another, where one is for the button and one for power (for example: Sofirn SC33, Lumintop FW series, Wurkkos TS10 series, and many others).
Three: Have one digital button in the front to change brightness, AND an additional clicky style switch in the back, just to turn on/off. Many tactical torches use this and it is pretty cool.
When LEDs were new to me and a lot of others the extra light was really appealing but no one had a reason that I could remember as to why the switch was on the tail cap. And some people that were used to the AA Maglights tried twisting the head to no avail or were looking for a switch on the side like a lot of us that grew up using manual transmissions did while trying to press the non-existent clutch pedal after switching to a car with an automatic transmission.
Mechanically and electrically easy to do. Plentiful options for either forward or reverse clicky switches were/are available. Plus in the perfect place when using several of the common grips used for a flashlight. Also, you always know exactly where it is. I even added tail switches to all of the mini mag lights that I have had over the years. FWIW
Recent Anduril hex-files have size of about 31KB. But when I write firmware to an MCU and read it back it takes only ~11KB.
Is this normal or am I doing something wrong ? Is it safe to flash such truncated hex to MCU ?
UPD:
OK, so the data was saved in bin format instead of hex. Are those formats interchangeable and I can store backups in BINs ?
Basically, .bin would store data as
ABCDabcd
whereas .hex would store it as
4142434461626364
or
41 42 43 44 61 62 63 64
depending. Might even have an address where to load it, prepended on each line. Dunno if things are more “standardised” nowadays, but way back when, they were more conventions than standards.
Haven’t looked at the official .hex files, so dunno which.
Thank you. I’ve googled a bit and managed to compare contents of two versions of firmware (bin and hex) in hex values and they match (of course they do).
My question arised after reading a remark on some arduino forum that hex is preferable over bin due to lack of addresses in latter and some cross-platforming related reasons. I guess it doesn’t matter in my case.
Depends on the application.
I used to grab video boards, dump the ROM(s), extract and replace the hardcoded fonts, tweak the checksums, then write them back, so I wouldn’t have to use software/in-memory font-changers. (Change/Reset the video mode, and it reverts back to the hardcoded ones. 
)
16bit boards were more fun, as I’d have to split’n’shuffle from 2 ROMs instead of just 1.
But those were absolute, just based on the ROM’s/ROMs’ contents.
Sometimes you want to “overwrite” or “overlay” in certain sections only, so I could have the whole dump, the separate font-data contents (8x8/8x14/8x16/9x16), and only “overwrite” them in-place by simply appending the added text at the end. Converting to a .bin, it did everything just as expected, copying the original stuff, then overwriting the added stuff in the proper place, because it had the addresses on each line to overwrite.
So I could have the .bin of purely binary data.
Or the address-less .hex file that’s already been overlaid, merged, and that’s just a hex copy of the binary data.
Or the with-address .hex file that just has the OG data with “addendum” tacked onto the end.
As long as I could get back to the .bin to just throw at the EPROM-cooker, I was good.
Close!
Found an old SP33, a 26650 light, and it actually fits! Slips right in, just is a bit tall so the flap doesn’t 100% cover the velcro, but it’s close enough.
Inside sleeve lets me stick a spare 18650, so that’s fine.
As far as I can tell, it’s longpress on/off, and click for 5 brightness levels. That’s it.
[Ach, discovered it’s 2click for lockout, 3click for strobe.]
Hey, it works for me, though!
I must’ve been monkeying with it for some reason, as it was dead as anything, but then… huh… whut’s this thin golden ring on the floor? Yeah, retaining ring for the driver. Was going crazy trying to screw it back in 'til I ran my thumbnail in the thread and twisted… left-hand thread!
So, screwed it in somehow, snugged it up, works fine.
Forgot I even had it. Must’ve been a real old-timer.
So, at least I won’t be losing any lights from slipping through the gap on the holster. That would, like, suck.
Oof. This puppy’s from 2017!