Looks nice! The original H503 is almost like a mule… which has its uses, but the aspherical lens gives it better use as a task light. I’m ordering a bunch of different lenses off AE, since they’re not terribly expensive (a mix of some in glass, others in acrylic).
What component is used for driving the LED in the lights with dimming capabilities?
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The tailcap on the Acebeam Pokelit AA is definitely not removeable.
Tks for your answer.
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Is it just me, or is a Convoy M3-C a better buy than the Acebeam P17 unless you want the dual tailswitch “tactical” interface? The P17 and P18 are beautiful but I’m trying to be objective about whether or not it makes sense to buy one.
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It’s hard to beat the “value for money” of Convoy flashlights.
(I don’t know about the Convoy M3-C or Acebeam P17/P18, but I really like Convoy in general.) 
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For the majority of the lights I use, the MCU(ATTiny) and FET/Regulators are responsible with something called PWM(Pulse Width Modulation).
Basically it’s turning the LED on and off so fast it’s imperceptible to the human eye.
I know there’s a million threads on here regarding DIY 17mm FET+1 drivers but all of the ones I’ve found are from 2014/2016.
I’d like a link to one that is designed with components that are still available at Digikey or Mouser.
A post with a list of components is preferred.
I don’t have a reflow oven so I’ll need it to be single sided so I can use a hotplate.
Okay, here’s a couple of questions that I’ve been thinking about.
What runs hotter at 100% (a.k.a. turbo), an SFT40 emitter or an XHP70.3 HI emitter?
And by how much does the hotter one run?
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Hmm. Not an easy one to figure out. One is a 3V emitter with a 1.2°C/W rating that maxes around 6A. The other is a 6V emitter with a 0.5°C/W rating that datasheet-maxes at 7.2A but can take more. They’re both hot-binned at 85°C so that’s sorta helpful. Even removing as many variables as you can this isn’t easy to figure out (and using the same driver is not possible here, so efficiencies there complicate things considerably). Perhaps decide whether you want to test with current or measured lumen output. If the latter then the 70.3 probably runs cooler, but either one will quickly saturate a like-for-like mcpcb and host and just overwhelm the heat/power dissipation (like most of our lights). At a certain light output they’re both going to be running different voltage and that one doesn’t seem straightforward to math out. Binning will heavily influence this as well, and any limitations imposed by the battery. Maybe one of the circuit wizards will drop by with a solid answer. 
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How do you post a video with this new format?
Thx
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Just copy and paste the YouTube link in the reply section and automatically becomes video, the same thing is with links with photos and gifs !
My video isn’t on youtube. It’s from my Google photos. Okay I got it. I copy and pasted from my Google photo options…thx
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A new BLF user (hrs old) wants to buy a light I have for sale and their lack of reputation here makes me nervous. Is there a way I can complete this sale and protect myself from being cheated?
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Old school wait-til-the-payment-clears or use Paypal or similar with instant transactions and protection mechanisms. Use the normal “goods and services” instead of “friends and family” or whatever they’re labeled now, but that’s not super important since you are the seller/receiver in this case. Take photos of the light, packaging, box/label, and drop it off in person so you can get a printed receipt. As a buyer, I feel more at risk with these things than I ever have as a seller…that changes a little if you are a professional seller/business.
With the goods and services there is a nominal fee (like 3% still I think) - it’s pennies for most sales. You can either eat that or tack it on to the price so he know’s he’s covering that in the purchase.
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Is there a way to modify the Tracking/Watching status of threads en masse? I am currently “watching” every thread I ever made on the old BLF site. I would like to switch them all to Normal status.
I would ask Watching Threads in another thread e.g. here:
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Why does the metal strap that secures the battery in an automobile develop corrosion similar to that which develops on a terminal?
It’s close to the battery vents. The vent gas is corrosive and reacts with the metal.
Leastwise that’s my thoughts.
All the Best,
Jeff
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Thanks for the comeback, Jeff. I was beginning to wonder if I was being shunned.