I ordered a 219C from Richard and had time to put it in this weekend. I figured with the lower Vf of the Nichia, that the driver might work even better and boy does it ever. Oddly, my amp draw went down about .1 amps but my light output increased enough that one can see the difference! I had it and a stock unit side by side and what a difference! I did loose a tiny bit of the tightness of the hot spot, but it was worth it to warm the beam up and gain some output.
I also took a good pic of the driver while it was apart. I would love to find a source for these, I really do not want to convert to 3.7v only drivers in the 2 newest ones that I have. I would hate to have to steal the driver from one for another light...
It still has fairly strong PWM, but I am willing to overlook that since I do not really look for it and do not really see it unless I try. On low, it does not pass the pee test. In the middle of the night, when up for a head call the PWM is visible.
I will say, it is one of my favorite drivers for 1aa/14500 use.
I have tried to buy drivers from Thorfire, only to be told they do not make them or sell them. So, I asked if they would provide the name of the supplier so that maybe a buy could be put together, but they would not provide that either. Bummer, I would hate to have to rob parts from a working TG06 to work on one of my other AA lights.
I just do not understand the problem with building a decent AA/14500 driver that boosts and bootstraps the CPU and supplies decent current to the LED. These little guys get about 2 amps at the tailcap and really work well.
Another option with 17mm I’ve found at Randar (somebody here at BLF said that their “14500” Model RA-800 with electronic side switch will get AA capability soon) is this driver:
Perhaps they are willing to sell the new RA-800 driver too, if ready…
$5 per piece isn’t that much of a bargin though, if one consider that the complete SecurityIng SG7 is sold for about $11 at the moment.
But - that may be the fate of the modder - parts bought separately will be more expensive in many cases…
You were definitely right in your assessment of this. My light quit. I believe my driver twisted, or I tightened the retaining ring to tight, and ripped the insulation on the led - wire. Replaced the wire, but still no light. I tested with a AAA battery pack, and the LED lights from BAT + (spring pad)) to LED - on the driver, I accidentally touched ground to the current resister and I got both light and modes. So the driver appears to be working. I am not getting current to the BAT - ring. The only component that has continuity to the - ring is the single pin side of Q2, and has AOGC written on it. Not sure what that is. Anyone have any ideas? Beautiful picture of driver by Mattlward in post 114 Tried to copy that to this post, but I can’t
Thanks
I have upgraded the LED’s in all of mine, but have not touched the drivers. I really like the driver that this light uses, especially the V2 version. Very good output on both AA and 14400, I do wish it had memory. I doubt that I will go strictly 3.7v on any of them. I have used the V1 driver in a couple of old stainless UltraFire lights and it really works well in them.
Can’t help with troubleshooting on them, I have not broken any of my drivers yet!
I got it working again. AO6B (Q2) in your picture appears to be the culprit. It provides ground to the outer ring. It started working for a bit while I was chasing around with my DMM, I was getting continuity from the upper right pin to the ground pin, and then it quit again. I soldered a bridge from R1 to the ground ring and it seems to work fine. Current measurements all appear to be the same.
If someone would explain the purpose of Q2, i would consider sourcing a replacement, otherwise I’ll just let it ride.
I have a TG 06 ready to mod (I think it’s already dead). It worked just a few seconds with 14500 and then…nothing.
Now no works with AA/14500 anymore :-((
So I imagine the led blow up. Can you suggest please the easy way to mod it? Maybe must find a star with already the led, and then try to soldering the wire?
I woul like to order from Fasttech…any suggestions? Thank you
If you have a way to test the LED, I would do that first. I just use something like this Battery holder that I have around. If it worked, and then didn’t work like mine, it is likely a different issue.