Does anyone know if this light has low voltage protection?
And yes H/M/L and I hate that!
Matt
Dang, that's weird then. Two variations of the new version... Not sure bout the LVP - would have to test it.
Testing now.
I ran mine on a 14500 until it was fairly dim, in medium mode. It may have stepped down, or just gotten very low and I am not sure which was the case. But, I measured the battery and found it to only have 2.56 volts left. So, I am making the assumption that it has no LVP!
Now the next question, why will an Xtar protected battery not work in the light? It does not trip the protection, I can pull it out and put it in another light and it is fine!
Any ideas???
Matt
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I have the old version of this light (ordered from Banggood just last month, and am getting one (hopefully the latest version) from Amazon (Thorfire’s private stock?) tomorrow (Saturday).
I will report back with my impressions later, after I have had some time to sort it all out.
Many thanks for all that are posting in this thread! - Change the UI to to Start in Low, and then L-M-H (with memory), and I think that this light could be what Convoy (Simon) needs to do with his line 
My ‘old’ version of this light is a really great quality light, but for the UI sequence. - It Starts in LOW, But then gets Worse from there, going to HI,and then Medium 
That Sucks! - Both of these versions are not as good as they could be, IMO, of course…
PLEASE, Thorfire, lets START in Low, and then Medium, and then and, only then High! - Please! - Is that so hard for you to do?
Thank you very much,
-Chuck
PS - Thanks for the no Disco modes! - I’m too damn old to Disco 
I was able to disassemble the head, much to my surprise the driver is not soldered in! The LED is not glued down, some white heat conductive paste was used. I would like to get my hands on a couple of these drivers. And, yes they are 16.52mm.
I took mine apart last night too. You don't mention or picture it, but there is a nice brass retaining ring that threads down on the driver, securing the driver to the pill by force only, making a solid electrical path for batt-. The LED wires are 26 AWG.
To me, this works, but some components are probably up against the brass pill edge - ok if no harm, potentially bad though. I much prefer the old model in it's pill design, as shown in my pics in post #52 above. The old pill had a conventional pill design, where you had 2 slots to use to tighten it in place, and had to solder the driver in. The new design requires no soldering, but nothing to grab on to for tightening the pill. Think I used a pair of needlenose with thin tips to grab the lip of the pill. Also the new pill is very shallow compared to the old one - not sure if I can get a copper disc in there.
I'd have to take a better look at it, but I'm afraid a driver upgrade may be risky because of driver component clearances - shorts against the lip of the pill. Possibly a 15mm driver may fit. If nothing is easy to work out, might just punt on the driver upgrade and stay with the stock one - at least it will have standard AA and NiMH capability. I like the neutral, or close to neutral tint and power the XP-G2 has though, so may transfer it to a Noctigon, or use a XP-L on copper in it's place. For 2A or higher, DTP copper MCPCB's have advantages.
Note: in the pic above, there are either strands of wire, or other filaments coming off the LED- wire. If they are strands, that's bad - you should fix that before re-assembly. They could ground out on the brass pill.
Yes, I clipped them before I put it back together.
Some pics of the differences between old and new (old on left, new on right in all pics).
pill to reflector parts:
Thicker pill square threads on the new version, but shorter/smaller pill:
Thicker body tube square threads (head ends) on the new version:
Thicker body tube square threads (tail ends) on the new version:
Close-up view of the pill square threads:
Under a UV light with normal light source (neutrals shine with an orange glow, cool whites are white to yellow):
Under a UV light in the dark (neutrals shine with an orange glow, cool whites are white to yellow):
Got my Amazon version today (new version) - same UI as the new BG one: starts in Hi, but lo->med->hi ordering. The tint is again, different though. The BG one has the reddish tint of a "D" tint, like 2D or 3D, while the Amazon is definitely more pure white, maybe 3A, 3B or 3C - more neutral than the cool white of the old versions.
Awesome breakdown! Too bad about the smaller pill. Hopefully I can find a compatible circuit.
Btw, what size is the LED board?
Thanks! Standard 16mm MCPCB fits.
Does anybody know about valid deals on the new TG06?
I ordered a 219C from Richard and had time to put it in this weekend. I figured with the lower Vf of the Nichia, that the driver might work even better and boy does it ever. Oddly, my amp draw went down about .1 amps but my light output increased enough that one can see the difference! I had it and a stock unit side by side and what a difference! I did loose a tiny bit of the tightness of the hot spot, but it was worth it to warm the beam up and gain some output.
I also took a good pic of the driver while it was apart. I would love to find a source for these, I really do not want to convert to 3.7v only drivers in the 2 newest ones that I have. I would hate to have to steal the driver from one for another light...
It definitely would be nice to have a source for those drivers.
Thanks, I saw that, but I think thats the old version…
Does the new version of the ThorFire TG06 do anything to change the PWM that was observable in the first?
Missed the part about new version, sorry.
It still has fairly strong PWM, but I am willing to overlook that since I do not really look for it and do not really see it unless I try. On low, it does not pass the pee test. In the middle of the night, when up for a head call the PWM is visible.
I will say, it is one of my favorite drivers for 1aa/14500 use.
I have tried to buy drivers from Thorfire, only to be told they do not make them or sell them. So, I asked if they would provide the name of the supplier so that maybe a buy could be put together, but they would not provide that either. Bummer, I would hate to have to rob parts from a working TG06 to work on one of my other AA lights.
I just do not understand the problem with building a decent AA/14500 driver that boosts and bootstraps the CPU and supplies decent current to the LED. These little guys get about 2 amps at the tailcap and really work well.
Matt