Hey wolfgirl42, thank you! It was a typo. I got the 760G. Good pickup and info.
I won’t worry about the health aspects. For some reason, when deciding on a thread lube, I saw a product on Amazon that had a skin-and-eyes warning. Years ago, I used a solvent that said “100% Natural” in big letters on the label, and in smaller letters had a skin warning. I used it many times without gloves, and got a skin condition that lasted many years. So when I see a warning on a product, I’m super careful. But it wasn’t even Nyogel! I’m full of confusion today. I will edit my first post. Thank you for your response!
I’ve been using Superlube for years now and never had an issue. O-rings don’t swell or shrink, threads stay smooth, it doesn’t dry out, no difference in electrical conductivity. I’ve used it on spark plug boots and battery posts, door strikers and latches to good effect also. I got a tube from Napa years ago and maybe used 1/3 of it? For $9.
Is it a lot more than others? I haven’t tested every single one but I thought every grease shows up under UV.
I use it to see where I have grease on anything and it always shows up. On guns, door hinges, garage tracks, engines, suspensions, all different types of grease. I think most everything petroleum based does something under UV to some extent.
But if it REALLY fluorescences that’s different, that’d be useful. Most grease you need a bit of it to see, a really thin film on flashlight threads would be hard to see.
It REALLY fluoresces, nice and bright! I need to try UV with some other lubes to compare, but yeah the Nyogel lights up nice and bright.
Edit: I just tried UV with Superlube Synthetic grease and some “pure” silicon grease. They both do show up under UV… but sort of like blue flecks. Nyogel is almost pure white and considerably brighter.
Good suggestion though to use UV to find how effectively I am lubing things like my garage door.
Neat, that’s useful.
The blue flecks might just be dust, or maybe the spots were there’s a bigger dollop of grease?Because it should be a consistent color. But like I was saying, a thin layer like you have on flashlight threads you might not be able to see very well, has to be a slightly thicker application. Not much thicker, idk, like .2 of mm or something like that.
UV lights come in handy so often. There’s so many things they can be used for that you’d never think about.
Buying a used car. Won’t work on a bright sunny day obviously, but if you can check the car out in the evening or in the garage, UV is like a lie detector. If any body panel has been replaced or repainted, even if they matched the color perfectly, under UV itll be completely different.
Under the hood and under the car you can see what’s new and what’s never been touched. Anything that’s been worked on recently, any area that’s had any attention paid to it lately, had a lot of hands touching it, been replaced, possible problem areas, they stand right out.
Stuff they thought they covered up, leaks that they recently cleaned up with some degreaser, squeaking stuff they sprayed with a lubricant, maybe some rust on the underbody they hit with spray paint, it all stands right out, you cant hide anything from UV. Even a new screw or bolt stands out from the others.
And even if that all checks out and the car is mechanically perfect, if they see a UV light shined around the interior you’ve got a ton of leverage going into negotiations now. That alone should knock the price down a grand.
No, most of them are non anodized threads. and yes my MAO S2+ is the worst. Is the grease damaging the metal surface? or is the grease itself turning grey from oxidation or something?
I don’t know exactly what it is that’s causing it, hopefully someone with better knowledge than me will jump in. If you’re using appropriate grease it won’t be damaging the metal.
My observation has been that with anodised threads the grease stays looking clean and clear, unanodised it goes grey quickly and MAO just turns into a horrid-looking mess. It’s one thing putting me off buying another MAO light, I like the way it looks but the threads feel horrid unless well-greased and when they are it goes all grey and nasty.
The lube is most likely turning grey from the aluminum (or whatever material the threads are) rubbing off when the head or tail is screwed on and off. Or it could be from the O-ring deteriorating.
Lube helps by putting a slick surface between the threads, but it doesn’t at all times and that’s when the aluminum scrape against each other and wears.
It helps to relieve some of the spring force on the threads when assembling and disassembling since that will reduce the friction. You can do this by pushing in a little on the head or tail to try to float the threads in-between each other.
And with the stiff copper springs that Convoy now uses, there’s a lot of force on those threads!
From the reading I did since I posted, I think you’re right. There were a few posts on CPF about it where it was generally agreed that this is just a thing with bare aluminium threads.
I just realized the S2+ threads are anodized and the lube still gets dark. MAO is the worst. The TS10 threads are un-anodized and the lube on it gets darker than the anodized ones. All these were lubed around 6 months ago.
a microscopic amount is really enough