TK's Emisar D4 review

Ehehe, because you started it :blush:

U welcome :slight_smile: And
it’s like freefly says, this is an awesome tint for “all-around”!!

I noticed that too :wink: When on lower level (the regulated) the “yellowish” tint is nice for colour rendering at close distance. Then, higher outputs, more “neutral white” are very good for distance illumination without tiring the eyes :wink: I completely agree with you !!

Another thing I’d like to say is that D4 is a nice light for Winter! And we all know
“Winter is coming” :smiling_imp:
Mine is regulated for 52ÂșC so it doesn’t get that hot, but I was using it at a cold night outside: it didn’t get too warm (the host) but it warmed a bit my cold hands :slight_smile:

I believe that if the host (and internals) are cold, due to cold environment, it will take a bit longer to reach the configured temperature, so it will last a bit longer in highest output (also depending on batteries charge/voltage, of course). Is this thinking “correct” ?

Anyway, this is an awesome flashlight, I won’t get tired of saying this :smiley:

Yes, in Spain it’s already cold, and I’ve noticed a lot of change, I have it regulated very high, and it shows a lot with cold, hold much more high, it seems another, that if, drinks the jajajj batteries.

How do we get our tracking # from Intl-outdoor? Paid for it, the light shipped 6 days ago, but not there when I log in.

Just email Hank.
He’ll send you the tracking # with a Screenshot of the package status and tracking info.
Once it leaves China and enters The USA, you’ll be able to track it with USPS using the same tracking #.

My D4 was at JFK within 2 days of shipping.
It’s then a matter of how long it is in customs, transferred to DHL in my case, then to USPS.
My package went from JFK to LAX.
Go figure as JFK is much closer to me than LAX.
Total time in transit was 13 days from the shipping date, including weekends. I paid the additional $2 for tracking.

Thank you! Email sent. Yes, I paid the additional $2 since it was under the $80.

Sound good
 i am down if they ever made one for 26650.

Is turbo suppose to memorized?

Lets say I do:

  1. insert battery
  2. double click to get to turbo
  3. single click to off
  4. single click to on back to turbo for my sample

Now here my question, should step 4 get me back to turbo or just back to last brightness on the ramping curve(or regulated level in the example above)?

Also, is the double turbo same as the max at the ramping curve?

Anyways this thing is insannneee, can double as a soldering iron.

Is a copper head version of a D4 a better one since copper handles heat more efficiently?

Yes. It would have better thermal mass and conductivity. But it would be heavy, and more mass means it would take longer to cool down.

Yes, the D4 has last mode memory. So if you double click to get to turbo, then click it off, it will return to turbo the next time you click it back on.
However, if you change the battery or simply loosen the tail-cap or head it will reset to the default level, which is 100% of the regulated mode.

Yes, turbo = max output level. :+1:

Haha, are you sure, I think I read somewhere else that both moonlight and turbo is not remembered. Maybe just my imagination :/.

You read
. but I have the light in my hand and it memorizes turbo and moonlight
 until you unscrew the tail cap.

You read
. but I have the light in my hand and it memorizes turbo and moonlight
 until you unscrew the tail cap.
[/quote]

+1

I have 3 of them

They have memory mode Turbo and moonlight.

I disagree. I think copper would be much worse.

A copper head compared to an aluminum head:

  • less efficient at storing heat by unit of weight - copper absorbs something like 40% more heat while weighing something like twice as much.
  • Much heavier - an aluminum D4 will vanish into a pocket. Changing the head to copper is extremely noticeable and much less comfortable for pocket EDC. I really feel the extra weight of copper in my pocket. Very uncomfortable.
  • Much more risk of burning your hand - copper conducts heat more efficiently than aluminum. This means that when you turn the light to turbo the outside of the head where your fingers touch will heat up much faster. Heat will conduct away from the LEDs faster than with aluminum but this isn’t helpful if you still can’t run the light for long on turbo, unless you want blisters on your hand. The interior components of a flashlight: LED, driver, wiring, and even the battery 
 can all take MUCH more heat than your exposed hand can. Ideally, I’d want the interior of the light at the LED to be much hotter than the exterior where my hand sits.

Also note that when it comes to heatsinking, conducting heat isn’t everything. Conducting the heat from the LED into the copper body is only part of the problem. The body material also needs to be able to radiate the absorbed heat out of the light to surrounding air. This is called “emissivity”. If the emissivity isn’t high, the material won’t radiate heat. More heat will stay inside the light and it will get very hot.

  • Emissivity of anodized aluminum: 0.77 (higher is better)
  • Emissivity of polished copper: 0.023-0.052

The copper head of my Manker E14II gets too hot to touch in seconds 
 much faster than my D4, while producing half the output of my D4. The problem is the copper head.

I own a couple all-copper lights, plus the copper-head Manker E14 and E14II. I’ve come to the conclusion that aluminum is simply a much superior material for LED flashlight body construction. At most I’d want a copper star and maybe copper pill in lights that use a pill. Having exposed copper on the exterior of a light is counterproductive.

The biggest advantage of a copper body in a light seems to be the same as for titanium: Bling. Shiny copper looks impressive and makes a light aesthetically stand out from the sea of much cheaper aluminum lights.

It would be better in the sense that it would be brighter for longer, which fits the hot rod design. As you said, it would feel bloody hot. I don’t think this is a critical issue since you can hold it by the battery tube, and it could be improved with a coating.

I’ve only used protected cells for about 10 years since I’ve been in this hobby, dying to get one of these, any advice on using unprotected cells?

Today I want to share 3 funny but not funny stories at my work.l with my XPL HI 1A in tactical mode (press and instant turbo on hold)

1. One guy want to know if this is a good self defense flashlight so he want me to flash it into his eye on 18650 turbo mode. I told him I won’t do it because this thing will hurt like hell (don’t ask me how I know).

So my other coworker took it and blast it at the guy and he can’t see things for a few minutes and said it definitely was bright enough to buy times to run
 and he wanted me to pass a black marker on the table
 but there aren’t black markers


Him: (reached over and grab my red marker) and said “This one! It was right there”
Me: “mmmm bro
 that’s red”
Him: “

 really?.. (few seconds later) Now it looks purple”
We all just laughed


2. This time I had my D4 in 18350 aka “awww cute little thing mode” I was showing a few coworkers on how small this thing is on my hand with palm facing up and button up. One came over looked at it and tried to press the button and I told him “no don’t do it!” He looked at me like “What can this thing do? Blinding me?” So he pressed it at point blank right into his eyes
 he went blind and covered his eyes and laughed at his stupidity. He reported that he saw 4 dots for a very long time and colors are off everywhere


3. This time coworkers went around and telling others on this D4, one girl came by and my buddy said “Hey xxxxx (her name) this thing is so cool! It’s so bright!”
She had the most unimpressed face and said ” ya
? And
? Show me”
So I press the button and shine it off my palm, her face went from :expressionless: to “OMG what is this!!” With her eyes wide open :open_mouth: (and that blinds her too because she was very closeup and want to see it clearly)

So
 please don’t be like my coworkers
 and don’t let kids play with it.

Keep them in a case so they don’t get short-circuited, and be mindful that they can be completely discharged and destroyed. Most flashlights have low voltage protection to prevent this. However, the Emisar D4 will fully discharge the cell if you put it in backwards, so watch out.

The Emisar lights have low voltage protection.

At 3.0 volts they step down to the lowest output = so recharge the cell now.

At 2.8 volts it turns off.

Just try and keep your unprotected cell above 3 volts and you will be fine.

But if you get below 2.5 bin it they only cost $5.