Looking forward to the pogo pin adapter becoming available.
Bitburner should work to flash the hex file in Windows.
Thanks a lot
Edit: this should be sticky to #2
IMO, recalling this light is unreasonable, this is… to some people, not a serious problem, some people even don’t know there is smuggle mode on this light, or knowing how to access to it.
Moreober, Emisar is not a big company( i’m not sure if they( or he) are even a company), and it’s quite obvious to me that this light is not for the mass, but for flashaholic people like us, it has a lot ot modes that most people will never use, it runs insanely hot on turbo, and it requires non-protected battery to operate.
With some researching and purchasing, i bet people like us can fix this problem quite easily.
Of course Emisar/Hank can do recalling D4V2, but that will cost him a lot, instead, he can spend that money on developing new products, D4V3, D4SV2, etc. The more money spent on developing, the better the new light is. Remember Emisar is one of the best value flashlights right now in the market
That is very strange. I tested both a D4v2 prototype and a D4v2 production model. Neither one had any problems with reverse polarity protection.
I tested with a power supply and with a battery. I tested with power flowing through a DMM and with a fully-assembled light. Nothing I did caused any power to flow when the polarity was reversed. I’m not sure why yours was heating up, but mine doesn’t.
Tried it again just now to be sure, and I got the same results. There was no heating up, no power drawn at all. It behaved as if there was an insulating sticker over the battery.
It was tested. But the test plan didn’t include “go to muggle mode, turn the light off, and wait at least 20 minutes”. That’s a thing nobody knew to even look for.
Literally just copy/paste that command and run it, while the flashing device is touching the driver’s reflashing pads. It looks like this:
So, the slightly longer version is:
- Get the flashing hardware. This is the hard part, since the adapters aren’t widely available.
- Download a copy of avrdude.
- Download the firmware .hex file.
- Push the flashing device against the flashing pads.
- Run the command quoted above.
The risk is nearly zero if the fuse values are not changed. If it fails, simply try again. The command quoted above does not attempt to change fuse values, so it should be safe to run it as many times as it takes.
Errors pretty much only happen when something isn’t physically connected right… like if the adapter slips off during flashing, or if a wire isn’t connected to the right place. And if that happens, just put things into the right place and try again.
Maybe if & when this program key is available , someone will post a YouTube video to show normal people a step by step instructions to reprogram.
About handling the bug, Hank is obviously already aware and is taking steps to notify people and make sure everything shipped in the future is fixed. I’ve also been anxiously checking my email waiting for him to send an angry message about me making headaches for him, but he has been surprisingly nice about it.
I sent MtnElectronics information about it too, and plan to send him a flashing adapter if he doesn’t already have one. That was just this morning though, so he probably hasn’t even gotten the message yet.
Fortunately, firmware updates are pretty easy with the right adapter. It’s still an inconvenience and vendors have every right to be mad at me for missing the bug and making updates necessary… but at least it doesn’t involve any soldering. Just open the light, touch an adapter to it, and run a command. It takes about a minute total, including taking the light out of the package and putting it back in.
I’ve been trying to decide if I should offer a reflashing service too, for people close enough to make the shipping costs reasonable. On the one hand, it would be a helpful way to reduce the fallout of a bug I missed. On the other hand, I get violent threats on a regular basis and don’t like the amount of personal risk involved. So at minimum, I’d probably need to get a P.O. box or something.
Number one = be safe
Hard to believe there are twits like that out there……or here
Violent threats should not be tolerated & past on to the police.
These people bought a product that overdrives the LEDs, draws current from batteries on their limit and produces lot more heat by design than it can normally handle. Setting houses on fire can be expected. There should be a big warning on the product page and on the product itself explaining the risks.
I don’t see any issues with the firmware development at all. This bug was really hard to notice at all. I never would have thought about adding a test case to wait in a specific mode for long enough while the light is off.
Bugs appear with real users. One way to deal with such issues is to release the first batch to a small group of more or less experienced users for testing with explicit instructions what to do if they find bugs or are unsure about the behavior of the product. This could have helped in this case.
Back to topic: This is a great flashlight with some minor issues. There is no big company behind it. You cannot buy it on Amazon. Are there even normal people who have bought this light?
Yes normal people have bought this light (aren’t most of us normal?) a lot of sales are generated by YouTube videos watched by normal people .
It’s ALL about the firmware ,it’s the firmware that tells the torch what to do.
i agree with the underlined bit.
A few off the top of my head:
- can have different colors to distinguish lockout mode on vs off
- can distinguish muggle mode on or off (see notes above about muggle mode dangers on currently shipped lights)
- in battery check config, the color will give you the battery charge status at a glance
Back to topic: This is a great flashlight with some minor issues. There is no big company behind it. You cannot buy it on Amazon. Are there even normal people who have bought this light?
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are there normal people that have bought this light you ask? Do you think it’s within the realm of possibility that some ‘unaware’ purchaser of this light, might put his light in muggle mode, and then leave his residence to go to work, come home and find his home burned to the ground? I think several posts here have already proved that to be a very real probability, and an alarming one. I hope all purchasers can be reached by mail with the warning - this at the very least.
How can i tell if I have the muggle mode bug? Can it be determined by order date?
It is my understanding that all currently shipped D4v2 lights have the muggle mode bug.
Basically, if your item shipped before yesterday, and if it has a muggle mode, it most likely has the issue. But to be sure, you could put it in muggle mode and wait. It should start blinking after ~15 minutes.
That’s already happening. Aside from a few hours to sleep, no time has been wasted in letting people know and working on ways to resolve things.
I also want to help the community so if someone has the buggy firmware I can reflash the corrected one in Hungary for shipping back cost.
I haven’t read through the entire thread since this was posted, but mine is the same way. Quite weak.
Update:
And now I have read the full thread and I’m up to speed on the firmware. Makes my magnet concern less so. I unscrew tail caps, so not a huge concern, but I would be interested in a fix that accommodates dummies like me. Also, does anyone have a comprehensive list of lights that use Anduril with this bug?
Refer to post #2:
“No other Anduril-based lights are affected. It is only the first batch of D4v2. And no other modes are affected… just muggle mode.”
I finally received my tan D4V2 SST20 4000K + SS bezel - same as in the picture on first post. It worked right out of the box with no issue so far.
I already own a couple D4V1 so was not particularly interested in the hot rod aspect of it and mainly played with the new RGB aux leds. I got confused at first with the seven clicks hold/release routine but sort of figured it out. Real nice addition indeed.
One artifact of the RGB aux leds is that when you run them on low and select a composite color involving two colors - like cyan which is green and blue, depending how you look at the optic you can make out the two components. That sort of makes the aux leds multicolored and more complex/textured.
I don’t care about the muggle mode bug. This is not a light i intend to lend. I’ve got plenty of safer lights for that. Good to know about it though.
I think the D4V2 would have been better named the “D4 Deluxe”.
Real good work Hank and TK! 
PS: now i really miss aux leds on the D18… 