Great idea! Also you can choose aux led type or if you have one or your flashlight type. And maybe if you want lower turbo to limit that for Osram led or like in a small light great output you can limit lower to not heat up.
Previously I wasn’t that interested in pogo pin adaptors but I’d like one now. I haven’t received an email as yet but expect to in the near future. 
This makes me very happy! I was hoping someone would produce pogo-pin adapters long before this. :-}
Overall, thank you for the great response to this issue. You produce great products and you stand behind them.
When a large corporation does a recall it sometimes hurts their stock price for a few months. When small businesses are faced with something like that they either go bankrupt and shutdown or find a creative workaround. I’m glad that you are taking the second path.
the FW3A was designed to have”optic nerve”, but they cancelled it, i think we may have that feature in D4V3, no need pogo pins and programming software, just use your phone screen to program it
the problem is, i think TK wants to transmit all the ROM code through “optic nerve”, but imo only essential data( like min/max ramping, strobe mode, etc) should be transmitted
I agree with you that you shouldn’t be expected to purchase an additional accessory to fix their manufacturing defect.
The following was taken from the int-outdoor website:
“Product Quality Guarantee
1. As a responsible seller, we will select reliable suppliers and fine quality products for our customers.
2. If for some reasons the customers get defective products, or there’re quality issues when used properly during the warranty period, we will replace the item within 10 days after the arrival.
3. And repair the items within 3 months without any extra charge.
4. If it’s over 3 months but within 12 months we will only charge the exact cost (non-profitable for us).”
Given their stated quality quarantee, it would seem that int-outdoor should provide some other option to fix these lights other than having you pay to fix them yourself.
Why do people buy hotrod flashlights in the first place if they can’t handle the risks inherent to this kind of li-ion flashlights, really ?
People have burnt pockets, furnitures, holsters with hotrods, well before this bug.
With anduril, I never entered muggle mode with 6 clicks by mistake and I’m not special, it’s quite easy to count clicks and perform a quick auto-check right after a 5 clicks or 6 clicks.
Double click from ON or OFF and no turbo but the flashlight turns OFF = you are in muggle mode.
I agree with you!
For example, I didn’t get an e-mail with the warning!
If you click six times instead of five you will be in Muggle mode, true!
Of course you were going for the five clicks to be in strobe mode, there is a clear difference and now that you’re aware of the issue, why the alarmist attitude ?
Then you continue on by saying you didn’t buy the light because of gimmick modes . Muggle mode on a high output flashlight is the definition of a gimmick mode . It’s like the valet switch on a sports car and then complaining it doesn’t work. That’s not the main purpose of the car .
This is an extreme ( enthusiast ) flashlight, without question! Leading:cutting edge products have their upsides and downsides. Feigning ignorance about these factors is disingenuous.
I think the potential of a lithium battery failing in a bad way or a light over heating beyond safe (no matter how unlikely) is an event that goes way beyond the mess a leaking alkaline would cause. People see the videos of lithium batteries failing in a shower of sparks and vape pens blowing peoples faces off…and that causes concern and alarm (probably beyond the actual risk).
Over the years, I’ve had many alkaline batteries leak with no more than a powdery mess at least and a ruined light at worst.
It seems a lithium failure could fail in a more “spectacular” way…and that is something no one wishes to be surprised by.
I think this adds to the “alarm” either rightly or wrongly.
I certainly trust the merchants and programmers to rectify this and look forward to the solutions they offer.
The problem with Muggle mode definitely qualifies as a defect. And there has been at least one light that suffered damage because of it.
For those who feel very strongly about this, it seems like an appropriate action would be to contact International Outdoors for repair or replacement under the terms of the warranty.
I never use muggle mode myself so am not worried about it. I’m also not worried about accidentally ending up in muggle mode since it’s so easy to check (a quick double-click should be enough to tell if you’re in muggle mode since the light will turn off instead of getting to turbo).
Eventually, I may get one of those pin adapters and reflash it myself. Or maybe get it done by Illumn since they are local. But no rush.
The D4V2 is a hobbyist light with a sophisticated driver. I have immense respect for the great work TK has done with the firmware and don’t fault her for the defect. It was an unanticipated event outside the planned testing regimen. These things sometimes happen.
Thanks, this is a welcome development, but I'm trying to understand what would and would NOT be in the "kit". I'm assuming I would still buy the USB ASP board myself, and then the adapter "kit" from Hank would come with the so-called "key" PCB and needed cable that plugs in between the key PCB and USB board?
Note, it was only yesterday that I began looking at requirements to reflash the D4V2, so I'm a newbie at this.
As previously posted, i’ve had a few issues with this light.
I know that it can set fire to things/burn holes in things, i also know that like the D4(v1) before it and other such lights it can be occidentally activated such as in your pocket, or in a bag, so from that I always gave a slight twist of the tail cap before it went in a bag, or in a pocket.
I didn’t know there was a ( possible) fatal flaw with muggle mode, although again, until i have a solution this can be worked around - either by keeping it mechanically locked out when not in use, or by checking its not in muggle mode by seeing if the strobe modes are active ( click click hold)
The problem isn’t really Hank’s fault though… it’s mine. And now he’s stuck with most of the work involved in dealing with my mistake. 
It’s an easy fix; takes only a minute with the right tools. Shipping items back and forth for a 1-minute fix is a bit expensive though, especially internationally. Would it help if I bought a flashing kit for Hank to ship to you?
Indeed. And that’s pretty relevant.
There are probably some cultural clashes involved here. And it’s understandable; you joined the forum just a couple weeks ago and are having some trouble learning the local customs. Already got scolded by the admin, which is no small feat. And there are cultural differences between different countries, particularly in how people expect business to be conducted.
Some things are considered common knowledge or “tribal” knowledge even if they’re not explicitly stated anywhere. So it can be helpful to actually say those things once in a while, since they’re not so common on the outside. And here’s a big one:
The first batch of niche enthusiast community products, especially “hot rod” ones like this, almost always has some sort of problem. This risk is generally assumed to be known by those who order early.
I’m not saying this is a good thing… just that it’s common, and people are expected to factor this into their purchasing decisions.
For example:
- The A6 first batch was manufactured by a totally different company than the samples, so there were a lot of unfortunate surprises.
- The Rey Ti Triple basically needed its switch replaced before it would work. And later, the Pineapple had PWM issues and a bad reflector which made a weak and ugly beam, until those were fixed in a second batch.
- The Cometa would seriously damage itself within seconds of inserting a battery.
- The first-batch Q8 switch damaged itself over time, and the screws were about as solid as butter.
- The S41 had reversed polarity on the MCPCB so it was a thin paint scratch away from shorting itself. And then the S42 had a horrible UI and couldn’t even fit the batteries it was designed for.
- The very first original D4 batch didn’t really have any thermal regulation at all, and could easily damage itself. It quickly gained a reputation as a “nut roaster” due to accidental pants-pocket activations.
- Half a dozen different models of Narsil-based lights shipped with a bug where settings were randomly forgotten, before anyone noticed and fixed it.
- Several high-powered lights have been capable of burning out their own LEDs when used with high-amp cells.
- The E07 first batch had an air gap under the MCPCB, and sometimes had holes screwed in the wrong places.
- The FW3A had (or has?) tolerance and assembly issues often enough that it tends to require disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly before it can work reliably.
And so on.
These things have gradually been getting less frequent and less severe over time, for the most part. So there is progress in a positive direction. But it’s still risky to order the first batch of any niche item. If people seem cavalier about it, it’s because they knew about and accepted the first-batch risks before buying.
TK, can you tell me if this is the right board?
Then some pogo pins, the progkey and cables.Is that enough or am I missing something?
Is a quality guarantee posted on int-outdoor meaningless? Why should anyone be expected to buy a fix for a defective brand new light? Why should that be a buyer’s responsibility?
They accepted their mistake, and offer you a fix that they think it’s reasonable( and indeed it is). The tool they are offering are not 1-time use only tool, you can use it to upgrade firmware in the future, and this tool can work with many other lights( all attiny-based driver).
I think you are over expecting from emisar, for $40-50 you have an over 4000 lumen flashlight with one of the smartest UI in the market.
If you take alook at famous flashlight brands like Acebeam, olight, fenix, jetbeam, what can you get with 50 bucks, a much weaker light with annoying UI and horrible tint, but you also get a better customer support.
You get what you pay for.
I’m happy to report my d4v2 doesn’t have the flu, microbes, or bedbugs. I placed it in muggle mode and no snorting, spitting, or venomous squirts issued forth. So if i resell it should I ask for a premium over buggy versions
Toykeeper, this is not your fault. Who would have thought to set up a test for a light to fail while it was off. You and Hank are making amazing strides for small powerful lights. I don’t know anything about flashing operating systems, but I am willing to learn. What I would need is a complete idiots flashing kit and a YouTube video. I would be more than happy to pay the cost plus shipping to receive one (please have them ship from the US if possible). I too was not notified by email but check this forum daily to see what wonders Toykeeper has conceived. As you said, this should be a quick fix once the tools are available. Thank you for your work!
Two of my D4V2 refuse to enter muggle mode, so I wonder if there is a setting that disables it somehow.