IME, the muggle mode glitch does not manifest itself if the cell inside is at 4.0v, 4.1v, or 4.2v.
Fine for my needs.
Chris
I got it! Problem was I was using my heat gun last night which was not concentrated enough heat. I used my butane torch with the flameless heat tip and got it off in about 30 seconds, without melting the solder for the spring.
The dimensions of the magnet cavity are 17mm in diameter x 3.33mm deep. When getting a magnet, keep in mind you'll need to account for adhesive to hold the magnet in place. I'm going to look for 3mm x 16mm or 16.5mm in a N52 grade neodymium magnet.
Let us know if your aftermarket magnet is noticeably stronger than the stock one when it’s all together
This is my first post at BLF, where I have been following the discussion for a while. I purchased and received a new D4v2, but before the Muggle Mode bug was discovered. So far, it’s working fine, and I don’t really need Muggle Mode, so it hasn’t been a problem. I am getting the flashing kit anyway (I do think Hank, as a small business, is doing his best to deal with the issue). Though I’m not very technically adept, I hope it won’t be too difficult. I’ll have to try it on my Mac, as I don’t have a PC or Android phone, and I haven’t seen anything available for an iPhone.
Meanwhile, there doesn’t appear to be any issues using the light as long as Muggle Mode is avoided.
Will do. I'm ordering some of these tomorrow.
Should be just about the perfect amount of pull. I'm guessing my D4V2 magnetic tailcap has about 6 lbs. of pull because I have some 1/16" x 3/4" N52 magnets that I attached to the outside of the tailcap of my 18650 Zebralights and the pull feels nearly identical. The problem is that the head of the D4V2 is heavier than the heads of my Zebralights and ~6 lbs. is just not enough when I attached one of those magnets to the outside of the D4V2 tailcap but feels the same as the magnetic tailcap.
Welcome to blf
I’m very happy to see that flashing kit.
It makes me eager to wait for some new Emisar to appear. 
How long did your D4v2’s stay at the destination airport (USA) before being transferred to DHL? Mine has been “at the airport” for 10 days now, and DHL hasn’t received it yet. Just trying to gauge the wait time before bothering Hank with it.
Not a huge fan of DHL eCommerce, seems to take longer for me. Same with Banggood’s cheapest option now, seems to take much longer now too.
2019-07-13 13:42 TX, US / DELIVERED
2019-07-13 12:46 TX, US / OUT FOR DELIVERY
2019-07-13 12:36 TX, US / SORTING COMPLETE
2019-07-13 11:56 TX, US / ARRIVAL AT POST OFFICE
2019-07-13 10:41 TX, US / ARRIVED USPS SORT FACILITY
2019-07-13 06:27 TX, US / TENDERED TO DELIVERY SERVICE PROVIDER
2019-07-12 22:16 TX, US / ARRIVAL DESTINATION DHL ECOMMERCE FACILITY
2019-07-11 01:41 Melrose Park, IL, US / DEPARTURE ORIGIN DHL ECOMMERCE FACILITY
2019-07-10 13:23 Melrose Park, IL, US / PROCESSED
2019-07-09 12:00 ORD / In transit, it’s progressing through Post network
2019-07-05 17:08 ORD / Released from customs: customs cleared.
2019-07-04 03:30 ORD / Shipment arrived at airport of destination country
2019-07-03 19:37 HKG / shipment departed from airport of origin country
2019-06-29 20:00 HKG / Hand over to airline.
2019-06-29 15:30 HONGKONG / Arrived at Hong Kong hub.
2019-06-29 00:42 EN ROUTE TO DHL ECOMMERCE
2019-06-29 00:38 ELECTRONIC NOTIFICATION RECEIVED: YOUR ORDER HAS BEEN PROCESSED AND TRACKING WILL BE UPDATED SOON
2019-06-26 20:02 Hongqiao,Shanghai,China / Depart from facility to service provider.
2019-06-26 13:42 Hongqiao,Shanghai,China / Fpx pciked up shipment.
2019-06-26 13:42 Hongqiao,Shanghai,China / Shipment arrived at facility and measured.
Yea I know what you mean. DHL says it’s coming from NYC since last week. But checking 17track, they show it in ORD (Chicago) only 6 days ago.
2019-08-03 23:50 ORD, Shipment arrived at airport of destination country
2019-08-02 04:16 HKG, shipment departed from airport of origin country
2019-08-01 15:30 HKG, Hand over to airline.
2019-07-31 21:15 HONGKONG, Arrived at Hong Kong hub.
2019-07-31 01:11 EN ROUTE TO DHL ECOMMERCE
2019-07-31 01:09 ELECTRONIC NOTIFICATION RECEIVED: YOUR ORDER HAS BEEN PROCESSED AND TRACKING WILL BE UPDATED SOON
2019-07-29 20:12 Hongqiao,Shanghai,China, Depart from facility to service provider.
2019-07-27 15:43 Hongqiao,Shanghai,China, Fpx picked up shipment.
2019-07-27 15:43 Hongqiao,Shanghai,China, Shipment arrived at facility and measured.
I would expect by Monday then you will see some movement based on my tracking. I don’t think I got any updates between the two bolded parts that could have been one of those things that only shows up retroactively. I think you are still on track.
Cool, thanks contactcr!
Nev,
I think I’m beginning to understand your humor better. This gave me a grin.
Maybe this would make a good avatar?
Did you guys pay the additional $2 to get tracking or is in in my order info somewhere and I am just not seeing it?
F0xx, I did pay the extra $2, but if it is over $80 you get tracking anyways. You have to email Hank directly in order to get it. He’s usually very quick at responding with your tracking number when asked.
Thank you sir!
I’ve done four separate orders with Hank and never bothered with the tracking fee. All got here between 20-22 days from the time I hit submit.
I give things 3 weeks and I don’t really need to know where it is on X, Y or Z day.
Chris
A few days ago I posted about how I was having problems with my D4V2’s green aux LEDs not working (nor any of the colors that rely on them), and that it resolved itself somehow. The problem has returned, but I have more information after testing.
I discovered when I was swapping tubes (I love the little 18350 tube!) that green was no longer working again. With a little fiddling of the head, they came back on. I was tightening it all the way, but if I put light rotational pressure either way on the already-tight head (it didn’t even feel like it was turning), the green LEDs would flicker for a moment and come back on. If I put pressure on it again (to tighten, despite not being able to rotate it further), it flickers and goes out. I’ve tested this multiple times, using high green as the standard aux color (not lockout, etc )so that it would immediately show when I tested it. Using this same method, I can also turn cyan to blue or amber to red just with my fingers.
This makes me think that there’s some kind of connection issue between the tube and the head. The head was definitely making contact with the battery, and everything but the green LEDs were working normally. It would miss green colors in the rainbow cycle or be unable to make the colors requiring green in them.
Is there some kind of electrical connection between the tube and head that is breaking somehow? If so, why are only the green LEDs affected? Most importantly, is there anything I can do to fix it? (cleaning, special grease, etc)
That sounds to me like there is a connection problem on the driver itself (probably a cable to the AUX LEDs getting pinched or a weak solder joint that is affected by the pressure you put on it via the tube). I would suggest contacting Hank and asking for an exchange.
Pinched wire.
I’ve had mine completely apart and made some mods, lost reds on reassembly with the same king of tight/lose issue…. it was a pinched wire. Addressed it and reassembled more delicately and my light works perfectly.