You can click on the picture to see it 100% (normally) 
There is no sleeve that can be removed in the S11 (and other similar tailcaps). The step is required due to the reduced diameter of the main aluminium body, behind the stainless steel end piece. The S11 switch is smaller than the normal one, as is the retaining ring. I apologise for any confusion. Earlier in the thread i said that the switch will not fit into the stainless ended tailcaps, but that information is easily missing in such a lengthy thread.
Hmmm, yes yours looks slightly different to mine. I could clearly see that the threaded tube was a second piece of aluminum, and there was clear indends in it to use as rotating grabbing places. Also, what made me think it has to come out, was that there was no other way to remove the tailcap boot, as the threaded tube actually held the tailcap boot in place. But I can see you managed to remove that :|
So it doesn't seem like my solution is gonna work for you. It seems like you would have to sand the switch smaller like Dale had to. Maybe ask him for tips.
Good luck
Thank you both for your replies. Well, no problem, I’m going to use the switch in another tailcap, or probably another lamp, since 5A+ are high for those Solarforce, regarding thermal dissipation.
For the Solarforce M8, I had to file the switch down in diameter in order to fit in. That white plastic is tough! Ended up removing all the fancy writing, but on mine the aluminum blocks it so you can’t see it anyway. 
The retaining ring to hold the switch in and make ground wouldn’t fit over the contact end of the switch in the M8 either, so I cut a ring off the end of a piece of 3/4” copper tubing, used this as a bridge to make contact with the retaining ring and copper plates on the switch. Works like a charm, so far 10.90A is the highest I’ve seen with the FET driver. (Which, in all honesty, is too much. The MT-G2 is singing right along in the 7A range, when you go higher you’re pretty much just generating a lot more heat…at 6.77A I was seeing 3200+ at 30 seconds, at 10.9A I’m getting 3500+ at 30 seconds. That’s a whole lot more amperage for a measly 300 lumens.)
For the Convoy C8, it’s a much easier install. Didn’t do anything at all to the switch itself, which was a relief.
Hi Lithium, OL did a mod of a Judco 10A switch that might work for you. It would require more work than a Tofty switch. Here
Lithium, if you have a little time on that one MattAus is making a Fettie switch that will easily handle 20A+, he’s got most of it done and tested, just waiting on some parts for finalization. This is a self-powered electronic switch for tail clickies. If I’m not mistaken, there are 3 design sizes that at least one of which should fit your light.
Thanks for info
Wait and see now. But I’m more a tint snob than a lumen addict, so I doubt I’ll ever go over ~6-7A. But it’s nice to have found a community like BLF, thanks.
You will like Tofty’s switch. It is robust and easy to work with.
Hi everyone,
I have 20 more 10A+ switches to sell.
I'll try and make sure i contact everyone, who has previously shown an interest, in the next few days. However, please feel free to contact me first, just in case i miss you.
Cheers
Excellent news, PM sent!
I’m having something made and waiting to find out about an electronic switch in the build versus having your switch. Will get back to you when I know more.
PM sent.
PM sent
In case anyone’s wondering what kind of power this switch can handle, thought I’d share this lil tidbit…
I built a modified Convoy C8 that Bucket made a 1/2 pound copper pill for, and utilized the Tofty 10A+ switch. With an Luminus SST-90 emitter and the BLF17DD FET driver, this bad boy pulls 15.48A making 1700 lumens off of a Samsung 20R, yes a single 20R! Not a hiccup whatsoever!
Stout switch, highly recommend it!
Just curious, how did you measure the current with switch in place?
Clamp meter off the emitter negative lead.
Edit: To clarify…de-solder the negative lead from the star, solder a short lead in place on the star and the other end to the negative lead going back to the driver. Use the clamp meter on the resulting loop. This done with the bezel off and reflector out.
Thanks Guys, I'm dragging me feet on this (as always), but i will answer all the PMs soon.
And a big thanks to DBCstm for his continued testing of the switch. Has anyone made one fail yet?
Quick answer no.
I guess I could wire one up as the on/off switch for a train engine or something, that might make one fail… I think Steve uses one for the safety kill switch on his 3 phase lathe… (please don’t anyone try this!)
I can’t think of what would kill one of these Tofty! They’re beasts!