Very interesting read, but I have a question. Wouldn’t it be the opposite in real life, with pressure pushing from the outside instead of the inside? With any kind of rubber seal, the direction of pressure is very important, as it can either cause a leak or cause the seal. Like a valve if from the wrong way. So shouldn’t any test, to be reliable, be from the outside in? And, even if this is not so, how much air pressure is being pumped in as compared to normal pressure at 3 feet? 10 feet? Being submerged at relatively shallow depths gives far less pressure than an air pump in a small cannister (equivalent to an 18650 in air space) so perhaps the methodology is more flawed than the switch? Just a thought.
Going snorkeling or diving would require a light made for such purposes. Any light made for normal use will only be water tight to a reasonable expectation of depth as related to a drop in water, ie: a creek or puddle. I would never expect any of my lights to fare well in more than a few feet of water. If I dropped one in 10’ of water I’d probably consider it a loss, and would be very pleasantly surprised if some TLC had it working once recovered/ if recovered.
Just ordered my own L4 today, looking forward to it’s arrival.
My L4 often get hazed when stored in the closet in the air con room…
it makes the AR lens from IOS kinda useless.when lit, white layer is there no matter how many times wiping.keep coming back…
Have you looked at how the switch is installed? They put a rubber gasket around the switch activator button, simply pushing it into the hole with the electronic switch that’s mounted on the driver holding it in place. Without the switch backing it, it will push right through. Like a cork, simple stopper fit. Not a high pressure mount at all and one of those things that will allow pressure in easier than pressure out. Perhaps a bit of silicone rubber glue in the host housing to seal the seal would give it vastly better ingress protection. At any rate, it’s not designed to withstand more than a light rain it would appear. Stands to reason I guess, not a lot of folks use a flashlight in a heavy rain…but sometimes it simply isn’t a choice when and where you use one much less the weather conditions at the time. In all actuality, harsh conditions are the primary use for a light to begin with. So the L4 isn’t the go-to light when a storm knocks a tree down, taking out the power lines and you’ve got to clear it with a chain saw.
Just the other day I bypassed the original driver with a piggybacked FET driver, no more side switch. It’s still there, just isn’t doing anything. I need to open it back up and seal it off with something.
As you mentioned the side switch seal is weak and possible for first water entry point when submerge. I just don’t expect normal air presurre can find the way into the head. I’m thinking to change the o-ring on the lens or apply new layer of silicone grease to seal…
In regards to all the comments about testing the switch for water leaks- you guys are getting way too complex. Just unscrew the switch and look at it. It is not waterproof.
This is a side view of the switch retaining ring and plunger. Notice the rubber skirt around the plunger.
This is the threaded hole in the body. Notice there is no ledge at the bottom of the threads- it’s just a straight hole. Nothing for the rubber switch skirt to seal against.
The rubber skirt should keep water out if you use it in a light rain, or drop it in a puddle for minute, but if is not going to go swimming with you and survive.
Banggood is selling this light for $24.55 I think it is. All of you who own this light, please chirp in here. What kind of a deal is this? Is this a good light, a great light? Appreciate your posts, thanks.
@texastoasted, thanks for the exploded view pictures.
i wonder if a light never got disassemble since out of the box, will it more survive against the issue…
@saypat, i got mine from simon several months ago…it’s great value light. But if compare to xintd c8 v5, maybe the aesthetic can be differentiation in decision.
No. The rubber switch boot is just a light friction fit against the threaded hole. There is nothing below the rubber for it to seal against. It makes no difference if you take it apart or not.
It should work fine to keep out a little water, but it will never hold any pressure at all.
I don’t think this is a flaw or problem with the light since it is not sold as a dive light.
No, what i meant if the light never got dissambled since out of box, can the head got hazy too?
a friend suggest to fill the switch hole using clear silicone sealant (for aquarium/glass joint seal) to create a base to support the rubber skirt. Not sure if the sealant will interfere the electronic switch circuit or not.
OK, pulled the trigger with BG on the L4; then realized I didn’t have a solution for carrying the light. Anybody have a recommendation (specific holster that will fit or clip arrangement)?
I have this one . Well made and fits Convoy L4 nicely.
The only downside is that metal snaps aren’t covered on the inner side and can probably scratch anodising. I’ve covered them with velcro strap on mine.
Hey guys, I just received one of these. The light is a bit too spotlight for me. Is there a drop-in floody reflector I can just drop in for this? thanks
