Could still have made it Carlo compatible so the enthusiasts can play with it…
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Exactly what I was hoping for.
I need to pickup a some new digital calipers so I can measure the optic more precisely. I’m now wondering if the mcpcb Simon sells would fit. I know he only sells the one 90° optic. However, Kingbrite makes them in 10°‐90°, and apparently can be purchased on Alibaba for cheap. They might be too tall though, but at this point it’s the only option I can think of for a different optic.
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If I woke up and that thing was next to me I would jump out the window.
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Hop, just and update.
Looks like it sold out. Good for you Wurkkos! I hope it turns out to be a successful nice light.
My dilema is over, I’ll wait some time and see the new colours and maybe temperatures : )
I guess reviews are being cooked as I write, really looking forward to see those.
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Darn. Just tried to order, but it’s sold out. 
Interesting that our use cases differ so dramatically. I really like the beam, but then, I am into floody lights for the majority of things I need a light for. I took my Max out for a walk a couple of nights ago. There is a park nearby where it is pretty dark (for an urban area). I found the beam on 100/150 to be very nice for lighting up the path ahead of me. Very easy to see anything I might step on and avoid it if required. Perfect for walking speed. At one point the dog noticed something. I cranked it to top of ramp (120/150) and saw a couple laying on a blanket about 50 yards away. There was plenty of light to see them and the 12 pack of beer they had with them.
No it is not a thrower, but for most of what I do it is darn near perfect. No, I probably would not use it for running in a forest, nor biking. But then I have dedicated lights for that.
BTW, I am a big fan of lights like the Convoy S21D and even the TS25, so that will tell you something about my preferences. The Max fills the same sort of role, but in a nice, relatively small, package.
It certainly would have been nice to have the Carclo optics fit, but I am sure the decisions about the design were driven by manufacturing costs and component availability. So I guess it is what it is. But this factor would not prevent me from buying the light again nor recommending it. I also wish they had glass in front of the TIR.
I’m still disappointed in not being able to swap optics, but after using it around the house and yard I’ll admit I was a bit harsh with my assessment. I think it will also be better with dedomed emitters too. I’ll swap in some 5700K dedomed though, as the 5000K end up a bit warm for my tastes.
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I will be interested in seeing the results with DD 5700 emitters in it. Though I am liking the 5K.
I just was playing around and found out a Carclo 1062X quad optic will fit along with a 20mm MTN mcpcb. The Carclo is the same height and the diameter is just a bit bigger. The outside of the Carclo does get covered up by the bezel though, so I don’t know how good the beam will look. I’ll also have to lose the aux lights, but I don’t ever really use them anyway.
If the quad Carclo doesn’t work out I’ll swap in the dd 5700K.
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I just saw the first U-Tube video someone put up on the light tonight. “Wurkkos TS10 Max vs TS10 V2 EDC Flashlight Nichia 519A 18650” Did not want to get in trouble for posting a link. Compares the size but not very technical review. Still looks pretty small. I ordered one but it is still a few days out.
Is your car governed to 5 MPH, or are you capable of keeping your foot out of the gas well enough to drive around a parking lot without losing the ability to travel at freeway speeds? I doubt it.
Just because my car is capable of speeds in the triple-digit, “watch the gas gauge drop and the temperature gauge rise as I bounce off the rev limiter” does not mean that that’s the only way I can drive, or even that I want to do that on a regular basis. However, I like the option of having a brief burst of power that you simply can’t get with a 36 HP car that gets 80+ MPG.
The same logic applies to flashlights. And there’s plenty of low-lumen, super-efficient lights out there to suit your tastes. And jsut like the lights that have the power you hate so much, many of them are not single-mode/Turbo-only lights.
Even the Linear-driven D4-series can do that. Most larger-than-14500 lights can. The ability to exceed the thermal limitations of the host is not inherently bad. Why do you think Zebra has “PID” on the lumen measurements for the higher modes? Even the 521-lumen level of the SC600w Mk IV Plus HI has that “PID” marker.
It’s not lost on me that the lights you mention, aside from the SC600 that cannot do what you say it can, are all larger (21700) lights with all of the thermal capabilities that is implied by their size.
You must really hate the SC53c then
And as one who prefers two hours at 100 lumens over one hour at a barely-brighter-to-the-eye 150 lumens, I think the FET+1 TS10 beats the Skilhunt as well. It still doesn’t change the fact that the SC53C is far from Zebra’s best work though. heck, even the D2 dual-linear beats the SC53c
But some see 0 lumens past the 90 minute mark as brighter than the 100 lumens that the “inefficient hotrod” will sustain for long after the SC53C conks out, so I’ll chalk that up to personal preference.
The only lights I’ve had that issue with are 14500 lights, even the D3AA with it’s awesome Freeman driver that has better efficiency than any Zebra. Sure, the efficiency of SMPS drivers allows for higher sustained lumens in larger-than-14500 lights that have the thermal mass to have the driver really make a difference, but 400 lumens is sustainable by a linear+FET D4V2, and the sustained output of a buck-driven M150 or boost-drive D3AA isn’t perceptively much higher than the smaller FET+1 TS10 that is actually fully regulated up to 350 mA that gives a sustained output that closely matches the thermal limitations of the tiny host from the emitters alone.
All in all, I’m getting a “people who are not like me are wrong!” vibe backed by reasoning that is not supported by facts, with a dash of misinformation. And while I like to generally keep a “you like what you like” neutrality, the fact that I took the time to write all this should tell you something about how fallacious I find your prejudices. It’s for the same reason I used that word instead of “preferences”. So maybe dial it back a notch or three?
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Thanks for that full explanation.
I feel educated now.
Also glad your “Word a Day calendar” is coming in handy.
Peace out and Happy Sunday.
You said absolutely nothing.
My point still stands. Btw I hate when people talk for an hour in order to make one point.
And no, I dont care that there are lights that can do 100 lumens for more than an hour , I said that I prefer lights that can do more than 300 lumens for more than an hour without dimming.
And no, the vast majority of small lights cannot do that without dimming , zebra light can.
You said even zebralight cannot do what I said they can
Do I need to post runtime graphs? I’ve tested my own as well my sc600 can do 350 lumens for 4 hours without dimming, convoy s21d can do 280 lumens for 7 hours without dimming
Your reading comprehension is garbage dude.
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What light class are we talking about here? 14500? Those simply lack cooling surface. D3AA with ~250lm (R9080) sustained until empty is the best performer I know of. Most 18650 lights should be able to sustain 300+lm unless they are crap.
Wurkkos FC11C runtime graphs show around 550lm sustained until the battery is empty. A cheapo Convoy C8+ (not small, but 18650) can sustain almost 1000lm until the battery is done for. Just some random lights I looked at in 1lumen tests, can’t be arsed to look into others.
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18650 class
And my point was not that there aren’t light that can turn on at 300 for two minutes
The conversation started by me saying that I hope wurrkos uses a constant current or boost driver in the ts10 max lights instead of linear, cause i prefer lights that can SUSTAIN 300 without dimming
There are tons of lights that can start at 300 but start dimming down in less than 5 minutes
I did not write about any light that can only sustain 300lm for 2 minutes either. The lights I listed can sustain the states lumen from turn-on until the battery is done. As can pretty much any other buck or boost 18650.
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Turbo seems to drop really fast 7-10 seconds , then I reactivated turbo again and by the third time I try to reactivate turbo the light won’t turn on anymore… I checked the battery before doing this test… fully charged it was 4.2, after failure it was 4.14… I have repeated this test and it seems that it doesn’t like to reactivate turbo a third time at all. Using a Wurkkos 18650 that is not usb recchargeable you can continue to reactivate turbo just fine.
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The rapid heating is normal for lights of this size and power. That you weren’t able to turn it on a third time is not a limitation of Anduril, but of the protected battery that came with the light. Using an unprotected battery will help with the unexpected shutdown, but won’t solve the heating.
If you want to stick with the USB rechargeable battery, I suggest to not use turbo by disabling turbo (see turbo style in the manual) und limiting the ceiling to a reasonable value (like 120 or 130).
If you prefer the high output of turbo, a different light might be better. Or use an unprotected battery (without USB charging), but the flashlight will heat up quickly.
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Using the light like that is also a good way to exceed the safe operating temperature of the light, possibly to levels that will send you to the ER. Thermal rampdown occurs for a reason, and if you ever grab something that’s 85C/185F or hotter, you’ll find out why. Flashlights can reach those temperatures.
It’s probably just a well though, since maintaining Turbo would eat the battery fast. Are you fine with battery life in the 10-15 minute range?
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