Clip in the second version is better (1-way clip).
2-way clips make lights thicker and often require 2-hands to use. Their only benefit is for the small portion of users who like to stick their light on a baseball cap… something for which an 18650 light is a bit too large for anyways.
i prefer this clip one way clip so much more than the first one. Though I want it to be deeper.
I’m less concerned with whichever tailcap or head design… I like the captured 1-way clip - ESPECIALLY if you machine things so it won’t rotate without having to crank down the tailcap.
Most importantly - please make this light efficient like the TD05, TD01C and FC11C.
Now that I’ve seen another comment mentioning it - it would be cool to see it offered with an 18350 tube if you guys can make it work with the overall aesthetic.
And please pay some attention to a quality button & click experience on whatever tailcap you go with…
I dont like the new tailcap design, the original ts10 is better, and the original head too…and i prefer the snap in clip …like this
For a 18650 light, the double sided clip may be too heavy for mounting on a hat. I think this benefits for a slim low profile feel. Any news on the single emitter TS10?
Still more voluminous and heavier than a 14500, no? and for about the same energy capacity…
Not so sure about any of this:
“Real RGB” (thinking you mean the switch/aux meds LEDs) is of course great, but pretty much taken for granted right now.
The 519A LEDs are of course great too, but they’re also more expensive and (when compared to the TS10v1 CSP LEDs) IMHO not that much better to justify their price. Has Wurkkos given up on offering great CSP LEDs like the ones in the original TS10v1?
And finally, a 18650/18350 version IMHO negates much of the benefit of the 14500-sized TS10 which is being incredibly small and light and specially great for hat (eg, baseball cap brim) use. It’s also going to face stiff competition from the brands which already have lights in this category, like Emisar/Noctigon and Lumintop – so I think you’d be fighting basically on price.
Again IMO, specially now that you’re apparently EOL’ing the FC13 (as indicated by the “last batch” mention in its product page), you’d be better off with an enhanced version of it, than with a larger-sized TS10.
Sorry if this sounds negative, but I’m a big fan of Wurkkos and desire nothing other than see it succeed.
Anyway, as for the details, my vote would be for the single-direction collared clip in #2, and for the straight-notched tailcap in #1.
And I second the vote for using an efficient driver, besides the @loneoceans designs we nowadays also have @thefreeman’s – I really like the one that came in my D3AA.
That’s non-trivial. And the easiest way I can think of that won’t drive up manufacturing costs considerably would cause issues staying IP67.
Yeah, but some folks like chode-lights.
And when you consider that you can have a larger, deeper optic well on each emitter on an 18350 light than with a 14500 light, it’ll likely have a bit more of that narrow hotspot action that so many folks love, it’s an option I think some will like. Besides, most who are concerned with battery capacity tend to go for 21700 anyways; 21700 beats 1865o in Wh/cm^3
Good point, larger head allows for better optics
Besides, most who are concerned with battery capacity tend to go for 21700 anyways; 21700 beats 1865o in Wh/cm^3
not so sure about this; according to @Parametrek, even the most capable 21700 (the 6000mAh Vapcell F60) has very little extra Wh/L when compared to the best 18650 (the N40 from the same brand): Parametrek Batteries
It’s 844 vs 842 Wh/L, ie less than 0.25% extra, and reason enough for me to stick with 18650s for the use cases where I need as much capacity/volume as possible.
luminus SFT-25R testing now
Wait, what? SFT-25R? As in throwy? I want that!
I would echo the other responses some others have made:
Keep the same design as the TS10, especially if the tail-cap is non-removable. Putting texturing on it makes it look like it can be removed. Aside from that the extant TS10 looks nice and it’ll save on machining. It’ll also keep a family resemblence to the smaller light.
Efficient driver please, ideally with Anduril 2. @thefreeman’s driver for the D3AA is excellent.
Especially with Anduril a good clicky switch is essential.
I don’t mind either way about the pocket clip, except that if the tail-cap is removable deep-carry clips get in the way of unscrewing it to change the battery. If the tail-cap is non-removable a friction-fit clip would be better so that it can be removed if desired.
It needs flashing pads. Don’t forget.
With the TS10 (and FW3A) you are supposed to unscrew the head to change batteries, not tail. If that is the case here also, then don’t put knurling on the tail.
Can fit proper optics though. 18350 lights can work with carclo triples, 14500 can’t unless you make them very thick like D3AA.
Second clip (A2)
Love to get that light in copper.
Mike
Magnetic tail switch please 
It’s good to have you here, Herculees!
If this has a good driver (like lume1 or similar) it is an instant buy. What are your plans for driver or chargin on this light?
I like the clip #1 that allows to use it deeper in a pocket! If possible, I would like it even deeper than the one presented, but these are not “requested discs” on radio 
As for the tailcap, I would prefer the version #2 with diagonal cuts!
Thanks for making it real 
Judging from the size and type of light it should be possible to drop-in replace with a thefreeman or loneoceans FW3A driver, if Wurkkos designs accordingly and does not do anything strange.
