I believe the sft40 is a 5050 footprint. So I reckon we would need another PCB. But I think we’re gonna run out of room. I’ll try to mock it up, that would be stupid cool.
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I’ve had the same idea, but haven’t tried it yet. I will try soon when I get more boards.
Man, if i had the space and tools i would def. tinker with that. a ts10 with 3000-4000k sft40’s really makes this a stupid light with stupid output for it’s size.
It is also an argument to get yet another ts10.
If you are successful in the mockup and consider modding one, i would insta buy one 10/10.
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When I converted one to a single I just modified standard 16mm MCPCBs. No aux so a custom-designed one would be ideal. I made an aux “ring” though. In case anyone missed it here it is:
I modded a 5050 board but didn’t try a SFT40 (the couple I have are nasty green). I think I tried a Yinding 3000k but I’m a tint snob and didn’t care for it.
I also tried a 3030 board with a W2 (I figured too much current for a W1). I didn’t like it with the Convoy T2 reflector I was using.
The reflector/optic will be a limitation with a single. The stock bezel is quite shallow. You can use a T2/T3 bezel (or Sofirn SP10) for more depth but still limited options.
I’m working on a custom bezel made out of a brass plumbing fitting but it’s slow progess with my limited time (also waiting on more reflector/TIRs to arrive before I do more machining).
I’m really curious about the SFT40 5000K. I have one SFT40 (of the 6000-6500K persuasion) on my FC13 and love it, and I have a feeling the 5000K would be even better. Just not so sure about using it in a TS10, because of its throwier character vs the TS10 flooding TIR.
Waiting eagerly for your report!
As long as we’re wishing, what about taking out the TIR and just making it a mule? Or even better, a (very shallow) reflector – pretty sure there’s no space for a reflector, but wonder how a mule would work out.
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I could try a mule. I got some 18mm glass lenses from AliEx already.
See my post above 
Reflectors are sometimes more forgiving than TIRs when shortening them, so chopping the bottom off a reflector to use the stock bezel might work. Maybe I’ll try that too.
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the one way clip I prefer does not ride on the head:
(no need to use the longer clip, unless you need the hatclip option)
That would be just a-mazing! 
please tag me when you post about it!
I didn’t know that. Thanks for the info.
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That’s precisely my use case 
When it’s raining, my usual headband doesn’t work as water gets on my glasses and I can’t see anything. The only way is to use a baseball cap with the TS10 clipped to its visor, and then the visor not only holds the light but also keeps the rain off my glasses. The TS10 with the Wurkkos improved clip is just perfect for that.
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I just tried out a mix of 519A. Two 4000k (maybe 4500k, I forget) and one 2700k, all de-domed. The beam looks great - nice and blended. I’m very happy with this light now but part of me wishes it was warmer. I’ll give it a few days before I mess with it again.
This was my first time successfully flowing the 0603 aux LEDs. I think they’re just a PITA no matter what due to their size, but what really helped was using solder paste. When reflowing 3030-and-up LEDs I typically use a lead-free, rosin-core solder wire. I just kind of lightly brush it on to the pads then drop on the LEDs. Well, this doesn’t work so well with the 0603s.
Using solder paste lets me dab on just a little bit, with a toothpick, right on the pads. Since it’s a paste you can then stick the LED onto it and it will hold it in place. Once all three are positioned you can heat up the board. I installed the aux LEDs first, checked that they worked with my DMM, then went on to the 519As.
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I have just one word for you: B E A M S H O T S ! ! !
In more words: congrats on the mod and the result sounds wonderful, and we would very much like to see pictures! 
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I’ll try to take some pics within a day or two. You can only notice the separate tints if you’re white wall hunting at a couple feet or less. Further than that and it’s blended and pretty unnoticeable.
Side-by-side with a quad 519A 4000k dedomed, the mixed one is unsurprisingly a little warmer and definitely rosier. Now part of me wants to redo that quad (D4v2) with a mix. Sigh, it never ends.
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I got a video in here of the reflow, it’s kinda cool to watch: Imgur: The magic of the Internet
But yes they are a pain, I have a board I’m designing for the RGB aux that use 0402 LEDs that’s gonna suck to work with.
Also happy for your success, I’m looking forward to trying it myself.
Oof, I was going to suggest a revision to use bigger aux LEDs. But you must be working on something else entirely if you need smaller LEDs. I’m excited to see it when it’s ready
The original board will work with 0805. I just have mostly 0603.
The new board gives the use of separate 0402 LEDs for each of the RGB channels. There is a board for the FW3 that does this and it’s pretty amazing.
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Time to order more parts. Hmm, I see there’s 0805 UV LEDs… anyone try UV aux? The optic would need to be modded to not block the aux, or maybe just make it a mule.
As a total ignorant in the art of reflowing, but a handy guy (if I say so myself) with a soldering iron, I must say: this is amazing. Even more amazing that this kind of heat doesn’t eff up the LEDs nor the other components – I know, they are certainly specced to withstand that, but how much Celsius are we talking about? 200C?
Again, amazing. Thanks for posting that.
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Anyone know if the aux current is set via firmware or hardware? I’m thinking it must be firmware since there’s low, high, and the pulsing mode. But surely there’s a max current limited by the hardware. I’m wondering if it’s possible to tweak the firmware to more or less make this a two channel light.