I wonder if that could be solved by enlarging the hole in the base of the Tir optics cones… I suspect the 3535 die is running into the opening in the bottom of the optics that originally used 2121 sized LEDs
great to hear your dedomed 519a are working… probably lower Tint DUV than the incoming E21a… although the E21a would let you close the bezel further…
since the mcpcb is pressed to the shelf by the optic… it might be advantageous to get the bezel to close farther…
fwiw, Im not a Turbo user, and there have been no heat issues with the sw45k in my TS10, even though the bezel is not fully closed, it probably is pressing on the LED domes.
In my case, apparently the mcpcb is making good enough contact w the shelf for effective heat transfer, particularly at the limited outputs I use…
I dont go above the default ceiling of 120/150 (about 270 lumens for my LEDs), and usually use even lower outputs, because my applications are indoors…
That’s exactly the issue, I considered filing the bottom of the 3 openings a bit to get a gap. I just used my calipers to measure from the mcpdb to the top of the emitter and the CSP are like .5mm thick compared to nearly 1mm thick for the dedomed 519a.
I’ll still try the E21A out, as I prefer the tad bit cooler CCT of 4500K. Or I’ll just have to buy a couple more TS10’s, one with sw45k would be nice too.
I just tried tightening the bezel a bit more, not quite all the way. I don’t want to press my luck and do any damage.
I’m not a turbo user either, these tiny lights heat up too quick for that. I had even disabled turbo with the stock emitters but just wanted to try it with the new emitters. I’ll definitely have to disable it if I go with E21A’s.
Might just be down to luck, but of my 5 4000k TS10s they all have been neutral or slightly rosy. The stock 4000k emitters are very nice, around 4060k on average and -0.0028 DUV
I decided to strip the anodizing off my TS10 , but accidentally made a couple gouges while wrestling with the tail cap. So, I figured I’d stonewash it. The gouges are still visible but nowhere near as bad as they were. Pics along with my S2+ I did about four months ago.
I don’t have any 519A lights yet (actually my TS10 with stock Lattice Power CSP’s is the only <6000K light I have ), but I agree with you two both, for these non-famous LEDs they look just fantastic, Wurkkos hit the nail on the head with them.
BTW, if anyone is willing to mod a TS10 with 519As for me, I would OFC be willing to pay for the privilege – please PM.
I gotta ask, any issues/inconveniences after unscrewing the tail cap? I’m thinking of doing that to mine, but not if it brings any issues (mine works almost like a clock, and not willing to give up that).
So far so good, everything works just as well as before. I just made sure the little rubber piece was oriented the correct way and the o-rings around the internal tube were seated properly.
there is no reason and no benefit to unscrewing the tailcap… Suggest you leave it alone… If you unscrew it, since there is no retaining ring, the switch parts fall out… so in practice, it is not useful to be able to open the tail.
here are the parts:
not shown is another O ring in a groove in the body tube, that helps support the front of the inner tube (the black one). Removing the inner tube is not helpful, it just meants you have to fiddle with getting that O ring back in the right spot.
I took it apart out of curiosity, and then used loctite to put it back together again so it would not come loose.
For comparison here is the FWAA tail cap and switch parts (they are held in by a retaining ring that the TS10 lacks):
fwiw, FWAA has a glass lens over the optic, that the TS10 does not have.
Has anyone tried tint mixing with @MasterNate 's 3535 board? I’m wondering how the TS10 optic plays with a mix.
I’m trying to use up emitters I have before buying new ones. I have several 519A 4000K dedomed and a single 3000k dedomed. I want it warmer than 3x 4000k and wonder if two of those plus the 3000k would work well.
Thanks for that info! I’m really glad I asked before trying it, effing my particularly great switch (which seems to be the part most folks have issues with) would have been quite the bummer…
so in practice, it is not useful to be able to open the tail.
My idea was that un/screwing the tail would be easier than the head because, with the longer & improved TS10 clip I’m using (whose ‘tip’ actually rests on the head) I have to pull it away with one hand while turning the head with the other, lest the head gets scratched. And that gymnastic is not particularly easy, specially in the field…
here are the parts
Wow, thank you for that! Really instructive, both the pic and the explanation! I really like to see how things are built, and now I have a much clearer idea about the TS10. I will definitely not mess with the tail cap on mine after that…
For comparison here is the FWAA tail cap and switch parts (they are held in by a retaining ring that the TS10 lacks):
In that light, the FWAA seems much more robust and well built than the TS10. I love my TS10 despite all the glue, but now I’m starting to understand what led Wurkkos to use it everywhere…
Yeah it’s possible and I definitely will once someone other than KD stocks them. I have a big order from late June that has yet to arrive (includes the SFT40 5000k I’ll be trying in a TS10). I’ll be giving someone else my business for a while.
), but I agree with you two both, for these non-famous LEDs they look just fantastic, Wurkkos hit the nail on the head with them.
