There is some discussion of this LED HERE.
Farther down he has a set of of beam shots. It looks very green. Of course he doesn’t mention any camera settings. Also the ones he used were 5000K 70 CRI versions.
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With this I am completely out. I hate these 1616/2323 footprint emitters because modding these is really difficult.
Single 3535 or triple 3535, but no special footprint please. And Cree in general is not known for great tints either.
Looks like I have to ask for someone who sells old TS10 SG, at least if no 3535 is used in a next gen TS10.
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This:
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Trust me, some of their best batch are very beautiful but they are extremely difficult to find. Hank some years ago used Cree XPL-HI 4500K and they was very similar to 219B SW45, probably before Covid time and sure a super rare batch.
Only one of my best friend was lucky and buy a KR4 TI Crackle with the best XPL i see in my life with this neutral tint 5 years ago.
Also i have a 3500K 80CRI and they are very beautiful with no green tint. Recently i mod an S2+ with a 5000K from a Firefly e07 first edition and it is good. So i am with you with the format 3535 but @Wurkkos can try to test some Cree batches with Hi-CRI and below BBL line
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By your own admission those seem to be very narrow circumstances where there have been good results. Personally I’d rather not take that kind of Gamble if it’s going to be a 1616 footprint.
Also @Wurkkos, if you ship it with a 3535 triple footprint, you’re going to make more sales with the people who want to see what they can make your products do. I really love my TS10s, though I don’t see myself buying 8 of the TS10v3s if I’m going to have to source new MCPCBs just to correct a tint I don’t.like.
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Here we go again.
The TS26 ended up being a rug-pull with the emitters and the 519a that was promised here only released months later.
We’ve gone again from a decent quality emitter so a random low CRI cool white Cree emitter.
If you aren’t going to listen why bother posting here in the first place?
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Please don’t do this to us again. We hated the TS26 because we were promised a 519a from the start. And then Wurkkos chased lumens instead of CRI. And it backfired! It wasn’t until after we all complained about how bad the LED was that you finally gave in and put the 519a in it.
A 519a isn’t much more expensive. Most people won’t even care if there’s a slight price increase.
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A Single 519a IS an option in the TS10SG.
Only DomeLess LEDs fit in the TS10 Triple.
Triple 519a is not an option, because the domes do not fit under the Optic.
For the TS10 Triple, the Hopthink LEDs are domeless and have beautiful Rosy tint.
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I wholly agree with this, I didn’t even care for the CSP emitters in the TS10 in any CCT, they were all green to me. The only TS10 I have currently working has dedomed 5000K 519A. My other ones have just been in a box waiting for me to replace the drivers and LEDs, I think I have 5 or 6 TS10s in different materials. I bought some replacement drivers from Wurkkos, I unfortunately just haven’t really had the time to fix them.
An uncommon footprint is not the way to go. Triple 3535 LEDs fit just fine in the regular V1/V2 TS10, although they have to be domeless afaik because of the short optic.
I don’t really like the CSPs, but they would be far better than the XD16 from Cree, mostly because it’s all but guaranteed to have bad tint. I don’t care as much about max brightness, even 1000 ok is plenty for most “EDC” uses. I care MUCH more about how low (well sunder sublumen) the output can get. It’s not like a light this small will have a high sustainable output anyway.
Please Wurkkos, rethink your decisions to use 1616 or anything below 3535 emitters, especially Cree ones. Except I would say that Nichia E17A or E21A would be okay, but emitter technology has come a long way in the current year.
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This has me thinking that I should put FL351A or NTG35 into one of my TS10s. I have a Cu one with dedomed 519A, but I think that offering those LEDs factory would not be greatly feasible without redesigning the light to accept an optic like the Carclo 105xx, and that would require the head to be larger. The TS10 is very small, a great size.
Although I said they should use the 105xx, I am now thinking that wouldn’t be the greatest idea, since the biggest thing about the TS10 is its miniscule size in my opinion. However I still do think they should offer the new light with 3535 sized emitters. There are a lot of good options, but not as many domeless ones that have good tint and CRI.
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Second that. For me it is clear that XD16 are considered because of lower price if bought in bulk (and existing MCPCB?)
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Okay, okay, I understand. We haven’t decided to use it yet. We’re just testing it. This XD16 was upgraded in July 2025 and has a 90CRI
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Probably..but..pfff..new flashlight..new driver..why not new led? 
My TS10 is a mini beast..good anodization, no parastic drain, good tint..but why not new standards..
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Since CRI is a very old and bad test 90 can be good but 90 can also be surprisingly bad. tm-30 and ssi is a way better metric.
anyways it all depends on the cromaticety bin you actually get.
and as far as i know cree is not selling a guaranteed below Duv bin for this led
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But what is the duv and R9 value? High CRI doesn’t necessarily mean nice tint.
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I believe these are true statements, please correct me if mistaken.
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The new TS10 Triple and TS10SG will use a Buck driver
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No Boost Driver
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No sublumen output
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No dual fuel.
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No 519a LEDs in the TS10 Triple
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No 3535 mcpcb in the TS10 Triple.
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Yes a single 519a LED in the TS10SG
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Just as a point of reference, I did think the XHP70.3 5700K high CRI was good until I put it next to a Nichia 519a 5700K or B35AM 5700K. Despite being deemed high CRI, there is a very noticeable difference where I will instinctively prefer the better tint.
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I can’t cite or provide sources, but there have been studies that have shown the average person finds a rosy or slightly negative DUV tint more pleasant than a green or higher DUV tint.
These are people who aren’t involved in this sort of hobby or even possibly completely ignorant of the aspects of light such as CRI and tint, possibly even CCT beyond the basics.
I very rarely use any of my cool white lights, because most of them have unpleasant tint, and completely discounting the color rendering. The only real exception is the big SBT-90.2 light I have. I’ve swapped most of them out for warmer better tinted emitters. For example I find the FL707MD 4000K 90 CRI to be a pretty good “throwy” LED in the correct host, the tint reminds me greatly of a good SST-20 4000K. Any floodier lights are using Nichia emitters or similar. I know my preferences.
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https://tsapps.nist.gov/publication/get_pdf.cfm?pub_id=915672
The results indicate that
the chromaticities of lighting sources below the Planckian locus (around Duv≈ -0.015) are well
preferred for natural appearance of objects in typical indoor lighting environment in the CCT
range from 2700 K to 6500 K, and that chromaticities above the Planckian locus are less
acceptable or preferred.
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-0.015 is so rosy! I think my rosiest rosy lights hit -0.02 but most of them are -0.005 to -0.008.