with a ~200 Lumen P60 host it will gain about 10 Lumens. I am not sure how many Lumens AR will get you with lights this big or bright though (XML @ ~3A). I am not sure if its a 10 lumen gain across the board or if its a percentage gain that scales up with lumen output.
Biggest drawback with AR coatings is they (supposedly) scratch more easily. Although the AR coatings on my SF E2L and Fenix E21 remain scratch-free.
So with a UCLp you gain ~2-3Klux? What do you do with 7 HD2010's? :P Actually it is such an excellent performer that I would easily buy another one if I wanted to make a gift to someone...
Mine also came with no flaws, and in 2 weeks time with recorded post, not bad at all...
I mod this flashlight for other people. ;)
But 2 are mine.
With chanched LED & Driver it has ~10-15KLux more.
Andi,
Which driver are you using? Which LED?
-Garry
lol You took the words right out of my mouth! :D
And I think I found it - pulled over from the "Fandfire HD2010 . . " thread:
and
and
AND. . .
So Andi, it's a 10x7135 chip? (The 350mA version)? And what "brass ring" is used for the driver swap? Brass ring from a C8??? I don't remember a brass ring in my C8.
-Garry
Sweet!!! If the original can throw ~300m, I can imagine after your mods! Would love to see beamshots of the modded one if at some point you could take a couple of photos!!!
Thanks, garrybunk.
I use the 8x7135 V2 driver from KD with 3,04A and piggyback 2 x 7135 chips on it (3,74A)
One brassring is out of a C8 pill (some has one, some not), the other is a 18mm heating pipe (shortened). Either inside diameter must chanched to 17mm(it has 16mm), or driver diameter must be chanched. (I do both a little bit)
Beamshots you can see HERE (Nr. 11 is my first HD2010 with ~53KLux, my new one has ~57KLux (use a XM-L U2 "1T" tint, instead a "1C"...on copper base)
SR51 and Catapult V2 are good to compare. ;)
Another HD2010, but this Version is with orig. glas and has only ~52KLux: HERE (Nr. 86 is HD2010 and good to compare is the Olight M3X, Nr. 94)
What about the use of a P60 pill - didn't I see someone used one? That might have been on a different light though.
-Garry
With the original driver it draws ~4.2A without pushing down the battery (I remember someone else mentions this but can't remember who). The only single "complain" I have about this light if I have to find a flaw, which I also mentioned in another thread, is that the SOS is actually SOO, I suppose the Chinese who programmed the driver didn't know Morse code??? :D
I mean, the orig. driver @High is DD.
I don´t like it.
That one was mine. The light shown in this thread has been modded with a cut down brass pill form a P60. It now uses a 3.5A driver (10x7135).
Ok, good to know as I have some empty P60 pills. Where had you posted this photo before. I scanned through this thread (because I thought it was you that did it) but didn't see it.
-Garry
I think the JohnyMac 26650 review sticky is the first place I posted that pic. I have been posting most of my comments to that thread, since its sticky'd it won't get lost as easily.
Yeah, the info on the "HD2010" lights seem to be kinda scattered all over! Fortunately this is my most watched model of light (been watching that FandyFire version since December 2011 at least) and so I watch these comments closely (I just forget where some of that info is stored!).
-Garry
I just got my HD2010 yesterday and am pleased to see my observations/experiences are not unique . . . .
I purchased mine from Tmart for $42 on 5-24-12 and it arrived 6-8-12. (notice delivered to my old address) Like others here, mine came in a crushed package and has several minor flaws thay give it the overall look of a light somebody returned/subsequently resold. All of the (dry) o-rings were too small, didn't seal against anything and the loose reflector had flakes of something on it. Upon removing the tube from the head, the pill was loose and no matter how I fiddle with it, the emitter is slightly off-center.
I was also glad to read I wasn't the only one that could get tail cap readings on high and SOS only. I was amazed however, to see 5.0 amps, settling to 4.50 and then 4.60 rising to 4.70 on subsequent readings.
I plan a full review but I will go ahaed and tell you that even with this light's few warts, I'm in love. It is my brightest single emitter torch and with a 52mm SMO, I'm guessing it's going to out-throw everything I have.
All in all; pretty damn amazing light.
Foy
Basically, I consider this an improved X9. It’s kind of building that popularity in a similar fashion. I see the upgrades as being more compact and accepting both 26650 and 18650. Even though I got the fluke goofy driver I view this light as a home run. Once I replace the driver this light will easily be in my top three.
If you have time at some stage can you please do the run times in your office that you do so well as I have read that the current draw drops of very quickly as the voltage drops slightly. This may just be batteries but it would be good to read it from the guru and what the light output drops to at 3 amps. If this light is as good as what some are saying I’m excited.Cheers.
Here you go . . .
Began with King Kong 26650 (INR) charged to 4.20 volts.
| time | Foyometer | exterior temperature |
| 3:40 pm | 25 (room light with flashlight off) | |
| 3:40 | 164 | |
| 3:41 | 141 (sag) | |
| 3:50 | 136 | 114º |
| 4:00 | 135 | 119º |
| 4:10 | 135 | 116º |
| 4:20 | 132 | 116º |
| 4:30 | 132 | 112º |
| 4:40 | 129 | 108º |
| 4:50 | 126 | 107º |
| 5:00 | 120 | 105º |
Ended with battery discharged to 3.44 volts.
Run time: 1:20
While the HD2010 is far from the most useful light I have, it is one of the most impressive lights I have. I am going to 2 2 mods to it basically, I am swapping out the T6 for a copper mounted U2 from INTL-Outdoor and then changing out the centering ring to one that also protects the solder points so it doesn’t short out ever, and finally I will be Artic Alumina epoxying the pill in place where the beam is the best focused, hopefully all this will gain me LUX and keep the refpector from moving around a bit.