UltraFire SH-4A (EA4 clone)

UltraFire SH-A4

This isnt a full review, just a few pics and comments (some already posted in the other thread).

Bought from FastTech for $28

  • The modes are as follows:
  • Ultra low > low > medium > high
  • Press and hold for 2 seconds in any mode (including off) to access turbo
  • Double click fast in any mode (including off) to access strobe
  • No memory, always starts on ultra low
  • Must be cycled through the regular modes to turn off Only 1 thing so far that is annoying, if you are trying to change modes too fast it will enter strobe.

Beam shots are about 100 meters to the big tree in the background.

Mouse out for - EA4 clone

Mouse over for JetBeam PA40W

The hot spot of the SH-4A is narrower and brighter than the P40AW and the spill is also brighter.

The PA40W has a bigger hotspot but it the light doesnt travel as far.

I just partial disassembled the SH-4A and took a few quick pictures.

The first few photos are trying to show various angels of what appears to be corrosion on the terminals.

Inside the business end appears to be a standard 20mm star attached to a aluminum plate with thermal paste, the aluminium plate appears to be taped in place with masking tape. Below are some different angels and lighting conditions.

It does have a small gap between the bezel and body, this is due to a o-ring separating them. It also has a 2nd o-ring between the reflector and the glass. The thick round ring below appears not to do anything at all.

And lastly the tail cap showing the "SYSMAX" logo.

It also had small dust particles on the reflector that I tried to clean with a can of compressed air but it froze up the reflector and left marks, I then rinsed it in water with some mild dish liquid but I cant get it to dry without leaving water marks either. I should have just left the dust on it.

Also the button is on a slight angle as instead of going straight up, I think it could be fixed if I took the light apart further but I don't think I will.

Thanks Ezarc for the mini review. Very helpful. Just guessing but the tape might be taking up excess clearance from the heat sink and outer wall to stop it rattling around. I’d almost suggest that the heatsink will have very little contact with the lip or outside edge of the light with the tape on it hence very little cooling of the led. Thats a bummer about the dust on the reflector. That Kangaroo still looks stunned in the background. :wink:

masking tape, seriously :expressionless:

I cleaned the reflector with isopropyl alcohol and its fine now. When the water dried it left the minerals on it because its hard/tap water but thats gone now.

The aluminum disc doesn’t touch the body much, it actually moved and its taped to the driver/switch hosing and I wasn’t able to turn it on. I unscrewed the bezel with batteries in it and that made the driver/switch housing and LED get pushed out the front. So I ended up taking the tape off but then had to put it back on to keep it all together. I should have taken pics but I was too focused on trying to put it back together without damaging anything. But at least now I have the button centered.

And the LED is stuck to the heat sink with bubble gum :stuck_out_tongue:

That’s fine, as long as the b.gum is reusable :bigsmile:

Does this clone have any sorta lockout mode like the EA4?

I really have to get my eyes checked. I can’t for the life of me see the kangaroo.

it’s a joke, there is no kangaroo in the picture, he was startled and run away when ezarc powered his EA4 clone :bigsmile:

No lockout.

That’s a very nice looking beam being produced by a light that looks like the internals were cobbled together from a junk box. Is that a large chunk missing from the aluminum plate that supports the star?

What’s the distance to the far trees lit up in that photo?

Yeah its missing a chunk of the aluminum, I think it might be so its easier to pry out or to visually line up the button even though its on a angle to the button.

Its nearly exactly 100m to the trees using google earth to measure it.

Hi to all. I live in Brazil, so english is not my language.
This is just my second post.
I read a lot here, but post very little.
Dear Ezarc, please tell me how did you unscrew the front bezel.
I too would like to align the switch button.
I´ve tried with rubber friction, but it doesn´t move. Was it glued?
Thanks
Eduardo

Hey, Thanks for the Heads-Up, Ezarc. Man, I was impressed with the Mouse Out. From what you Posted, it looks like they were a little messy with the assembly, but, Man, that looks impressive in the Beam Shots — I might just have to order one — J) J) J)

From memory I used a rubber glove or pressed it against the sole of my show and twisted it, it didn’t have any glue on the threads.

Looks very throwy and powerful.

I would love to get this light, but that masking tape really turned me off.

I wouldn’t, for the price , the modes are crap, you have to cycle through all the modes to turn off.

Thanks for your information Edarc. Unfortunatelly mine seems glued.
Regarding the UI, it´s awful, but I can tolerate it. It´s much cheaper than EA4 and seems to be as bright as it in turbo.
I also have the EA4, but I´m afraid the rubber switch will degrade.
Should I poor some drops of WD40 in the small gap between the bezel and the body, to try to unscrew it? I´m afraid the oil can reach the reflector.
Best Regards
Eduardo

I don’t think oil will help.

Heat would help if it is glued but I have never had to use it to disassemble any thing so I can’t give advice on how to do it.

You can get a replacement rubber switch from FastTech for cheap

http://www.fasttech.com/search?silicone%20sidecaps

I think if you can’t get the bezel off with perhaps its worth making another thread as lots of people here have different methods how to do it but won’t be reading this thread.

Are there any EA4 clones with a clicky that are worth getting?