Does anybody have one of these or any information about it. It appears to be a copy of the UFH3 headlight UI in a flashlight, side switch, magnetic tail, very interesting.
Hi Erik,
Really nice light. I wonder how hard it's driven. Nice and small. Magnetic tail too.
I am guessing it has the same driver as the UF-H3, but maybe not since that is an XPE and this is an XML. If it's driven anywhere close to 3 amps I am getting one. I really like the ramping feature, the side switch and the magnetic tail also. This really has everything I want in a light at a fairly reasonable price.
Edit: I guess I am late to the party there is already a post on this light, sorry.
Too bad it probably 99% would have PWM. So even if it ramps down to the Ultrafire H3 levels, it'd not be that good. H2/H3 are much cheaper lights, so i can live with that.
I have asked Ric of CNQG to see if he can get it for us....
Definitely not the same driver, H3 pulls below 0,4A, this one should be close to 2,5A (to reach 800 emitter lumens). I hope they keep low low mode (0,01A) and pretty quick ramping (about 5 seconds).
More info on KD it says it's driven at 2.2 amps max which is a safe level, but not quite high enough for my needs. I was really hoping it would be driven closer to 3 amps, I guess we won't know for sure until someone gets one and tests it.
3A in a such small flashlight? I don't think it's a good idea unless it has some sort of thermal protection (which I think is too expensive/complicated for Ultrafire). 2,2A to the emitter still give 600 OTF lumens - not bad.
Well, i'd not believe the specs. All the lights are literally 2200mA or 2800mAh. LOL! Anyway, still too ex!
I have a Ultrafire H3D with a similar ramping mode. I try to stop it at the max setting but it is always PWM and I don't know if it is because of the H3d's reflector-less emitter, the light is always kind of blue and dim. I guess this one will have a much brighter look but still, the ramping isn't that practical as it sounds.
We still need a cheaper Zebralight.
I wonder if they don't drive this one hard because the metal surrounding the forward switch on the head of the light might inadvertently allow someone to touch hot metal when operating the forward clicky...
If I was driving this design I'd probably want to keep it at 2A. Too conservative?
Probably because light itself is small, it just couldn't dissipate so much heat and emitter would burn after 5-10 minutes.
If it has a screw in pill it should have better heat dissipation characteristics than a P-60 light. Do you own any P-60 lights phantom?
Cnqualitygoods should be carrying it soon....will be updated into the list tomorrrow.
I do (with Manafont UF XM-L module) and I think it's stupid tu push over 3A. Brightness drops very quickly not because of no regulation but frying emitter.
PS. I think both threads about UF T50 should be merged.
You think that it's a frying emitter and not thermal sag causing your Manafont drop in to dim, interesting.
I am not sure how we could merge the threads, do you have any ideas?
It's not very dim, but drops by over 20% in first 3 minutes. Emitter can't be ok after 30 minutes of continuous usage with such bad heat transfer. T50 has better heat dissipation, thing if - it has no mass to receive so much heat. It's just too small for it (would be burning hot after 10 minutes). That's why Zebralight/Spark are limiting brightness of their flashlights after 5 minutes, that's why I think it's good it's not hardly driven. 2,2A and 600 out of the front (~720 emitter) lumens are still really decent values.
On other forums moderators can merge threads, I thought BLF is no different.
Phantom23, your P60 drops 20+% over 3 mins? That's good. My Ultrafire is well into 30% and over 40% if unwrapped. LOL! But then it's pretty warm weather here. But then my P60 Dereelight CL1H V4 is much better, just over 10% in 3 mins. (prob die to drop-in to host is optimised, i never even wrapped that one).
So far I think the XM-L is pretty hardy, won't really fry. But if you cook it past 5A then yeah i guess so. Limited experience here... i think the bond wires cook first...dunno.
One thing to consider is that there is very little mass and surface area to buffer as heatsink, if your ambient temp is not low (< 10 deg C, no wind). This is a pretty small light for a XM-L over 2 amps.
Remember also that with the ultrafire and many other budget xm-l drop-ins the drivers are voltage regulated or plain direct drive with PWM for lower modes. The fast output drop from turn on is equally well-explained by current drop due to voltage sag of the cells under high currents.
I guess many budget lights like the Yezl M7X / UF-980L are not that much different seriously. They don't drop that much, nowhere near. The DRY triple can suck nearly 5 amps, noticeably more than the P60s (courtesy of a very good switch from what i tested), and it drops 7% within 3 minutes in turbo DD with the really good Sanyo cells. (it's in my youtube vid tested against the TK70)
The light is available at CNQ now.