I recently purchased this light for hog hunting:
First time out, I was quite impressed. I had my doubts about it, I must say. It has a nice narrow beam, just like I was looking for. Problem is it just ain’t powerful enough. What are my choices as far as modding goes? I definitely want to keep it single mode. Is it worthy?
Thanks,
Steve
P.S. I’m a noob to the mod game. So go easy on me.
Welcome to the world of LED hand-torches! :party:
Why Green? A Green XR-E can’t even take a whole amp of current, which means you can hunt deep into the night, but you’re going to have to wait for a closer shot.
You can get a whole lot more light out with a better emitter. Single mode is the only useful mode for a gun light, but if you do upgrade the LED, you’ll need to either mod your Driver or replace it too. Top Tip: if you go White, be sure to get a Warm White or Neutral White with the lowest “K” number (<5000K) in order to better pick out the gnarly beasties in the bush.
About the only option you have available is to make sure you’re putting all 700mA into the LED. If you put your voltmeter into Current mode, remove the torch tailcap and measure between the end of the battery and the body of the light (the LED should come on), if you’re anywhere close to 1A (efficiency of the driver means you’d see more here than at the LED), you’re already at the top of that LED’s game. Not that it’s going to matter much.
Not a lot of hope, I’m sure. I’m trying to find a green LED that can take more power & pump more light, but it’s not looking promising so far.
Good luck, and be sure to keep in touch!
Dim
BTW, on behalf of all the people who don’t yet know what desperate times we’ve entered thanks to this feral menace, THANK YOU for helping eradicate some of them!
xre green can definitely take more than 1 amp when properly mounted. see datasheet.
the tough part about driving an xre green hard in a single cell light is the high forward voltage - the higher the current you try to use, the higher the voltage required.
you can change the driver, and/or reduce resistance in the light (though that by itself might not make a visually significant difference).
lots of info on here about green/red emitters and hunting lights, just takes a bit of searching.
Not trying to cut you, bud, but I did. Just like I always do.
Here’s the screenshot (click for the full datasheet, right-click->View Image for a closer look at just this pic) with the Maximum current listed:
I highlighted the Green line. Isn’t that “700” in the “Maximum” column? The OP said he wasn’t experienced with modding; and overdriving an older LED seems pretty esoteric to me.
OTOH, I never saw the Vf! That would certainly smash my comment about runtime!
Mostly I just think the green and other weird colors should be left to the “tacticool” gang. “Zombie Apocalypse” indeed! The pigs will actually kill us, if we don’t kill them first! When it comes to killing things in the Real World, I’m a hardcore “IDENTIFY YOUR TARGET” kind of guy. But I’m old-fashioned that way.
+1 on the suggestion to clean up the current path!
Thanks for reading.
ah, you are correct on the datasheet 
in fact, i was even mis-recalling the white max current (thought it was 1.4A)
anyway, if you think that 3.5Vf is bad, look at the graph on page 7, it gives a much better idea
in my UFT20, with XRE green on copper sinkpad, I can run high quality 18650 direct drive w/o a problem…I can’t get more than 1.4A at the tail (though I never charge over 4.2V) and it works fine
as far as green or red being tacticool - well, maybe for some, but if you were a real night hunter, you wouldn’t have that opinion
I modded (and subsequently sold) a green-emitter thrower using a Dongrui All-920 and a green XR-E emitter that was driven at 2.1A using a Nanjg 105c with 2 of the 7135s removed. It was bright at the time and I never received any complaints from the buyer. I don't know if it would handle long runtimes without burning the emitter, but it was impressive! Details here:
I wonder why my green xr-es won’t go as high (current) as others have gotten with same driver. Definitely not the cells I’m using….
I bought highest bin xre green I could get from Mouser….
The Cree XP-E has a max rated output of 114 lm @ 350 mA
The XP-E2 is max rated to 122 lm @ 350 mA
Compare that to the XR-E rated t 67 lm @ 350 mA
+1.
And it’s a mod the OP could do with minimal effort/skill/tools.
And the Green XP-E still only takes a maximum of 1A (according to Cree, who could just be lying), meaning the existing driver should be “adequate”. At least “for now”…
I wonder if the reflectors are compatible?
i assumed you’re implying he should use white light. if you’ve hunted hogs, as I have (in florida), you’d know they don’t stick around for white light
green isn’t tacticool - it works
if you can’t tell this difference between a dog and a hog, or what is behind your target, green or white won’t matter
I can’t get over 1.4A because of the Vf.
sorry you got butthurt
if you want a lot more green light - sst-90
expensive, but worth it. very easy to de-dome.
despite the throw numbers, it is MUCH more usable than xpe/xre green because there’s just sooo much light
Big emitter, not certain it would fit the stock reflector.
good point
didn’t have to mod the 7g5v2 reflector, but I think I would have had to if I didn’t dedome.
I am using XP-E with ordinary Nanjg 101, works fine althout I did not do a runtime test (left it on max for a prolonged time)…
18.99 ebay 2 ours ago 
Hi guys,
I build primarily lights with RED and GREEN emitters for hunting Predators and other critters at night. I just finished 5 Small Sun ZY-T13’s. Four with Green XPE-2 and a white one with XPG-2 for a hog hunter in Texas. The green xpe-2’s are mounted on copper sinkpads and I drilled and tapped the housing to screw down the stars with a thin layer of AS-5. The ANO was removed from the housing also. The greens are being driven at 2.1A. The output is an astonishing 85Kcd(148Kcd w/66mm aspheric lens). This is up from the last batch of T13’s i built with the old XPE held in place with AA epoxy and driven at 1.4A and put out a respectable 35Kcd. Even after 30 minutes of runtime the drop in throw is only about 2%.
The white XPG-2 is putting out about 151Kcd(334Kcd w/ 66mm aspheric lens) at 3.8A.
The T13 and lights with similiar reflectors produce a beam very well suited for night hunting.
The data sheets are good guidelines and have alot of good info, combined with the output graph’s that Match has done for us and newer assembly techniques these color emitters can be driven harder than ever before.
I have built a couple HS-802’s as well. The output of the stock HS-802 can be increased substantially. The brass pills are available. If you put a high bin xpe-2(red or green)on a copper sinkpad and drive it at 1.4A, you will not be dissapointed.
Note: Like dthrckt mentioned with a green emitter in a single 18650 light, much more than 1.4A and the Vf goes too high and the single battery wont work.
whoo hoo! guess i’ve been away too long, didn’t know xpe2 came in colors now!
sad part is, now I need to buy some and rebuild the lights I put together just a few months ago lol
PM sent . don’t wan’t to stink up the OP too much.
Yes, it is worthy.
Maybe kevin would hook you up with an xpe2 green on copper pad - you would only need to unsolder the wires to the current emitter, put a little thermal grease on the bottom of the new one, and solder the wires to it.