Well, according to the chart by Match found here, you're around 850. You probably have to figure some loss for out-the-front lumens (20%?). Someone else would have to chime in on that.
Oh, thank you Garry. Thought is 1300 lumen. But in fact is 850lm.
I also feel satisfied because the beam convergence. Distance of 200 meters I can be clearly seen.
The "1300 Lumens" (and similar bogus unrealistic lumen ratings) are what we call "Chinese Lumens". They are just lies for marketing purposes. You can review real world tests (along with Cree data sheets) to see the "true" outputs of various LED's. Realistically the XM-L T6 bin tops out around 850 lumens though. You'll catch on to their game as learn more.
Yes, running the light with a 26650 is necessary for highest output! Go with an INR King Kong!
The problem with resistance mods in this light is that you may burn out the LED due to the driver being direct drive. Also, if you haven't gleaned this from the HD2010 threads yet, be careful of the reflector shorting across the LED's connection wires. You'll probably want to add some sort of insulator between them. (My HD2010's LED is apparently burned out and I can only imagine it's from shorting these leads by the reflector.)
Oh, I think so. I am using cell 18650 of Sanyo 2600mA. Maybe not strong enough.
Tried to Panasonic 18650 - 3100mA, but not other…
I will be looking to buy, ( not sell in VietNam ) and try again…
tomorrow, I will replace wire…
FYI - a lot of people are having E1320 mod the HD2010 pill with a Nangj current regulated driver (extra AMC chips for about 3.5A total output). This is my plan too.
So I'm considering replacing the emitter in mine to a new U3 1 C from I/O (not sure, but it appears my original emitter is burned out). Should I buy a 20mm star and file it down slightly? Or should I stick with the 16mm? What would you do?