I have to say my initial disappointment with the U2 upgrade is gone after testing it outside in the dark. While it still doesn’t put out the streetlight it definitely picked up some more brightness in the corona. When compare to my C-88 with a U2 and a 3.5 amp driver they had equal corona brightness before with the T6 now the HD2100 with the U2 and the 3.8 amp driver overpowers the C88 corona so there is some visible improvement. The thing is just a plain bad ass thrower easily the best thrower I have. I desperately need to get a light meter and make an integration sphere so I can get some actual measurements on these upgrades.
So I think I might buy another one. Here’s what I’m thinking. My hotspot isn’t the greatest, I think because the emitter isn’t far enough inside the reflector. I think my wiring is too thick. I’m thinking of drilling the reflector out to remove the flat section, which should allow the LED to find the sweet spot in the reflector. This can be adjusted by screwing the main pill up and down.
As for buying another one from T-mart, anyone have any coupons? I’ve already used mine…
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I’ve been considering buying a second one as well, lol.
tmart got mine to san diego 6 days after ordering it.
And the light is perfect.
They are both right around the 9w mark. If it really was 6w then the LED would only be getting a measly 2 amps.
Yup, same “head scratching” here :bigsmile: Really want to try one out 
And, AFAIK, they have even the same driver. As for TangsF, as I said a few times already, you can get one for less than 34 from DD (and you can use coupons!). Don’t remember who bought one but, if I remember well, TF is slightly less driven at HI 
Maybe it’s just a batch “issue”.
From what I hear they are the same, just branded differently. I wouldn’t go by the 9 or 6 watt rating as they are DD in high anyway and pull as much as your cells will give them.
Alright, so I drilled out the stock reflector (of course while trying to remove the metal shavings I blemished the reflector) so that the emitter could sit higher in it, which I think creates a much better beam (at least in my case). To raise the emitter up I got a different o-ring for the pill so that it doesn’t screw as far in. Obviously not great for thermal transfer as a metal bushing would be better, but it would be too pricey to source one at that specific size. I have to be careful screwing down the bezel as the reflector gets dangerously close to the reflector. Luckily I had a protected cell in at the time as it shorted out a few times while I was playing around with it. I really should bore out the reflector more, but it should be fine once set.
On the right is the stock o-ring, left is the new one.
And here is it compared to my MCU-C88 w/ XM-L (unknown bin and tint)
Your braver than drilling a hole so large. What size drill did you end using and what was the big difference to the beam pattern after the mod?
I have one of the raised tops which works fine, but beware that the raised top cell may be too long for other lights (such as the Cyclone C88) so take that into consideration.
-Garry
Before I could basically describe the hot spot to be splotchy as it was just behind the focal point. Now it’s more solid. Again, it might not be like that for others as their reflector may be able to recess further down. It might just be that my wiring/solder is too thick.
Hey guys. I’m digging the mods and the discussion. Obviously this is a winner of a torch, and instead of getting a C8 variant for my first thrower, I just ordered my UF HD2010 today, and I am pretty excited.
That being said, I don’t plan on doing any modding to mine any time soon (except maybe some better o-rings), nor will I probably be picking up any 26650s for now.
Am I still going to be thrilled with the stock HD2010? 
I can see I can make it better. But…it’s my first thrower, and I figure it’s going to be bad ass anyway.
Thanks!
Yes, you will be thrilled. The best mod is a pair of King Kongs.
Next would be if there is a “quick fix” to shut off the blinky modes so you do not have to cycle past them.
Well, a pair of good 18650 should work too
6 days here and can’t wait more S)
Thanks guys. In that case, I’m already thrilled. I have a couple pair of decent 18650s (Trustfire Flames and solarforce).
If the King Kings make that big a difference, I’ll certainly order a couple. Will my TrustFire charger charge those too? If not, it will be a little while, I suppose. Also, from what I can tell, the King Kongs are unprotected. I at least need a decent multimeter before I wanna mess with unprotected cells of any size. I have one on the way, but from China.
Leaftye, did you order from Tmart? My order said it’s shipping from the USA warehouse…I am expecting to wait only a few days… I hope.
Jaffo, you should get yours in roughly 5 days give or take a day. The kings won’t fit in my charger but I made a dummy cell from a dowel piece with a foot of wire screwed onto each end. On the other end of each wire I soldered a flat washer. I attach the wires to the correct ends of my Kong with small neo magnets and it works great. With this simple rig you can charge ant cell size that doesn’t fit in the charger and it costs next to nothing. 
I’ve been thinking of these as well. I have a kegos C8 clone. Looking at cells recently, the best I have - in that light, draw a little over 2a. Some cells only go 1.8 full and drop as the voltage drops. Does that mean that the light is direct driven?
I have a couple of Xtar 2600s from a deal on this list, some Tynergys from another deal, and a red ultra-fire from ebay. The red ultra-fire is the best, but nothing draws over 2.2a. If that light is direct driven then all of my batteries are crap and no light I buy will be better than what I have.
Is there any way I can tell if it is my light or battery that is keeping my c8 clone in the 2a range? (Some of the Tynergies start at 1.8 )
Thanks,
Wade
I think it was Erik on another thread who said he is able to charge his 26650s in the TF T001 charger with pennies on the positive end. Johnny, your idea is good too! That being said, I didn’t order the King Kongs because I wanted protected cells (being fairly new still). I ordered the TF flame 26650s today. We shall see if I need to buy a specific charger, or if the T001 will work. Thanks again!
Wade, is the problem really your meter? Are you using a decent multimeter with thick leads? When you say "Tynergys" do you mean Tenergy? I have 4 Tenergy 2600mAh 18650's and mine are awesome - give 5A with the direct driven Manafont Ultrafire XM-L drop-in. It would be odd that a red Ultrafire would be your best cell, but it could have been the luck of the lottery (I don't think you ever know the quality of the cell under the wrapper of those red Ultrafires).
Someone else will have to chime in on the diagnosis of the light being direct driven or not.
-Garry
My HD 2010 doesn’t work right. It wouldn’t light up all the time lastnight, and now I can’t get it to light up. The point in the tail cap that makes contact with the battery is very hot.
Edit:
I tightened both sides of the pill. I think it might not have been tightened into the head well enough. Also, the springs on both ends of the battery tube were flat. Flat enough that it wouldn’t make contact when tail standing.