Thanks for the update hoffig. My black HD2010 from Tmart didn’t have this issue. Oh well, gray one still very bright.
I have this light from T-mart, cost is 28$ shipped, and no logo on the light.
Unbranded black HD2010 arrived last week. Luvved it. So I ordered another one. 
They’re unbranded but they do have a “Cree” branding on one side. I’m going to stick with the 18650 batts because if they have no current regulation on High mode (“direct drive”) that may be whats causing problems when using the higher current capacity 26650s … (?)
Sorry to bump this, but I just got my grey HD2010 from Tmart, and it has no memory. Turning off for more than two or three seconds regardless of mode, when you turn back on it’s in high. This is perfect for a thrower, IMO.
Still, I might change out this driver since it’s DD on high and with a 26650 really overdrives (measured over 6A on a Ultrafire 26650). I would expect a King Kong 26650 to pop the LED pretty quick.
Unfortunately these manufactures are known for changing components between batches. 6A is huge! Mine only comes close to 4 and that is after resistance mods to both springs.
Unbranded gray one came today. No scratches, good machining, dry threads and pill was loose but happy to see centering plastic insulator so reflector cant short on emitter wires. Seems some versions of this light don’t have it. No mode memory and I am guessing its direct drive as I saw 3 amps on a 2 yr old 18650 trustfire with my old crappy analog multimeter. I like this light though, it seems like as good as version as any others and Tmarts US shipping is fast; just need more batteries now!
Watch out with 26650’s. I put a weaker one in mine and got 6A on the tailcap. There have been a few people fry the emitters this way. If you want to run 26650 you may need to mod or change the driver.
Thanks, I am close to getting some 26650 trustfires from Fasttech, maybe I will hold off. Seems some only get between 4 and 5 amps with one but I realize meters are all over the place too. Some have mentioned running hrs on high with one and no problems because what the emitter actually sees is lower because of going thru the switch? This light is so powerful I would like a lower low on it.
Mine came with no oring on the pill too? Dont know why you would want one as it would seem to lower heat transfer. Also some people are running theirs with the pill unscrewed slightly to bring the reflector tight down on the centering ring, I wonder if that could cause problems with frying some of them as it would have to transfer less heat than a fully tightened one? Mine seems to line up everything perfectly with the pill tight.
Wow! read wrong scale on my meter, pulling 5.5 amps! Meter seems accurate as my XPG pulls about 1.8 amps on it. Maybe I will change the driver before getting some 26650s
Okay, checked on a real meter today at work, Fluke 78. Stock leads got 2.7 amps. 10 gauge short leads got 3.2 amps. Ran straight 10 gauge lead from battery to tube and used Fluke true RMS clamp on amp meter and got 3.5 amps. Light would only stay on just long enough to post a reading. I think the protection circuit for the battery was kicking in at this point.
I dedomed my HD2010 and now the hotspot has a giant doughnut hole! How do I refocus the beam?
Now I have yet another light coming my way that Need does not apply to!
$30.99 shipped with no coupon, they say it ships in 24 hours so we’ll see.
I’ve already received notification that the HD2010 has shipped. Looks to me like a non-branded version they’re now carrying. Everything about it indicates the exact same light as the Ultrafire listed originally, only time will tell I reckon.
Looks great! Couple of blemishes in the finish from improper packaging, but what do you want on the cheap? The light is a great size, love the size of the reflector! Dropped in a high discharge 26650 LiNiMnCo 18A capable cell from Powerizer and it fired right up with a gorgeous solid beam, nice tint, great modes…the strobe is insane fast! Way too much daylight left today in my opinion! lol
Standing next to a Solarforce L2P with M3 head and SS crenelated tail cap it’s the same height, but with a larger diameter battery tube that fits well in hand and the head size is just ginormous! bigger even than a D Maglite! Was thinking about modding this with the newest XM-L2 series emitter and a higher output driver but I may have to leave this one alone for a while.
It’s got the Cree branding on one side, nothing on the other side.
Thanks for the heads up Johnny Mac, love it! (my wife is convinced I’ve lost my mind, too many lights)
I should have my 1st HD2010 (Grey Unbranded) from T Mart today hopefully! I’m really excited :party:
P.S my Wife thinks I have lost it but it is a lot cheeper than a lot of my other hobbies
Did you order this?
http://www.tmart.com/UItraFire-CREE-XM-LT6-8W-1300-Lumen-5-Mode-LED-Flashlight-Gray_p135765.html
I dont want it to have any brands, cree logo, T6 or anything written on it… And I want one in grey.
Pictures down low on the link I have shows a light with logo, sales pictures does not…
Exact same SKU number and all. Has the Cree XM-L T6 on one side, nothing on the other panel. Looks exactly as pictured, right down to the color. The package obviously had some moments, there’s a scratched up area on the bezel from contact, like it took a blow during shipping. The plastic clasp on the wrist strap is broken, so the nice wrist strap that exactly matches the color of the light is no good unless I’m able to patch it up somehow. The o-ring on the battery tube attached to the head is broken. I found I had one to replace it, not a big deal. But, a bigger deal is the way the pill interacts with the battery tube and reflector. The pill was loose so of course I tightend it. Then the light wouldn’t work. I took everything apart (it was filthy in there!) cleaned it, made sure the loose bits of aluminum from punching the wire holes in the pill were out of there (there was one bit on the edge of the driver, not allowing it to seat properly) Put everything back together and found it was flickery in the med and lo settings. So I adjusted the set of the pill, found that the battery tube is not seated against it when threaded all the way down so I stripped a heavy piece of copper wiring and laid it in around the pill to meet up with the tube, found a flat gasket to cover that so the battery couldn’t contact it (18A short? Yikes!) and now it works just fine.
Need to lube the threads and o-rings and probably solder that piece of wire so no strands will work loose. Can’t wait for it to get dark so I can see the throw on it, beam looks very nice in a darkened room. Looks like the hot spot is about the same as the M3 head on the Solarforce, but brighter, more intense.
And by the way, the spacer they include in order to fit a 18650 in it looks home made from a piece of pvc tubing, almost exactly matching the one I made for the 26650 cell to fit in a D MagLite. It’s even dirty, like it was an old piece of pvc that someone had laying around! lol The edges are semi-rough from the sawing action, not even sanded down. But it works, so I’m not complaining as it’s something I don’t have to do myself.
DBCstm, sounds like it was not the best flashlight you got. Maybe due to bad packaging…
The color from the review pictures looks good. The official sales pictures does not look so good in my opinion. (I prefer the grey color) Did yours have the grey looking color?
Yes sir thats the one 