It’s a very uniform grey in appearance. Looks very good. I’m not complaining about the appearance and small issues, it works fine now and the beam/tint is just awesome. Can’t wait for dark! 
I have this one already, and didn’t have those issues. The only issue I have with it is the direct drive is not friendly to the emitter with a 26650 (current at 6A+).
I have the TangsFire one from TMart on the way (looks about the same on the outside) and will report if it’s any better or worse than the unbranded one.
Do you think it will fare better using the included adapter sleeve to run an 18650 instead of the 26650? That should provide lower amperage and there’s some 3400mAh 18650’s out there now to keep run time up pretty good.
Well, it proves out to be the best thrower I have now when running the High Discharge Rate 26650. This is putting it up against a 1D MagLite XM-L T6 on a 32650 5500mAh protected and a Solarforce L2P with M3 head with an XM-L U2 on an AW18650 3400mAh protected. Could be the difference in cells alone, as the 26650 LiNiMnCo is 18A capable and unprotected. I’d hate to have that strobe direct in the face! Could seriously mess with a person!
Where the 2 lights listed above get the house across and down the road to appear ghostly, this one lets you see the house. 400 yds away. Impressive on a single cell!
I’ll get beamshots when I’m not coughing my tail off, hopefully soon.
Until I change the driver, I will only run laptop pull 18650 cells in it. Even with that, a fully charged one gives 4.5A. A new Sanyo UR18650ZT charged to 4.2V gives about 5.5A; too high for my comfort without a copper mounted LED.
I pulled the 26650 and put an RediLast 18650 2600mAh protected cell in it. Still lights up the house 400 yds away amazingly well. Gonna get me in trouble. 
I dropped my HD2010 from about three feet (onto a fairly thick rug on a tile floor) and it now comes on very, very dim. When I take it apart I can see nothing wrong so . . .
Too bad because it has been my go-to bright light from day one.
needsanother2010Foy
That sucks. Check the springs for compression, as well as the driver retention ring for tightness. I suppose a quick check of the tail switch resistance would not hurt either.
Mine was loose, everywhere. And it really mattered what sequence was used to tighten it up. I ended up putting the battery tube into the head tight, then screwing the pill in til it seated snug, placed the insulator over the emitter and carefully placed the reflector in to seat. Placed the lens on top, screwed the bezel on while watching to ensure the plastic centering insulator stayed in place. Now it works well. We’ll see if that holds up, but that little plastic piece can move around fairly easily, so a drop might have dislodged it.
Gonna have to do some mods on this one to make it perform like it’s capable of performing, for sure.
Foy? Well I'II Be. You ok?
The Solarforce Big Daddy light was announced and everybody was looking for Foy. Then look who came calling!
After reading most of the reviews on the HD 2010, I ordered one from Tmart. It is bright and will replace my very old 1st Gen Jetbeam RRT-1 Raptor.
I was happy enough until I disassembled the head and noticed that it doesn’t say XML on the LED, just CREE.
How do I know if I have got the XM-L LED in this HD2010 of mine? Any tests I can do? All I have is a cheap DMM.
This is my first post and I hope the image shows up.
Welcome to BLF, gasbag!
All HD2010 lights use an XM-L. What it says (or doesn’t say) on the star means little.
Take a look around on here and you can find pictures of the various emitters. I think scaru’s signature has a good link for this. Just find one of his posts (should be easy, he’s the top poster on here) and you’ll be well informed.
Edit: I just realized you tried to put a pic in from Flickr, which will not work without a direct link to the jpg. here’s the link to the pic That is definitely an XM-L.
I want to try mounting the led directing to a thicker copper pill and keeping the stock driver in mine, one day. Anyone done this yet?
Hello, Gasbag! Welcome to BLF! Am I correct in my guess that you are the same gasbag as on the DX forums? If so, you are quite active there, and I have no doubt you will love it here on BLF.
To your question, all HD2010 come with XM-L only (so far) but the simple way to confirm is to look at the emitter itself. The LED will look like the one below. The XM-L is 5mm*5mm (green base) and you will see 3 wires connecting to the phosphorous on one side with 6 panels on the surface. My pic below is not the clearest but it should get the job done.
You might want to left click on this picture, then right click on it in Flikr and select original for a screensized view of an XM-L, this one a U2 bin.
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Now that’s a great picture!
Thank you very much!
Inspiring me to get this HD2010, very nice….a bit of a problem getting it to work properly from the get go but now my best thrower and a nice solid little light that looks as good as it performs. Thanks for the write up and excellent pics at the beginning of this thread. Read the entire thing and jumped on board.
Thanks relic and DBC, I'll give it a try.
2010lessFoy
I had a good look at the LED and indeed it looks like it is the real deal. Didn’t realise you can figure out an emitter by just eyeballing it. Thank you guys for helping out.
My RRT-1 throws better, only just and only in the centre whilst the HD2010 lights up the whole area. I will see how it performs in real-life when I go spot-lighting for wallabies next. We shot >116 the last time.
Ordered one Trustfire 5000mAh 26650 from Kaidomain to see if the HD2010 is any brighter with this battery. Also ordered a KD C8 while I was at it - couldn’t resist at such a low price.
Thinking of modifying the RRT-1 to a better emitter but cannot get access to the LED. Might just have to use brute force but I don’t want to wreck it tho’. Not much info on the web about modding it.
I am not the gasbag at DX. Sorry JohnnyMac. It is just me.