Your photo of E10 optics tells everything.
The shape of that ‘mark’ is completely the same as I visualised how it would be looked after disassembling the top.
Mine looks exactly like this. It appears to be chipped. It doesn’t seem to be affecting the light, but I’m not 100% sure.
Two of my three tubes have rattling tail switches. In you pocket you can hear them click and rattle every once in a while. Does anyone know how to take them apart and make them ‘tighter’ so they don’t rattle?
Thanks
I also am missing glass in my E14iii, I didn’t notice until you mentioned it the other day and then I checked. I’ve send Manker a message but don’t expect them to reply until after the 8th. Hopefully they can just send out the glass.
As Martin already mentioned, MC13 is not very demanding in terms of current. Any battery that can sustain 5A should be okay. Samsung 29E for instance is a very cheap but great battery here. Concerning E14 III, the more powerful, the better. Best results will be achieved, e.g. with Sony Murata VTC5A, Samsung 25S or Molicel P26A.
Those batteries are all sold as short flat tops. Without additional spring pressure I would imagine you may not see the full gains from those low resistance batteries. Just my .02 though
I'm very sensitive to green tint so I got rid of it by installing a UCL lens and Lee 249S Quarter Minus Green Filter. Here are my measurements:
Manker E14 III stock lens
mid
141 lumens
4262K
0.0081 DUV
91.8 CRI
Blue light relative amplitude 1.00
66.7 R9
68.0 R12
91 Rf
98 Rg
included 18350 battery
Manker E14 III UCL lens
mid
141 lumens
4225K
0.0065 DUV
92.4 CRI
Blue light relative amplitude 1.00
69.6 R9
69.2 R12
91 Rf
99 Rg
included 18350 battery
Manker E14 III UCL lens w/ LEE 249S 1/4 minus green filter
mid
119 lumens
3914K
-0.0010 DUV
97.7 CRI
Blue light relative amplitude 0.98
88.4 R9
93.3 R12
94 Rf
102 Rg
included 18350 battery
Manker E14 III UCL lens w/ LEE 249S 1/4 minus green filter
Turbo
1,686 lumens
3983K
-0.0027 DUV
96.8 CRI
Blue light relative amplitude 0.98
85.4 R9
86.1 R12
94 Rf
103 Rg
included 18350 battery
DUV dropped a bit with the UCL lens and obviously much more with the LEE filter. Output dropped about 16% with the filter, which is not bad at all and is likely brighter and more efficient than SST-20 95CRI. On turbo it dropped closer to 18%. Without the green and a nice neutral tint, it is now a very usable light.
I’m pretty sure the E14 III has LVP, because it’s certainly behaving as though it does on mine. And even though it doesn’t say specifically that it has LVP, it does say
3. Low battery indicator:
Voltage <3.2V, the brightness level downshifts to Moonlight.
Voltage = 2.9V, turn off.
I missed that because I was searching the page for “low voltage,” appreciate your seeing that for me. That’s good news, an unexpected step down is an acceptable indicator of low voltage, but it would be nicer if it was listed in spec what it was doing. I am sure someone will take the time to figure it out and post the specific details eventually (like, that step down will occur at 3.2V or 2.8V or whatever, and light will shut off at xV).EDIT: sorry I didn’t read closely enough, have comprehension issues here… all the details are right there. I would call that LVP. Excellent. Thank you!
Okay so I will say first and foremost I like both lights and I am very appreciative to have been included in the group buy. Second how hard would it be to change out the switch with something that takes more pressure to activate. I use the clip and I am still several times a day lighting up my britches. I have a fw3a and do not have this problem.
Maybe it is just mine that has a very light switch? I could lockout or turn the body. I was just curious if anyone else had this happen yet. I really like the UI and overall design.