Well I am off out soon for the day so will have to pick this thread up late this evening or tomorrow depending on how many I have watching Wales v Scotland in the rugby :+1:
It will be interesting to see where this discussion has gone by the time I pick it back up :+1:
Imma guess its the same light and he took it off the x6 hunter. There are only a couple huge flashlight manufacters. Most of your companies choose from a catalog of hundreds of designs to choose from for the host versions. You have to think on large scale production turning out hundreds or thousands of hosts a day.
@KawiBoy1428 what do you mean āthermal mass missingā?
Argh I would really like to hold a Jax Hunter, too bad it is almost twice the price as the Elfeland S70s price
Yes, there is a sense resistor of less than 0.05 ohm which is about 3mm by 1.5mm. Tiny! If you add an R100 to it in parallel the load gets reduced to about 0.033. This boosts output of the light.
Some just solder a tiny wire strand or blob of solder across to change resistance to zero. This bumps up power a lot, but is quite a strain on the driver.
This is specifically on the L6 since I donāt have an S70 yet. Iām sure the S70 is almost the same. There should be guides to doing it on this forum and also show pictures.
I know there is info about this on BLF a link would be cool BH when you check back
Now that a new S70 is on its way I love to drop a bit of solder on the old one to increase output (I wanted to leave it stock since it is my most used light reliability ia important )
Since I donāt know too many specifics on the S70, would one of the Convoy L6 drivers fit in it if the stock one gets toasted? The L6 one is 30mm. You would lose the lighted button, but thatās minor compared to having a working light.
(As was mentioned, Thorfire wonāt sell parts for the light)
I couldnāt find a thread covering the resistor mod on the S70, but here is a link showing the resistor mod done on an L6. The S70 will be the same basic job, but with a different location for sense resistor.
Im really looking forward to this S70s arriving, I may have to try my hand at an emitter swap. A nice 4000k powerhouse would be awesome to go along with my L6 in 5k.
By stacking r100 and get values above 7 amp in tail with fresh liitokala, it is very easy to do remove ring, remove driver do not need anything else. :smiling_imp: :smiling_imp:
Ordered mine last week The tracking said origin country Sweden?? Ordered it from Banggood. Cant wait to do a complete mod on this light There tracking system is down, three days now, so itās a guessing game on its arrival time.
I thinkb-h may be on āholidayā till tomorrow. ā¦
But HERE is a link that will get you started in finding your answer to the āsolder blobā question.
It seems like there is a video somewhere as well as a thread on the complete process, but I canāt find it right now due to time constraints. When I do Iāll post links to them.
The link above should be a good start though. I hope it helpsā¦ā¦ā¦ ā¦ :+1:
Not so much, just a little patience and some tweezers, very easy there is only one important detail, welder well hot and brief periods to not burn components, greetings!
Wouldnāt it be safer to run a piece of copper wire to make the bridge? Solid core wire that is. This is who I watched do the mod. Canāt understand a word he is saying but can see exactly what he is doing. I just skipped through to the good parts