Link for purchase: https://goo.gl/AiUmbF
Coupon code: marui
For any other flashlights at regular price use : GB17LED
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If you have one please let us know what you think of it.
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EDIT: There is nothing in the instruction book about this but members pointed this out that you can program the light levels.
1. From the off press the button until it blinks two times. It will come on in high mode , and flash 2 times after 7-8 seconds.
2. After it blinks twice , release the switch and double click again. It will enter strobe , beacon etc and a constant current output level & regular modes.
3. Now navigate with single (short) click to the lowest mode
4. It will ramp through 3 different output levels . Single click confirms selected output level of mode and goes to the next one
5. Do the same for all the modes , and when you are in strobe turn off the light with a “long” click .
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(I copied most of these instructions from member giorgoskoks post, but dropped the first step as it was not needed)
Just received one. I really like it. Single AA with electronic side switch is one of my favorite set ups. Unlike the many that have complained, my switch functions perfectly. Too bad it doesn’t have “Dragon’s Breath” (oscillating blue lit switch cover) That would have been da bomb. :+1: .
I have 2 of them, a 6500k and a 5000k. Much more impressive if used with a 14500 cell. Love the fact each of the 4 light modes has an individually adjustable choice of 3 intensity levels (called “Hidden” settings). Meaning the torch has a total of 12 available non strobe lumen settings.
Nice Matt… Just watched your vid, good job as always.
Did you re-program your turbo mode? I am ~75% certain they do not program the brightest output for turbo stock from the factory. This also helps explain your ~500L measured turbo. Other members are measuring 650-775 on a cold start, before thermal management kicks in.
To enter the program mode double tap it from either ON or OFF.
It will strobe, but just single tap it a few times to cycle past the blinky modes:
Strobe-SOS-beacon-100% Turbo-Battery check-PROGRAM
The Program mode will look like firefly, but just let it sit there and it will cycle through the three outputs for each:
Firefly - LO/MED/HI (tap the setting you want)
Low - LO/MED/HI (tap the setting you want)
Med - LO/MED/HI (tap the setting you want)
Hi - LO/MED/TURBO (tap the setting you want)
When you finish, just double tap to lock the settings.
The most useful hidden mode is the battery check mode, unfortunately its buried deep under a bunch of disco flashers. Would have been REALLY COOL if they made battery check the first one in line. That way double tapping goes directly to battery check, and double tapping gets you back out. It basically flashes once for each ~25. 4 flashes=100, 3 flashes=75, 2=50…etc.
The clip is horrible and immediately damaged the anodizing…
It’s made of way too thick (stainless?) steel.
And once it’s on, it will not properly hold it’s position, let alone find it’s proper position in the first place…
Had i known, i would have thrown it away immediately.
Similar clip problems we find with the clips of many Astrolux lights, (which are also “Manker inspired”, but i assume Manker lights come with a better clip).
x2… I am not going to be taking this clip off any time soon. my E11 is a little scratched up. I was more careful with the UT01. Once its on there its pretty dam permanent. Actually, the clip position is the biggest difference between my 01 and E11… one tail up the other tail down.
*_From the off press the button until it blinks two times. It will come on in high mode , and flash 2 times after 7-8 seconds.
2. After it blinks twice , release the switch and double click again_*
Alternately you can just double-tap the switch from either on or off position. It will enter the strobe/flashy mode group, where you can tap past those and access the program mode… see my post above.
Thanks much to those of you who mentioned the programming. That was not in my set of instructions but its very good to know. In my case this didn’t boost the max output any, but still very cool. I did notice a slight smudge on the lens of my light which I’ve cleaned off, and also that my 14500 cell was at only 3.95 volts when I tested, so once it has charged and fully rested I will test again to see if any respectable difference is made.
Sure, no prob. that could be a sign of a defective switch… there are a lot of members whose lights have faulty / inconsistent switches. I got lucky and won the switch lotto on my lights. Good Luck!! Its a great EDC light if you get a good one.
I have prevented scratching when installing clips by using snap ring pliers. Just spread the clip wide enough (by inserting pliers tips in center ring of clip) to start clip on, remove pliers, then nudge clip with thumb. Goes on with out a hitch. To remove, insert snap ring pliers at clips end openings, pry gently apart and nudge off. No scratches. I’m using the straight attatchments on my snap ring pliers at the moment.
I really like mine (NW verison), I reprogrammed the modes to the way I like it and am running it on lowest to see how long it will go. So far 75 hours of continuous running on Duracell rechargeable (eneloop) and its still going. Very small and is convenient for carrying in your pocket, no visible PWM also sold me on it
Protected 14500’s are an interesting beast. I’d rather have a shorter cell with slightly less capacity, but which fits universally, than this type of dilemma. It seems like laziness on the part of battery manufacturers.
Another think that needs to be noted if trying to use protected cells in this light is they need to be capable of at least a 2 amp discharge. For example the Olight protected cells are only rated at 1500ma discharge so even if they would fit, it’s a bad idea.
